I used the toaster for lunch, but not a single coil would light for dinner. The timer did operate for a while, but eventually failed. I called the service number, and the woman I talked to said it was an electrical problem. She said we should ship it. But I should contact this site first.
I had the same problem, and replaced the thermal fuse, (that suspiciously went out shortly after the warranty expired). Since then, it's been going strong for the last couple months. The fuse itself is $2-$5 but will require time, tools and patience. Here are some links:
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This can be due to three reasons:
1. It can be fault in the wire to the oven, if the plug is faulty or the wire has opened out.
2. Secondly if the switch to activate the heating coil is bad it will not connect the power to the coil
3. Finally if the coil is OPEN , then it can be checked using a multimeter as also the wire connection to the heating coil.
Hi there. I just repaired mine. The wire connected to left side (as you are looking at the front of the toaster) of the front top heating coil had come off. I replaced all four of the crimps going to each side of each of the top two heating coils as well as the wire going between the front and back coils on the left side. Make sure that you use HIGH TEMP crimps and HIGH TEMP wire. I had the crimps and purchased the wire from a ma and pa repair shop here in my town
The problem is most likely the timer switch. They are very poorly made and tend to overheat causing eventual failure. B&D will be of no help and you will not be able to find the original switch. There is a switch made for Delonghi ovens that will work if you need a timer. The part # is 5218104600 and can be purchased for $10.98 at the Gourmet Depot website. This switch has a toast timer only if you turn it clockwise and turn counterCW for oven ON. Timer is only about 13 minutes. There is another switch that has a 120 minute timer. It looks the same and the part # is Delonghi 5218101800. May be harder to find. Another solution and a much cheaper one is to replace the broken switch with a single pole single throw toggle switch rated for 20 amp's at 120 volts. You will need to turn the oven on and off manually and you will no longer have a timer but at least you will be able to use your oven!
Your problem is very likely the timer switch. They are very poorly made and they have a high failure rate. B&D should have a recall on these switches. It's likely a DKJ/1-60 timer switch. They make a very poor electrical contact which causes the switch and possibly the wall plug to overheat. Mine melted the wire insulation at the switch and failed. These switches are impossible to find fortunately because they are all subject to the same failure. There are a couple timer switches made for Delonghi ovens that will work in the B&D and other ovens that use the DKJ/1-60 timer switch. One is part # 5218104600 which works the same as the B&D switch but it only has about a 13 minute toast timer. Turn it counterCW to turn the oven on. There is another switch with a 120 minute timer which is part # 5218101800 but may be harder to find. The 13 min timer switch can be purchased for $10.98 at Gourmet Depot website. Another solution is to replace the bad switch with a single pole single throw toggle switch rated for 20 amp's at 120 volts AC. You will no longer have a timer and you will need to turn the oven on and off manually but at least you will be able to use the oven and the switches are under $10 and much safer than timer switches.
Your timer switch burned out. The timer is manual and will tick even unplugged. Delonghi switches are available at The Gourmet Depot website or search "small appliance parts" for other places that sell the switches.
With mine, the toaster function stopped working. The light lit, but the relay did not click. This happened about a year ago, but then it started working again. Now that my waranty expired, it seems permanent.
The relay requires 12V, but I only measure 5V (no audible click). When I pulled the relay, the drive went up to 12V, so the coil is loading down the source. Not sure whether the problem is the coil or the source. It would be nice to find a schematic. When I put the relay across a car battery, I heard the click indicating that the relay is working.