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Won't turn on

Whirlpool Dryer MF1306147 is the series number. Had to shut off power to the house for a fan installation since the fan seems to be freaking wired to the Heat Pump circuit. All breakers have been checked and reset, everything else including the washer that is on the same circuit as the dryer is working, but the dryer won't turn on. Is there some sorta built in reset button, or something that would cause the dryer to stop working?

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  • johnlayman11 May 31, 2009

    sorry, try LTE5243DQO

  • KEN LaPOINT
    KEN LaPOINT May 11, 2010

    can you clarify the model number of your dryer?
    I can't seem to locate a whirlpool dryer with that number...

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CHECK THE FOLLOWING----


1. No power to the dryer
Make sure there's power getting to the dryer. Check for a tripped circuit breaker or a blown fuse. Check the wall socket for power with a voltmeter or by plugging something else in.

2. Door switch / Door switch actuator lever
The dryer would not start with a broken door switch. Replace the door switch if found defective.

Most dryers have a door switch actuator lever - when you close a dryer door, it presses against the lever, which actuates the door switch. If the lever is broken, the switch would not activate and the dryer would not start. Replace the lever, if broken.

Note: Door switch actuator lever usually comes with the door switch assembly and it is recommended to get the whole assembly since there is almost no price difference between the door switch assembly and just the lever. Check your model for more details.

3. Thermal fuse
Most dryers have a thermal fuse, which burns out when the dryer overheats, in which case the dryer will either not run at all or stop heating. The fuse is usually located on the vent duct, inside the dryer. A blown fuse will show no continuity when measured with a meter. Before replacing the fuse, make sure the blower wheel is not broken or clogged, and there is nothing blocking the venting.

Note: It is recommended by most dryer manufacturers to replace a hi-limit thermostat when replacing a thermal fuse.

4. Timer
Replace if defective (note: uncommon problem).

Posted on May 31, 2009

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Dryer won't start - only beeps


If this unit has a timer it could be faulty. Make sure with the schematic in hand that all the wires are in the right spots on the motor. I did not post the model number so I am not sure what model you have but looks like a Whirlpool part number. If motor was running before you attempted to remove blade, this is a good one. If the motor relay is clicking but not turning that is almost like power is not were it should be. You can contact me here or reply to FIXYA with a response. Click here http://apcoappliancerepair.wordpress.com/?s=dryer+motor to see posts on dryers. I wish I could be more help. The first place I would start is with a schematic.

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I have a whirlpool dryer that won't start. I am renting and the owner doesn't know the model number. The power to the house went out and everything came back on except the dryer. I checked the...


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Jul 06, 2011 | Whirlpool LGV4634JQ Gas Dryer

1 Answer

MY DRYER WON'T HEAT.


This is usually caused by a blown thermal cut-off which blows and cuts power to the heating element due to the failure of the high limit-thermostat to cycle off and regulate the heating element temperature. Check the dryer for clogged lint screen and/or restricted vent system then replace both thermostats when either of them has failed. Both are located on the blower housing.

Click on the links below for the detailed troubleshooting of this dryer problem. Just follow the instructions that are applicable to your dryer since you did not specify the dryer's exact model number.

Troubleshooting Whirlpool and Whirlpool-made Electric Dryers (Filter on Top with Removable Back Panel) Running But Not Heating



Troubleshooting Whirlpool and Whirlpool-made Electric Dryers (With Bottom Panel) Running But Not Heating

Jun 17, 2011 | Whirlpool Dryers

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Dryer timer won't shut off at end of cycle. Dryer runs, but no heat. It is a Whirlpool model number LGR4634JQ2.


Since you say that the dryer runs but have no heat, plus the timer won't shut off the odds are the timer is bad. The timer would tell the burner when to be on and when to shut down.

http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?model_id=265840&diagram_id=28265980#d28265980

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Jun 09, 2011 | Dryers

1 Answer

Dryer was running normally then just stopped . I have some ideas about what is wrong but would like a second opinion.


The most common cause of a dryer that will not turn on, is a blown thermal fuse, defective door switch, bad power cord, or a broken drum belt.

If the voltage at the wall receptacle is correct, check the voltage again at the terminal block where it connects to the dryer. Make sure you UNPLUG the dryer and remove the the small access cover where the power cord is installed. You should read 220-240VAC at the wall receptacle and terminal block. If BOTH readings are good, the problem is INTERNAL to the dryer. If bad at the receptacle, you need to double check the power source that feeds the wall receptacle. Some homes use two separate 120VAC breakers instead of one 220-240VAC breaker. Make sure the breaker(s) is not tripped. If the reading is normal at the wall receptacle, but bad at the terminal block, replace your power cord.


If the problem is internal, the thermal fuse will be mounted on the blower fan housing. It is a small plastic looking component (usually white in color) with two wires attached to it. Disconnect the wires before taking any resistance checks. If the fuse is good, it should read something close to zero ohms. If bad, you will read an infinite reading. These fuses DO NOT reset and must be replaced if bad.
The thermal fuse is usually located on the blower fan housing inside the dryer. On the model number you provided, the thermal fuse is accessed by removing the toe panel directly below the dryer door. The blower fan housing is located directly behind the panel, with the thermal fuse mounted on top (refer to parts drawing at the website(s) provided below.



