Re: Washer fills continuously until it has overflown
I found this answer on Repairclinic.com. Hope it helps...
A defect--or an obstruction--in the water-level switch may mean that it can't tell the water to shut off. So the machine overflows. This switch senses the water level in the clothes tub. It's usually a diaphragm device with a small, clear tube attached between the switch and the bottom of the washer's outer tub. As the water level in the tub increases, the pressure on the air in the tube increases. When the pressure reaches a certain level, it activates the switch, shuts off the water, and signals the timer to begin the agitate cycle. You can either clear any obstruction in the tube or replace the water-level switch.
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It depending on exactly what your seeing that will determine the problem.
Does your washer start agitating and keep filling?? if yes it does start agitating and the water continuies to fill try disconnectiing the power and if it keeps filling what would be wrong is that the water inlet valve is sticking open and it would need to replaced
If the washer continues to fill and does not start agaitating would be a defective water level switch as you suspect it may be.If ya disconnect the power and it STOPS filling replace the water level(pressure) switch.
Hello, fill the washing machine with water and when the water is about 1/2 full of water,unplug the washers power cord from the wall outlet.if the water keeps flowing into the washing machine with the power cord pulled the "fill valve"(where the hot and cold hoses are attached to the washer) has mechanically stuck open and will have to be replaced. if the water shuts off when you remove it's power cord from the wall outlet,try plugging the washer in and out a couple more times and if the water stops each time the fill valve indicates as being good.
A quick test to split up your possible trouble makers: Let the washing machine fill with water and when the washer is about 1/2 full of water unplug the washers power cord from the wall outlet. If the water keeps flowing into the washing machine with the power cord pulled the fill valve ( where the hot and cold hoses are attached to your washer ) has mechanically stuck open and will have to be replaced. If the water shuts off when you remove it's power cord from the wall outlet, try plugging the washer in and out a couple more times and if the water stops each time the fill valve indicates as being good = on to the next trouble makers. The water level control is responsible for shutting off the power to the fill valve and redirects the power to the timer to start the washing machine running once the correct water level has occurred. The WLC itself could be bad. The WLC uses a hose that the water level pushes air into to tell the WLC what the water level is inside the washing machine...the hose could be pinched, fallen off of the tub spout, has a pin hole, clogged up with calcium or soap curd and the WLC cannot "sense" or "tell" what is happening inside the washer.
If just getting the water out is your main goal, this can be accomplished using a shop vacuum. Be sure to unplug the power cord before attempting any repair! Another way to drain a machine is to use a bucket. Put the discharge end of the drain hose from the washer into the bucket, making sure the hose end is higher than the level of the water in the washer, and slowly lower the hose and bucket until the water flows into the bucket. Raise the bucket and hose end back up above the level in the machine tub to stop the flow. Repeat until the machine is empty. Give the machine a try after removing some of the water as you may have tripped a limit switch and the unit may just be overfilled
Water level controls - The water level control is also know as a pressure switch, this is where you set the water level ( small - medium - large ). The water level control is responsible to shut off the power to the fill valve and direct that power to the timer so the washing machine can start up. The WLC has electrical contacts in it that sends power to the fill valve and when the WLC is satisfied the water level is correct the electrical contacts open power to the fill valve and send the power to the timer and the washer starts. Picture of thishere. How the water level control knows when it is time to shut the water off is, a air tight hose runs from the outer washer tank to the water level control. As the water fills the outer tank air is pushed up the hose, depending on which setting you have made ( small- medium - large ) is takes a certain amount of this pressure to make the WLC cycle over and shut off the water and send this power to the timer. If this hose develops a leak or a pin hole the washer can over fill as the WLC may not be able to shut the water off. The water level control can also break down and allow the washer to over fill as well. Testing a water level control or a fill valve can be done by using a Testing a water level control or a fill valve can be done by using a ohm meter or a volt meter.Testing a water level control or a fill valve can be done by using a ohm meter or a volt meter.Testing a water level control or a fill valve can be done by using a ohm meter or a volt meter. A couple of tips from readers (Thankx!! ): ~ If you have a loose hose on the water level control or tank end, use a plastic wire tie to help hold the hose tighter and make a tight fit. ~ The water level tube (tube that runs from the square box), access panel on the outer drum where the bleach tube also ends) from the pressure sensor switch (front panel) can become clogged. Or the two holes from the outer tub into this square box panel on the outside of the outer tub can become clogged. Either clog, I am told by my help repair guy can cause the sensor to think that there is still too much water in the tub and so will not allow motor to activate spin. ~ If the water level control contact is bad, it may also stop the filling ok, but not tell the washer to start agitating.
supposed to be a problem only with water level switch.
try checking the hose that goes from the bottom end to the pressure switch. if there is a hole or a crack or anything loose on the connection. if the pressure won't build up on the water level switch, it wont transfer the contacts to start agitating.
test the water level switch by pulling the hose from the drum end and blow unto it until you hear a click on the water level switch. this should turn your agitator so please be careful and watch out for parts moving rapidly.
Let me know how it goes. I'm still thinking and searching my repair manuals! Huuum Please remember to leave a rating!
KENMORE ELITE TOP LOAD
Washer stops, won't fill, rinse or agitate
• Check the following:
Is the power cord plugged into a grounded 3 prong outlet?
Is the indicator on the Cycle Control knob properly lined up
with a cycle? Turn the Cycle Control knob to the right slightly
and pull to start. Are the water inlet valve screens clogged?
Are both the hot and cold water faucets turned on? Is the water inlet hose kinked?
• Does the water level seem too low, or does the washer
appear to not fill completely? The top of the agitator is
much higher than the highest water level. This is normal and
necessary for clothes to move freely.
• Has a fuse blown or is the circuit breaker open? If problem
continues, call an electrician.
• Are you using an extension cord? Do not use an extension
• Is the washer in a normal pause in the cycle? The washer
pauses for about 2 minutes during certain cycles. Allow the
cycle to continue. Some cycles feature periods of agitation
• Is the washer overloaded? Wash smaller loads.
• Is the lid open? The lid must be closed during operation.
Washer will not agitate or spin with the lid open.
If the washer fills up with water and you hear the motor running but the agitator doesn’t move, the agitator coupling is the most likely problem. First pump the water out by turning the timer to spin. Once the water is out, turn the washer off. Now pull up on the agitator until it comes off (it may be hard to pull off). Now that the agitator is off, you can see the agitator coupling, reach down and try to turn the coupling. If the coupling turns freely, it is striped out and needs to be replaced.