After using the toaster at lunch time, the coils failed to light for dinner. The timer was still working, but, eventually, that failed too. I called a service number, and the woman I talked to said it was an electrical problem, and that we should ship it. But I thought I should do this first.
Hey, I once had the same problem, but then we discovered that one of the electrical cables had split, or it could just be the age of the Toaster. Try to take it apart and look for were the main cable spits up. Then go from there. If it is not visable, then the problem may be in the main cord. If none of these suggestions work, I suggest that you take it to your local electrical store.
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I found one of these on the curb. Took it home, and it was completely dead as you described. Took it apart, and there's a thermal fuse mounted above the convection fan that had blown. According to the data sheet, the fuse blows at 240C, but even if it never sees that temperature it will still fail eventually if exposed to high enough temperatures. The fuse is mounted against the chamber where it will get hot, so basically these ovens are designed to have a finite lifetime.
Anyway, long story short, you can buy replacement fuses online for a few bucks. It's a SEFUSE SF240E. Or just bypass the fuse. Keep in mind that the fuse is a safety feature that will kill the oven if it overheats, so keep that in mind if you decide to bypass it.
The problem is most likely the timer switch. They are very poorly made and tend to overheat causing eventual failure. B&D will be of no help and you will not be able to find the original switch. There is a switch made for Delonghi ovens that will work if you need a timer. The part # is 5218104600 and can be purchased for $10.98 at the Gourmet Depot website. This switch has a toast timer only if you turn it clockwise and turn counterCW for oven ON. Timer is only about 13 minutes. There is another switch that has a 120 minute timer. It looks the same and the part # is Delonghi 5218101800. May be harder to find. Another solution and a much cheaper one is to replace the broken switch with a single pole single throw toggle switch rated for 20 amp's at 120 volts. You will need to turn the oven on and off manually and you will no longer have a timer but at least you will be able to use your oven!
The magnetron has failed. This is the part of the oven which produces the microwaves and they can fail without warning at any time after they leave the factory. Failures are not as common as they once were, but unless the oven still qualifies for a warranty repair it's always more cost effective to scrap the oven and buy a new or used replacement.
In your case, you may be able to recoup some money by selling your oven purely as an electric fan oven with grill. The magnetron failure does not in any way indicate that the grill or fan oven are about to fail.
If you do decide to replace the magnetron, make sure that a new microwave gasket is fitted as well; this is a small wire mesh doughnut (US= donut) which fits around the neck of the magnetron and is crushed into place when fitted. Once used they cannot safely be re-used.
the part (element) cannot be bought , its connectors are welded into place ........ if you realy love your oven , you can get one by shopping in a goodwill store for a used oven and cut the element out and cut and weld the element into your oven ........ this does work ,i have done it
The contacts for these toasters fail. The plasic cam that depresses the contacts also can melt. The design is poor and no replacement parts are available. When selecting a setting, if the selection is not exactly perfect, the contacts arc and eventually fail. Unless cuisinart changes the selection cam to a solid state or relay, this failure will continue to happen during normal use. If your unit works properly do not switch the function setting while heating, this will cause the contacts to arc and erode the contact surface. This posting is applicable to the TOB-30BC, TOB-30BCC and probably all TOB-30XXX models.
I had the same problem, and replaced the thermal fuse, (that suspiciously went out shortly after the warranty expired). Since then, it's been going strong for the last couple months. The fuse itself is $2-$5 but will require time, tools and patience. Here are some links:
With mine, the toaster function stopped working. The light lit, but the relay did not click. This happened about a year ago, but then it started working again. Now that my waranty expired, it seems permanent.
The relay requires 12V, but I only measure 5V (no audible click). When I pulled the relay, the drive went up to 12V, so the coil is loading down the source. Not sure whether the problem is the coil or the source. It would be nice to find a schematic. When I put the relay across a car battery, I heard the click indicating that the relay is working.