NOTE: If the thermal fuse is blown, it generally blows for a reason. This could be an indication that you have a clog in the ventilation system, causing the dryer to overheat. Do a thorough inspection of your dryer interior and the entire exhaust vent from where it exits your dryer to where it exits your home, BEFORE replacing any defective parts. Failure to do so, may result in repeated failures of the same parts.


If the dryer belt is broken, the dryer may still heat, but the drum won't turn. Some models have a broken belt switch that will shut the dryer off completely when the belt breaks. In this case, the dryer will not turn on at all. This is determined by your MODEL NUMBER.


Another cause of a dryer that will not turn on, is a broken door switch. An easy method to test the switch is to open the door and press by hand. If the dryer drum light is working, you should be able to toggle the light on and off. If the switch is found to be defective, it must be replaced.


HINT: Since your dryer WAS running, but suddenly stopped, I would suspect either a blown thermal fuse or broken drum belt. If the thermal fuse is blown, it generally blows for a reason. Kinked, clogged or poorly installed ventilation ducting is the usual cause. I recommend you inspect the dryer exhaust vent ducting from the point it exits your dryer, to where it exits your home and make sure you are providing proper air flow. Then, inspect the dryer interior blower fan assembly to ensure the fan is rotating, unobstructed, and the interior ducting is not clogged.



Replacement parts can be purchased at any of the following websites:

searspartsdirect.com
pcappliancerepair.com
appliancepartspros.com
repairclinic.com

All these sites are reputable and have competitive pricing, so shop and compare. The first three sites listed also have helpful exploded view parts illustrations that you can use to locate and properly identify any parts you may need.



These solutions are not all inclusive, but are the MOST common failure items. The more expensive options are a defective timer or drive motor. If you have any questions about any of these repairs, need troubleshooting advice or need instructions on how to access any of these components, please post back with your MODEL NUMBER and let me know. I hope this helps you.

May 11, 2011 | Whirlpool Dryers

1 Answer

Our Whirlpool dryer model #LER7646AQ0 will not start. Door switch checks for power with a power tester. Put new start switch in and still doesn't work. Do I need to use Ohm tester or will power tester...


This problem is commonly caused by a blown thermal fuse located on the blower housing. The thermal fuse is wired in series with the motor and the motor activates a centrifugal switch for the heating element when it runs. These setup makes the dryer fail to start and the heating element not to turn on if the thermal fuse is blown. The dryer seems to no work at all. Verify the condition of the thermal fuse by bypassing it and starting the dryer.

Disconnect power then access and bypass the thermal fuse on the blower housing. The blower housing is located on the rear left bottom of the dryer cabinet. Remove the rear panel to access the blower housing and so the thermal fuse.

jahn27_41.jpg

Bypass the thermal fuse by disconnecting the wires and connecting them together. Insulate them properly and plug the dryer back in. The thermal fuse is indeed blown and needs to be replaced along with the cycling thermostat if the dryer starts. Do not use the dryer with the thermal fuse bypassed due to fire hazards.


The thermal fuse and cycling thermostat are part numbers 3392519 and 3387134, respectively.

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1 Answer

I have Model # LER5636EQ3 dryer it all of a sudden quit working in the middle of a drying cycle. I Checked fuses in house all OK. Checked to see if other cycles worked will not start or make a sound at...


This problem is commonly caused by a blown thermal fuse located on the blower housing. The thermal fuse is wired in series with the motor and the motor activates a centrifugal switch for the heating element when it runs. These setup makes the dryer fail to start and the heating element not to turn on if the thermal fuse is blown. The dryer seems to no work at all. Verify the condition of the thermal fuse by bypassing it and starting the dryer.

Disconnect power then access and bypass the thermal fuse on the blower housing. The blower housing is located on the rear left bottom of the dryer cabinet. Remove the rear panel to access the blower housing and so the thermal fuse.

jahn27_41.jpg

Bypass the thermal fuse by disconnecting the wires and connecting them together. Insulate them properly and plug the dryer back in. The thermal fuse is indeed blown and needs to be replaced along with the cycling thermostat if the dryer starts. Do not use the dryer with the thermal fuse bypassed due to fire hazards.


The thermal fuse and cycling thermostat are part numbers 3392519 and 3387134, respectively.

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The coin is probably rattling against the blower fan. First, unplug the dryer or turn off the main breaker. There are live voltages present inside a dryer even with the power shut off. Then, follow these steps: 1. Take out the lint screen. 2. Remove the lower kick panel under the door. There are a couple of screws under the front. The panel should pull straight down then come off. 3. Remove the blower fan housing. There will be 2 to 3 screws holding it in place. NOTE: If you did not take out your lint screen in STEP 1 you will know why I told you to take it out. The blower fan housing won't come off with the lint screen in place. Once you have the panel off you will be able to access the blower fan, and anything else that as gotten trapped inside the housing. This would be a good time to clean as well. Reassembly in the reverse order of what I just explained to you. Good luck and I hope this helps you.

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