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Re: LG DUCTABLE SPLIT TYPE A/C PROBLEM
What you have left out is the thermostat and they relays(electrical) which are activated by the thermostat. Another point is the door closing button near the bottom right side mounted on the body of the fridge. Check it out too.................................sodeep
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Probably a faulty non return check valve, when the unit reaches pressure air in the delivery pipe is vented down at the pressure switch. If the check valve is passing back this will cause the unit to try to start against a pressure causing it to pull high amps and trip. If there is a constant hiss coming from the pressure switch when the unit stops it will be the non return valve. There should be a short hiss of air when units stops If there is no hiss at all when the unit stops it could be a faulty pressure switch. If it is a quick fix would be to create a small leak on the delivery pipe to vent the line down.
To get proper cool, keep the tips as follows: 1. Check air filter is cleaned. 2. Check indoor coil is cleaned. 3. Checkindoor blower motor is working. 4. Keep in cool mode. 5. Set temp minimum 3degrees less than room temp.6.Check compressor is working with correctpressure. Thanks. Helpful?
It could be that the input air filter is badly clogged. I might more likely be that the Non-return valve on the air tank input is not sealing properly and not allowing the tank to build up pressure. This valve is at the end of the main pipe runs between the compressor and tank. It could also mean (less likely) that the poppet valves inside the compressor cylinder head are not sealing properly. Other faults could be worn rings on the compressor pistons or a bad seal between the compressor cylinder head and block.
To check the Non return valve allow compressor to build up some pressure and then loosen union nut on Non return valve. There should be some air released at first but should stop if valve is ok. If leaking remove valve and check for dirt and clean. If valve still leaks replacement is the only fix.
Normaly on this units the problem is the PC boards if i'm not mistaken they have censors this censors give problems sending the unit to a Protection mode when the units works too hard sounds like thats your problem room 2 big and the High preasure presostat it's telling the unit to stop.
there are several test to be done and analysis on trouble shooting ac performance.if the ac run smoothly but insufficient cooling effect was taken after recharching factors can be obtain in poor performance of compressor,clogging of tubes mostly on capillary tube and expantion valve.this main factor
contribute on ac in sufficient cooling.compressor performance can check the on the discharge valve by mounting a hi side pressure gauge and check the lost compression effeciency.while the compressor is running if it can discharge a pressure higher than the operating pressure w/o losses on psg. you have good
compressor performance.but if can not maintain a operating pressure you replace compressor.if the compressor is good check the capillary tubing by purging and cleaning the system,obstruction can't expand the freon inside your evaporator,have a nice day don't forget to fix my rate.also recharge exact amount freon on the system don't exceed.poor refrigeration was the result,no cycle will occured.
The True TSSU-60-16 uses an oversized (134A) refrigeration system with air flow directed at the pans.... if the capillary tube is plugged it will NOT cool at all.. most of the time a restriction (plug) is at the drier where the capillary tube goes into it.. as it is smallest passage in the system...hope it helps
The unit is designed to run the indoor fanmotors continuously when in cooling mode on both indoor units (evaporators). The reason is that this circulates the air and the temperature thermistor or sensor is able to sense return air temperature and in turn start or stop the outdoor unit and compressor as required according to the setpoint temperature. The reason for either unit not reaching setpoint temperature can be a couple of reasons. A) Incorrect design - the unit may be too small for the application. You can calculate this roughly at 650BTU per square meter of room in a relatively warm ambient climate. Or secondly B) The outdoor unit has leaked and is short of refrigerant. You can check this when the outdoor unit is running by feeling the thicker copper tube on the right hand side of the unit. This should be cool to cold. If no temperature difference is felt, it is short of refrigerant. Hope this helps you. Goodbye