Question about GE Monogram ZFSB26DRSS Stainless Free-Standing Refrigerator with Dispenser

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Ge side by side zfsb23 running at 53 degrees refrigerator and 29

The compressor is running but the unit is not getting cold enough.
i think it may have a refrigerant leak. suction line cool but not cold no tap to attach gauge. r-134 refrig. what pressure should i see.
i am a a/c tech but not familiar enough with refrigeration

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: GE refrigerator not cooling

on most refrigeration, the refrigerant goes to the freezer first and the tail end to the fridge. it is probable that the compressor is failing. compressors are quite hotg when running but not too hot to touch. if the compressor is too hot that also indicates failure. doubt it is worth repair

Posted on May 19, 2007


SOURCE: Kenmore Elite Side by Side refrigerator not cooling enough

it could be either gas problem or may be compressor is not working

Posted on May 14, 2009

  • 61 Answers

SOURCE: Refrigerator does not maintain 37 degrees

i have seen this problem before its the control board in the back the board is about 150 dollars and it goes every DING DING 5 years lol horrible design of the one that comes on the fridge every ge side by side has this problem  its very easy to replace but have to "ground" yourself before you touch the new control board meaning rub you hands on plumbing pipes, not pvc or copper
good luck if you got questoins let me know

Posted on Jun 08, 2009

  • 56 Answers


check to see if the fan by the compressor is working when the compressor is running if not you have the problem control board .....replace board

Posted on Jun 30, 2009

  • 14 Answers

SOURCE: Refrigerator and freezer running warm

Check and make sure fan in frezer section works should be able to hear fan slowing down when you open freezer, or find door switch and press and hold..hope it helps you..

Posted on Jul 07, 2009

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You said the compressor is running? Right? Check for the temperature of the suction line to compressor (line going to compressor from the evaporator coil) - it should be cold. The other line going to evaporator should be nice and hot.

If suction line is not cold, then the unit may have a gas leak and needs to be regassed. However, you need to first locate the leak, repair it, evacuate the system to make sure the fix is good and then refill with appropriate refrigerant. U will need to get a shrader valve to tap into the suction line, a leak detector, leak repair tools, vacuum pump, and refrigerant with manifold.

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I used a small can of r 134a in my 2007 Ford 500 still not getting cold. What next?

Some things to check:

1. Is the compressor running?

2. Is the suction (where you added the refrigerant) line cold or
at least cool to the touch?

3. Is the system set to cooling inside the vehicle?

If you had to add refrigerant, there could be a leak somewhere. One small can of refrigerant is not enough if the system is empty. It will take around 5-6 one pound cans. However, the system should should be leak tested otherwise the newly added refrigerant will leak out.

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You can tap the suction line coming from the freezer or tap the process tube on side of compressor. The discharge line is what goes to the condenser coils. If the refrigerator hasn't lost Freon yet I do want you to be very careful. The suction side if working properly will pull air inside the sealed system if the gauge and lines coming from your gauges is not purged properly.
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Compressors have 3 or 5 tubes coming out of the can. Probably 3 in this case. The largest is the suction and the smaller one is the hot gas line. The 3rd is crimped and brazed over. The suction line should be cool or cold (no frost or ice) and the small one should be hot. Be careful of fans. Also, that small line is normally hot enough to burn you. If they are the same temperature, its either low or out of refrigerant (Very common), the liquid line could be plugged (Rare), or the compressor is not pumping (also rare). From here on, you need a compound refrigeration gauge and a line tap. An amp probe would be nice but not needed at this point. If you have an amp probe and the compressor is running and not pumping, the amps will be lower than the name plate RLA or FLA by quite a bit. The name plate should tell you what type of refrigerant it takes. 134A is the new standard but it could be different (R12). Knowing the right type is a must. I have seen compound gauges, line taps, and R134A in hardware stores but you can't add any refrgerant on less your sure no air has gotten in. If the pressure in the suction line matches up close to the ambient temperature when the compressor is off, it has refrigerant. With the gauge on the suction line, start the compressor. If the gauge drops into a vacuum of 25 inches or more, the compressor is probably OK but the refrigerant is gone. If the leak is on the suction side, there will be air in the system. The moisture in the air will freeze immediately at the metering device and it wont get cold. If it all leaked out its another whole process to find and repair the leak, evacuate the system and weigh in the proper charge. I hope this helps. There is a whole process for all of this. Let me know if you have the equipment. I'll get you through.

