My clutch cover wont go on anymore.its as if the spring inside the cover is too small to slide back over the cluth wheel...,thanks , tony I am trying to follow the advise to take off the clutch drum to reset the brake. But how do I get the clutch drum off? Seems one has to turn the inner part clockwise, but how do I stop the axle from rotating? Albert
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Re: clutch cover wont go back on
Your cover probably won't go back on because the kickback/chain brake is on. Pull the handle on the cover back until you hear a click, the it will go on. As for removing the clutch, you need Poulan tool # 530031112 and an impact witha 3/4 socket. If you're just trying to reset chain break, removing clutch is not necessary, just pull back on handle as I said before.
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Hi Anonymous, grab your self some silicone spray or brake kleen and squirt a little shot into the rubber boot that covers the adjuster in the cable, this makes moving that boot up and out of the way much easier. With a 1/2" and 9/16" wrench loosen and back off jam nut, screw the adjuster in to obtain tons of freeplay at the clutch lever. Remove the left footrest. Remove the 4 torx screws holding the clutch inspection cover, remove cover slowly as not to desturb the large quad ring. Slide spring with attached hex lock plate from the flats of the adjusting screw. Turn adjusting screw counterclockwise untill resistance is felt then clockwise 1/4 turn. Put the lockplate, spring and cover back on and torque screws to 10 ft lbs. Replace foot rest and torque screws to 20 ft lbs. Next back out cable adjuster untill, by pulling the clutch lever with one hand and pulling on the cable with the other, you get 1/16" to 1/8" free play. Tighten the jam nut on the cable adjuster, slide the boot back down and your good to go. Good luck
Hi Anonymous, spray some silicone or brake kleen at the top inside of the rubber boot covering cable adjuster and slide boot off the adjuster. Back off jam nut and screw adjuster in to give excessive freeplay at clutch lever. Remove left foot rest. Remove large round clutch inspection cover, being carfull not to dislodge large quad seal on primary cover. Remove spring and hex lock plate from adjusting screw. Turn adjusting screw counter clockwise until resistance is felt, then clockwise 1/4 turn. Re-install hex lock plate and spring and clutch inspection cover and footrest. Back out adjusting screw on cable so that while pulling the clutch lever with one hand and pulling the clutch cable with the other hand you achieve 1/16" to 1/8" free play. Tighten jam nut, slide rubber boot back over cable adjuster and your good to go. Good luck
I had a Tri Z, and every time it sat the clutch stuck. I'm not exactly sure why your clutch won't disengage when you tighten the springs-I do know that the springs MUST be tightened to where the bolts bottom out for it to work. I do also suspect that running it with the springs loose has burned what was left of the clutch. The basket and inner hub grooved could be an issue. It would depend on how bad it's notched. They will normally operate fine with some notching. Filing down the basket is not recommended-you would have to take the exact same amount of material off each finger of the basket for it to work properly. I've done this only to get it running while waiting for a new basket and drive hub to arrive.
The main thing now is to get the clutch to disengage w/ the lever. Take the pressure plate off, and watch for the lifter to mave about 1/8" when you pull the lever. If it's not moving, or is too high, remove the lifter, the round ball behind it and the engaging rod out of the hollow clutch shaft. A small magnet tool works well.It may have gotten past the cam on the cable end of the system. With the rod out, turn the cable actuating lever back to the end of it's slack and reinstall the rod,ball and lifter. You should be able to turn the cable actuating rod with your fingers and watch the lifter come up. You can feel when the rod is in the right position on the cable arm-it should bottom out and lift within the working rotation of the lever. So if you get that working, put what's left of the clutch back together, tighten the springs and make sure it works.You will at the very least need to replace the friction plates in the clutch. The steels should be checked for warpage on a flat surface. If you can get .002 feeler gauge under the warp it's too far gone and they should be replaced as well. Most Yamaha clutches have a first and last friction plate that's a different part number when you order them, be sure to check that when replacing the plates.I'd get new springs as well, they're cheap. Good luck!
The clutch is dragging or the primary has too much oil in it. In either case, the transmission is almost impossible to get into neutral with the engine running.
To properly adjust the stock clutch, find the cable adjuster in the middle of the cable. Loosen the locknut and turn the adjust barrel all the way in giving as much slack in the cable as possible. Remove the derby cover on the primary cover. Loosen the locknut on the adjuster screw in the center of the clutch assembly. Turn the adjuster screw inwards until you feel a resistance. Do not force the screw. If necessary, back the screw off and adjust inwards several times to get the "feel" of what you're doing. Turn it inward just till you feel the resistance. Then back the screw back out 1/2 turn. Lock the locknut down and reinstall the derby cover. Go back to the cable adjuster and turn it outward until you have about 1/8 inch of freeplay at the lever.
Overfilling the primary will also make the clutch drag. The oil is up between the clutch plates and it acts like the transmission fluid in the torque converter of an automatic transmission in an automobile. If you look at the clutch assembly with the derby cover off, you'll see that the outer clutch shell is made of bright aluminum. Just inside that, the clutch spring is a darker colored steel. With the bike standing straight up, fill the primary with oil just up to the lowest point of that spring, no higher.
Warped steel clutch plates can also cause the problem you're having.
if it is in gear for sure and it doesnt move even with the clutch engaged maybe you are missing a piece inside the clutch like the clutch boss spring. or possibly your plates are worn so much they wont hook up. or you are using a very poor grade of oil. Dont take my absolute word for all these solutions but these may lead to some problems like that.
This is inside the casing cover. Just a lever for the clutch cable to connect to, a spring, The clutch release mechanism, a seal and a clutch push rod. The clutch release has a threaded screw for adjusting the clutch and a locking nut for the screw. The only other thing is a metal bracket.
What exactly is the problem? The lever is hard to pull? The clutch won't engage to make the bike go forward? The clutch will not dis-engage, the motor will not stop driving the bike forward? What?
the easiest way i have found to put the cover back on is to take the clutch drum off.now youn can put the cover on.reset the brake and reinstall the clutch drum.the brake loop gets in the way any other way.hope this helped,if not let me know and we can try something different.......
Slide the rubber cover off the adjustment nut on the clutch cable, loosen the lock nut adjust the cable until you have about an 1/8" play in your clutch cable at the lever. To adjust the clutch itself remove the derby cover, then the spring and retainer. Turn the post until snug and then back off a quarter to half turn, reassemble the derby cover.