Question about Canon EOS-AE-1 35mm SLR Camera

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My film advance lever will not advance

The lever won't advance and sending it off to get fixed will cost just about how much it would to buy another used one. Do you know a way I can fix this faily cheaply? A camera store once told me that it had to do with an electromagnetic charge in the camera. Thanks for anything you can offer. advance lever won't advance even when film is not in camera.

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First check for corrosion on the two battery contacts, and that the lower contact is still spring loaded and moves. Be sure you have a good battery by inserting it and checking with the battery test button by the rewind knob. If the lights and meter needle are working you're getting power. Remove the bottom cover and you'll see an electromagnet under a whitish plastic cover at the rewind end of the camera. Pull the magnet away from the coil by rotating the L shaped metal lever - you don't have to remove the white cover. Sometimes the magnet gets sticky. That should release the shutter. If it's really dirty, it might stick again. Be careful if you remove the white plastic since the magnet has fine wires that are easily broken, but you can clean the magnet interface.

Posted on Jun 03, 2009

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robmcd27
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SOURCE: My film advance lever will not advance

Make sure the arm that slides into top of the film canister is engaged all the way. Sometimes, if it doesn't seat properly, it won't hold the film canister tight enough.
Also, check to make sure the little film advance cogs are lined up properly with the holes in the edges of the film. This is the problem 90 percent of the time.

Rob

Posted on Mar 04, 2009

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Advance lever is stuck. I bought new film and a new battery for my canon ae-1, loaded the new film, and took two shots until the frame counter read 1. the next day I advanced the film and when i pressed...


Like all AE-1's and related models, your camera is gumming up inside as the internal lubricant films are at least 25 years old and are largely dried-out.

The fix is to get the camera to a repair specialist for a CLA service (Clean, Lubricate, Adjust). As a one-off extra cost also get the foam light seals and foam mirror buffer replaced as they'll either be absent by now or will still be turning to a sticky goo. Modern foam is is different material and is will not decay like the old stuff.

A CLA and foam replacement definitely costs more than the residual value of the camera, but they're solidly built and have plenty of cheap high quality lenses so can still achieve results which compare well to even the best modern pro dSLR's. Get the work done and your camera will probably last until 35mm film ceases to be available. Your camera will also withstand conditions which you'd never dare risk a dSLR in.

Jun 27, 2011 | Canon EOS-AE-1 35mm SLR Camera

Tip

Stuck Film Advance in Manual or Auto Wind 35mm Cameras


I've been seeing a great number of posts from people requesting help with a stuck film advance feature on their 35mm film cameras (you remember "film", right?) Normally, there are just a couple of things you can try to fix this issue before you'll need to find a professional to repair your camera - if it's even worth it. On that note, a lot of people still have film cameras for nostalgia purposes but there are still some hold outs that enjoy film. Finding a repair shop for an older camera isn't impossible but they are getting scarcer. Google "FILM CAMERA REPAIR" and see what pops up in your area!

MANUAL ADVANCE CAMERAS:

There's a complex number of actions that must work properly in order for you to advance the film in your camera using the manual advance lever. Gears, shafts, bearings and springs come into play and like a clock, they need to mesh together or the advance mechanism comes to a screeching halt. Well, you'll be the only one screeching, most likely but you get the point. If any of those parts break or become unaligned, or if some foreign matter like dust or dirt gets into them, the same thing happens. However, there are sometimes a few things you can try that might prevent you from sending in your camera for professional repair. I caution you about opening your camera yourself unless it has no real value to you because the interior of a 35mm SLR camera is pretty complex, even more so that a clock. Chances are you'll do more bad than good. With that said, try these options:

Film Jammed - Won't Advance
Sometimes the film will jam in the canister, or in rare instances, isn't actually as long as it's supposed to be and can reach the end of the roll before the camera indicates it has. If you suspect this has occurred then push the film release button and try to wind the film back into the canister before opening the camera. If you don't care if the film gets exposed feel free to do this in the light. It's much easier!
At times the film may also pull lose from the canister and roll completely on the take-up reel. If this happens you'll need to take the camera into a completely dark room with the light-proof film container, remove the film manually from your camera, roll the film up and put it into the light-proof container, close it tight and then seal it with electrical or duct tape. Also let the lab know this has happened so they don't pop up the container and expose your film thinking it is still in the canister.

