Recently replaced nylon coupling that mounts agitator to machine. It stripped bolt backed out and the agi. came off. Simple repair, but new bolt seems to be backing out again. How do remove agitator? Easy to remove softener cup but past that will require some knowledge as to procedure so as not to damage parts. Need to get into agitator to examine the mounting couple and bolt. How? Also why would the bolt continue to back itself out.
Is there some other problem thnat is causing this that needs to be addressed? GE washer model WWSR3090T6WW top load.
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it probably means that it's stripped. it grips the spine and allows movement of the agitator. the transmission shaft may be rotating back and forth, but the agitator doesnt move properly. i would remove the coupling and take a look underneath it to see if it's stripped.
your agitator coupling underneath the agitator is stripped out,you need to remove the dispenser on top of the agitator then theres a 7/16" bolt down inside there to remove and the agitator can be lifted out to replace the coupler underneath
Number 310 probably is stripped out. Mounted under the agitator this is called a drive block/bell.I believe the part comes with a new bolt also. This plastic piece has splines inside that slip onto the tranny. Over time the splines wear smooth and the washer will not agitate. To get to it you yank off the agitator:
Hello, on the style GE washer there is an agitator coupling under the agitator that will sometimes strip out. To repair this remove the agitator by pulling it straight up and out. TIP: If you can't get your fingers under the agitator, you can slip a belt under the agitator and then pull by that, once the agitator is off you should see a yellow coupling held on by a 7/16 bolt, remove that bolt and pull the coupling up and off the transmission shaft. Sometimes it will be hard to remove and you might need to knock it up with a hammer. Once it is off you should be able to slide the new one back on, bolt it down and push the agitator back on. Thanks
depending how old you GE washer is will determine how difficult the agitator will be to remove. However, all GE made ( hotpoint, baycrest, some kenmore, moffat, mcClary, etc. ) washer's of the past 50 yrs. or so have agitator's that are pressed onto a drive block and need to be pulled off, sometime's by hand, sometimes by a greater force, i.e. "agi-tamer" or "hammer". ( of course the hammer method will require you to by a new agitator ). The "agi-tamer is a real tool which slides under the agitator and by way of being pressurized with "cold" water ( hot will burst it ) will push the agitator up off the spline/block...don't stand over it looking down or you'll potentially get "knocked out" ha ha !
Hope that help's. At least you know it does "pull off" and it isn't bolted in place.
Many washers produced by Whirlpool® use a small, relatively inexpensive motor coupling. It's plastic and rubber and is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. If this happens, you need to completely replace it.
Many washing machines have one or two belts. If a belt is broken or badly worn, you need to replace it with a genuine belt from the manufacturer. (Some washing machine belts are designed with special characteristics not found in automotive belts.)
If your washer was made by GE®, it may use a clutch for agitating the clothes. As the clutch wears out, it may prevent the washer from agitating well or at all. If the clutch is worn, you need to replace it. For this job, you probably want to hire a qualified appliance repair technician.
Many washer brands use a reversing motor. For agitation the motor runs in one direction, for spinning and draining, the other. It's possible for a motor to burn out in one direction and continue to operate in the other. If this happens, you need to replace the entire motor.
The motor or transmission drive pulley may be worn and unable to turn the drive belt. If so, replace the pulley.
The transmission could have either of these problems:
Older washers produced by Whirlpool® have a transmission with an electro-mechanical shifter. If the shifter becomes even partially defective, the unit may not agitate properly or at all.
The transmission may have a worn or broken gear, or some other internal problem.
If you suspect a transmission problem, you may have to call a qualified appliance repair technician to repair it.
The inside of the agitator--where the transmission shaft attaches--can become worn, and strip out the spline that allows the agitator to properly grip the shaft. Then the transmission shaft rotates back and forth as it should, but the agitator doesn't move properly. If this happens, you may need to replace the agitator and/or the transmission spline.
Agitator pulls straight up and off. (you may have to slip a belt under it to pull it..... a hard yank) Drive coupler is nylon part you will now see, held on by one bolt. Remove bolt and pull off. If it won't come off, just break it apart with a chisel, as you need to replace that part anyway.
Pull up sharply on the agitator to remove it from the shaft. Check the agitator mounting cup underneath it is probably stripped out. It is a replaceable part. If the agitator is difficult to pull up,use a old strong leather belt under the agitator and pull it off using the belt.
Your problem is the agitator coupling is stripped. Very common on your washer. Just pull up from the base of the agitator to release it. Lip your fingers under the bottom and work it from side to side while pulling up. The coupling is the brown plastic piece attached to the transmission shaft. Remove the bolt and oring. If that bolt is rusty or oring damaged get a new one with the new coupling. Sometimes the coupler is real stuck on the shaft. Becareful not to damage the transmission shaft or the threads for the bolt to hold the coupler if you use a gear puller.