Installing a 10uf capacitor along a speaker wire, no sound
I am installing a 10uf 50 volt electrolytic capacitor in series along a set of speaker wire. I cut the positive wire and stripped both ends... then coiled each wire from the cap around each end of the stripped speaker wire. I am getting no sound out of my speaker. When I us a **** connector to patch the speaker together, the speaker works. Is there anything I am missing? Is the voltage to low?
I think my head unit (Pioneer DEH-5000UB) puts out 4 volts.
An expert who has achieved level 3 by getting 1000 points
An expert that got 20 achievements.
An expert that got 10 achievements.
An expert that got 5 achievements.
Re: Installing a 10uf capacitor along a speaker wire, no...
Way too low!! Your cap should be up in the 200mFd range. CLICK HERE for a calculator - since it in unclear whether you are using a component set as in the selected item - or a single speaker. put your impendence in of the woofer, and the crossover frequency you are wanting to achieve.
Then use the first or second order cap. value.
Thanks for using fixya - a fixYa rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of.(from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones)
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. Goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
A) FOLLOWING Anti-Static Precautions? If you, or someone who had the board before you didn't, you can use it for a Frisbee now.
(WOW! Look at that thing GO!)
B) Processor installed with Heatsink, and fan hooked up; and Ram Memory installed -> ONLY; you should get BIOS Beep Codes, and maybe Error Codes; plus the BIOS Setup screen. (Hooked to VGA monitor. No AGP graphics card used)
C) Look at the Electrolytic Capacitors on the motherboard. (Radial Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors to be exact)
Scroll down. Look under -> Dimensions - to get the physical size you need.
D) Power Supply: Whip out your multimeter, and with the Function knob set to DC Voltage, check the 3 main voltage power rails. (If just a symbol, the symbol is a dotted line over a solid line)
Check at the 20-pin ATX main power cable connector.
I use a straightened out paperclip, and insert down into the back of the 20-pin ATX main power cable's connector. The BACK is where the wires go in.
The straightened out paperclip is inserted down into the socket hole, in the Back of the connector; and slides past the insulation of that wire. It MUST touch a metal terminal at the end of the wire.
Every wire going down into that ATX main power cable's connector; ends in a female Molex metal terminal.
Orange wires are 3.3 Volts. Red wires are 5 Volts. Yellow wires are 12 Volts. Black wires are Ground wires.
ALL Orange wires end in ONE central pint in the Power Supply. This is the 3.3 Volt power rail. You can test ANY Orange wire, and test the entire 3.3 Volt power rail.
Same with the Red 5 Volt wires, and Yellow 12 Volt wires. Pick one to test.
Paperclip in Positive socket hole, in 20-pin ATX main power cable's connector. Plus paperclip in ANY Black wire socket hole.
3.3 Volt, 5 Volt, and 12 Volt wires are POSITIVE wires.
Positive (Red) probe lead of multimeter touches Orange, OR Red, Or Yellow wire - paperclip. Negative (Black) probe lead of multimeter touches Black wire paperclip.
Worried about shock? Naa. The dangerous voltage is contained in the case of the Power Supply. 100 to 240 Volts AC.
The Power Supply converts this AC voltage into the low DC Voltages stated above. In comparison two D cell flashlight batteries produce 3 Volts DC.
NOT saying there may not be a spark! Connect a wire to a flashlight battery, and touch it to the bulb, and there is gonna be a spark. Just the way electricity works.
This is why I suggest for those who are new at this; to have the Power Supply unplugged from power; and insert two straightened out paperclips, in the socket holes of the ATX main power cable's connector.
Then (Making sure they don't touch each other), plug the Power Supply into power, and touch the paperclips with the probe leads of the multimeter.
Tested 3.3 Volt power rail? (Orange wire) Then unplug the Power Supply from power, and move the paperclip over to a Red wire socket hole. Test for 5 Volts.
Same again for the 12 Volt power rail. (Yellow wire)
Or use a KNOWN to be good, Compatible power supply; for a test unit. Perhaps there is a working computer you can borrow one from.
For additional questions please post in a Comment. Regards, joecoolvette
[Are you sure the Ram Memory is plugged in tightly? CANNOT just visually inspect. Remove, and reinstall to be SURE.
Are you sure the Ram Memory is the correct Frequency Rate? ('Speed') Ram Memory typically operates at HALF of the Processor's Front Side Bus. (FSB) ]
I use a straightened out paperclip, stuck down into the Positive wire's socket hole, in the Back of the ATX main power cable's connector. The back of the connector is where the wires go in.
[The 3.3 Volt wires, the 5 Volt wires, and the 12 Volt wires; are the Positive wires. ALL Black wires are Ground wires, or can be said as Negative also ]
The Straightened out paperclip is an extended probe lead, for the multimeter. It must slide down next to the insulation of the wire, and Touch a metal terminal.