Advance Lever Stuck
If the actual film advance lever is stuck and won't move, about the only option you have is to open the back of the camera and be sure nothing has jammed in the gears or sprockets of the take up reel or film path. If that doesn't fix the problem try pressing the film release button, wind the rewind lever a bit and see if the advance lever engages again.

If the lever just flips back and forth with no tension at all then something inside has broken and your chances of repairing it yourself are almost none. Most film cameras are getting on in years and will just naturally begin to break down over time. There may be no option to even fix your camera unless you find a similar model for parts and send that along to the repair shop. Make sure you get the parts camera back as you may need it later! If you like tinkering and the camera isn't one you'd miss if you couldn't fix it, then you could always give it a shot yourself. You can pick up a set of jeweler's screwdrivers and pliers from the web or Radio Shack for under $20 and find old film cameras on EBay or Craigslist at a decent price. Just be sure they don't have the same problem as your current camera does!

Grinding Noise When Advancing Film
This is most often caused either by a broken part, metal shavings or dirt/debris in the winding mechanism. Again, if you feel comfortable doing it yourself and it's not an expensive collector's model, you can try to repair it yourself. Hunt down a PDF service manual for your camera on the using Google web (a lot of collectors share them) and it should show you how to remove the cover to see the winding mechanism area. Look for debris in the gears and springs and remove it with short blasts of canned air but be sure you hold the camera so any debris falls out and not further into the camera. You can also use Q-tips dipped in alcohol to remove any debris, but don't use water, and let the area dry completely. Once you've done this, you'll need to apply a light lubricant to the area but only if it was lubricated before you cleaned. Use thin white lithium grease or an oil or grease used by clock repair shops and apply it with a toothpick as you don't need much. DON'T USE WD-40! It will do more damage than help.

MANUAL ADVANCE CAMERAS WITH MOTORDRIVE ATTACHMENTS:

These are manual wind cameras like the Minolta X-700 or Nikon FM2 that have an attachable motor drive that winds the film for you. Pretty much the same suggestions previously noted can be tried with a couple of exceptions:
Check the batteries and contacts in the winder making sure they're clean and not bent or broken. You can clean battery contacts with a CLEAN pencil eraser or alcohol and a Q-tip. Blow any dust and debris out of the compartment afterwards.If you still experience problems remove the winder and be sure the coupling that locks into the bottom of the camera to wind the film is not jammed or damaged. With batteries in the winder and the power turned on, look for a series of contacts on the top of the winder that mate with your camera. Be sure these aren't dirty or broken as well. Using a paper clip, you should be able to short one or more of them to another to activate the winder to make sure it works properly.

When All Else Fails - A Bigger Hammer
If none of the previous suggestions work and if, ONLY if you don't value the camera for collector's value a firm tap might work as a last ditch effort. I once had an old Minolta SRT that locked up solid. I didn't want to bother with trying to open it up as I only used it for a shelf display so I took the lens off, used a wad of very clean, soft foam to hold the mirror steady and wacked it twice on the counter. Not enough to damage the camera body (or the counter!) but a good smack. Whatever was jammed came loose and the advanced began to work. As I said, I only use it for display so I don't know if it affected the shutter speeds, etc. but it worked and cost me nothing but time.