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Fridge gets cold air from freezer to cool it. Your freezer is fine but not enough cold air is getting into fridge compartment. U have some dampers or louvers that direct air flow to fridge and if they are not set properly cooling will not be adequate. Check those out.

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My ge GSS22WGMCBB is not getting cold eonough - frig reads 60 degrees, freezer reads 38 degrees. What can be wrong? It's 10 years old...should I get it fixed or replace it?

either the compressor isn't running due to a faulty PTC overload relay on the compressor body or a bad compressor itself,you can test the compressor with an ohmmeter between the 3 terminals on the side of the compressor PTC is mounted,if its ok then it can be a defrost problem where its not melting the evaporator ice and blocking the cold air flow remove the inner rear wall of the freezer and test the defrost heater located below the evaporator coil as G.E. defrost heaters are notorious for failing,if its ok,then the defrost terminator on top of this coil can be bad(open)to test this component it needs to be below 15 degrees temperature to show good(closed) if ok then the mainboard located in the rear back of the unit can be defective because it controls all the units functions

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I have a samsung 1 year old fridge that wont get cold at all. the compressor, evap and condensor fans all run and i installed a schrader valve on low side to try to vacuum and charge with no luck. it

Compressor should rapidly bring pressure down from standing pressure to running pressure when switched on. If no change, compressor not pumping. Make sure the line tap valve isn't leaking, and the gas you used was correctly charged.

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Refrigerator runs but does not cool properly. Temp in freezer is 34 degrees, temp in refrigerator top is 70 degrees, and at bottom is 55 degrees.


Many times a freezer and/or refrigeratordo not work right because of a dirty condenser coil...there are also many otherthings that can go wrong. If you are hearing a clicking or buzzing thencheck out the last two tips.

If your refrigerator is running but warm, then...

Check out these tips that I wrote about that... it is a great place to starttrouble shooting your unit...and something that you can do rather then callinga repair person to do a simple thing for you...

Refrigerator Condenser Coil Cleaning Refrigerator Repair

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1 Answer

I have a Duo Therm Quick Cool High Efficiency by Dometic in my trailer. The air conditioner is blowing air and not cooling. The compressor seems to be working, do these units leak freon and if so, does...

Any refrigeration unit 'can' leak, and 'no' that does not 'usually' mean you need a new unit. "Never say Never."

Actually, a 'refrigerant leak' is a fairly rare occurance and I would suspect that you probably do not have one.

You say 'the compressor seems to be working.'

Is it running?

Note; a good way to tell if the compressor is running is - by hearing it's distinctive 'rumble sound' when it's running - or by feeling of the compressor with (a) a screwdriver pressed against it to feel the viberation or (b) by holding your hand (be careful if you do this - it could be hot) against the compressor to feel if it's running or not. NOTE: ALWAYS BE EXTREMELY CAREFUL PUTTING YOUR HANDS INTO AN AIR CONDITIONING UNIT THAT HAS "LIVE POWER."

Once you've established that it is running - you can 'kind of sorta' determine how well it's running by the 'coolness' of the air coming out (which you've already said was not cool) or by feeling of the suction line (the bigger of the two copper lines going into the compressor/usually wrapped in black insulation). The suction line should be 'cold' to the touch (note: if it's wrapped in insulation - just peel back enough to get your fingers on the line to feel how cold it is).

I'm guessing your compressor is 'not running' and you are thinking it's running because the fan motor is running and hiding the distinctive sound of the compressor.

If it's not running then you are dealing with an 'electrical/control problem, or an internal (mechanical/electrical) problem with the compressor, in which case you will probably need to consult with an Air Conditioning serviceperson.

If - the compressor is running 'and not cooling' then you probably do have a leak - which also will require a serviceperson to 'find the leak and repair it - and then re-charge the unit.

Note: Things you might do "if the compressor is not running."

1. turn off all power and check for 'wires burnt off any connections - especially the compressor terminals.'

2. make sure both coils, (evaporator/condenser) are clean and you have good air flow
across both of them.

3. make sure your compressor - capacitor is good. Note; about the only way you (layman) can determine this is 'if it (capacitor) is 'bulged.' If it is - then chances are it's defective.

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