AUTO/POWER ADVANCE CAMERAS:

Newer "old" 35mm film cameras used a power winder motor to advance the film and **** the shutter. If you experience a jammed advance on these cameras, check the film path, sprockets and make sure they are clear and move freely, as I described previously. Try the film release button and see if that will release the drive as well. Another option that has worked at times is to remove the film, lens and all batteries from the camera (including any date/time battery) for at least a day or two to see if the camera will reset itself. This worked for me once with a Nikon N70.
As a last ditch effort, the table smack might work as well, but I make no promises and it's all your fault if you damage the camera beyond repair... or your furniture!

on Jan 06, 2015 | Photography

1 Answer

Everything seems to function well, actually, I've never used this camera. Got if off of ebay, so maybe I was gypped. Anyways, the film advance lever seems to be stuck. It only goes half way. I can put...


DO NOT force it. It's going to need to be opened up by a technician and checked out. It may, or may not be repairable (or worth repairing). Batteries will have nothing to do with whether or not the wind lever will function. It sounds like the camera has jammed on someone, so they sold it off (probably without stating that little issue). The Chinon cameras aren't especially high-end, you can probably buy 10 new ones for the cost of having that one repaired, but you'll only know by finding a shop and asking.

May 30, 2011 | Photography

1 Answer

Everything seems to function well, actually, I've never used this camera. Got if off of ebay, so maybe I was gypped. Anyways, the film advance lever seems to be stuck. It only goes half way. I can put...


If the lever won't advance even when there is no film in the camera, then I would say there is a problem. (p.s. You haven't told us the make and model)

May 29, 2011 | Cameras

1 Answer

I have a pentax 67 camera and the film advance lever is jammed. it will not advance without putting undo pressure on it which i am not willing to do. i have read many forums that have said this is not an...


Try pressing the film release button on the underside of the camera. This should unstick the advance roller.
If possible, replace the watch battery for your camera (inserted in the bottom, right by the teeny black button I mentioned above).
Change your exposure setting to Bulb exposure and back.
If all else fails, take your camera into the darkroom (or at least a completely light-insulated closet, bathroom, etc.), and pop open the back and recover your film. Hopefully you won't have too much wasted film on your hands.
Good on you, however, for not forcing the lever. Nothing good will come of that.

May 06, 2011 | Cameras

1 Answer

Pentax me super camera, not working wind on lever


The clip spring broke jambing the advance gear. by forcing, the tab on the advance shaft broke.
take or send your camera to a camera repair shop for an estimate cost to repair.
there are no new parts for this model so the repairs could be expensive.
there should be no cost for an estimate.

Dec 10, 2009 | Pentax ME Super 35mm SLR Camera

2 Answers

My Mamiya RB67 triggers and shutter lease lever works but film advance lever doesn't move. Trigger button fired several times but film advance still showing 1.


This is not the best solution as it indicates a faulty film back. The film should advance without resorting to activating the film-wind release lever. That is only for intentionally advancing a partially exposed roll of film. Make sure the multi-exposure lever is not engaged and that the counter does advance and the red mark disappears as you advance to an unexposed frame.

Nov 09, 2009 | Mamiya RB67 Pro SD Medium Format Camera

1 Answer

My film advance lever will not advance


Make sure the arm that slides into top of the film canister is engaged all the way. Sometimes, if it doesn't seat properly, it won't hold the film canister tight enough.
Also, check to make sure the little film advance cogs are lined up properly with the holes in the edges of the film. This is the problem 90 percent of the time.

Rob

Dec 25, 2008 | Canon EOS-AE-1 35mm SLR Camera

1 Answer

Shutter fires when film advance lever is used.


The problem you describe is common with the EM. I have one myself sitting on the junk pile for the same reason. The body is made of plastic and the plastic around the advance lever is a week point. Your body, unfortunately is not repairable. But there is good news. Because of the low cost of a replacement EM on E-bay (under $30), you should consider keeping your lenses and buying a new body (the standard 50mm f1.8 EM is superbly sharp for a low end lens). Since the EM lenses are interchangeable with later models, you could consider a later model used body. Many are selling for fire sale prices.

Sep 23, 2008 | Nikon EM 35mm SLR Camera

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