EVERY wire going into the ATX main power cable (20 or 24-pin), ends in a metal female terminal. This female terminal slides over contact pins on the ATX main power cable's connector, on the motherboard.
20 or 24-pin ATX main power cable is plugged into the motherboard, as shown in the photo to the far right.
Straightened out paperclip is inserted down into the socket hole, with any Orange wire in it. Pick ANY Orange wire. It is slid RIGHT NEXT TO the Orange insulation of the wire, until it touches the metal female terminal.
Now another straightened out paperclip, is inserted down into the Back of the ATX main power cable's connector, (Where the wires go in), down into a socket hole with ANY Black wire in it.
Down into the socket hole, RIGHT NEXT TO the insulation of the Black wire, and touches the female metal terminal.
Power supply is plugged in. Positive (Red) probe lead of multimeter touches straightened out paperclip in Orange wire socket hole. Negative (Black) probe lead of multimeter touches straightened out paperclip in ANY Black wire's socket hole.
[Multimeter function knob is set to DC Voltage. If just a symbol, the symbol is a dotted line over a solid line ]
You should be reading very close to 3.3 Volts.
Pick an Red wire, and Black wire; look for 5 Volts. Pick any Yellow wire, and Black wire; look for 12 Volts.
When a computer won't stay powered up, and it's a motherboard problem, the Electrolytic Capacitors on the motherboard are the problem.
The ones used are Radial design. Radial Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors. They have an Electrolytic paste inside that goes bad, when they are failing, or have failed.
Newer designs of capacitors used are now Solid capacitors. Type used now is of Polymer design. Solid Polymer capacitor. Tantalum was the fore runner.
When these babies go bad you know it. They explode like miniature hand grenades. Shrapnel sprays inside the computer case.
So if you have a problem with capacitors on a motherboard, it will more than likely be Electrolytic Capacitors.
Computer design engineers know that the Electrolytic Paste inside an Electrolytic Capacitor, breaks down over time. It is a chemical, and has a chemical breakdown.
Due to this they use a capacitor that is rated at Twice, what is needed. Or can be said as 200 percent. This way when the capacitor breaks down to 50 percent good, it is still 100 percent good for the circuit it is in.
So yes, it is highly feasible to replace capacitors, and have a working motherboard again.
[ To go deeper in case you are interested; Capacitors on a motherboard are used as Filters, and Voltage Regulators.
The ones used as voltage regulators, are in the motherboard voltage regulator circuit,
I didn't suspect that the fault came from the speakers but in the unit itself. This kind of symptoms indicated of faulty electrolytic capacitor in the power supply section and/or in the sound output circuitry. To isolate it, you must have a capacitor checker to determine its condition or you may replaced all the electrolytic capacitor in your unit because this is only few in the set and very cheap price per piece. Just remember that you must replaced it with same capacitance and working voltage that is labelled in the body. Also, upon installing, you must check the polarity (positive and negative side) to avoid further damaged.
Also, check for bad solder joints(crack/dried/cold solder) in the board, it will produced the same symptoms.
Hope I helped you.
Have a nice day!
Thanks for using Fixya.
We used to use what we call bass blocker capacitors on the component speakers to block the bass coming from the head unit and to allow the bass to only come from the subs...there is several values of these capacitors that you can use(different values correlate to different frequencies). These type of capacitors are available at Radio Shack. You will need to request a NON-POLARIZED Electrolytic capacitor at a voltage rating of not less than 25 Volts...As for the value of the microfarad rating..you may need to experiment with different microfarad values to get the sound you desire...standard microfarad values are 1uF, 2.2uF, 3.3uF, 4.7uF, 10uF, 22 uF, 33uF, 47uF.
You probably won't need to go any higher on the value than those listed....in my experience, I have found the 4.7uF and 10uF to be good for most speakers...to install these...you need to put one inline with the positive lead to each component speaker.
If you are using the low input to put high input in you can use a 22k resistor and a 10uf capacitor connected in series to the plus side of the speaker wires. This will bring down the signal level from the speaker to low input level and you will have a nice distorted free music.
Get 10uf/16v radial lead 105 deg caps. Cut the leads short so they fit under the shield and give them a bend like the letter L when you solder them on the pads. These caps are easier to use than the original surface mounts and much better. Be very careful removing the old caps as not to lift the pads to which they are soldered. I will caution you that this job requires expert soldering skills and a good soldering tool with a fine tip. This is not a job for a novice. I know plenty of pros that botched hyper modules. Take note to observe polarity of the cap when installing. I don't know the part numbers off hand but you can Google "Toshiba hyper module kit" and find a list. I use an ESR meter and test for the bad caps. You will use about 7 or 8 so it is cheaper to order a pack of ten.
I recently had my phillips 27" model
27PT6341/07 repaired after warranty expired due to white lines
appearing at the top of the screen. The shop advised that it was a
capacitor giving me the problem. So, after getting it back, I examined
the repair job and the shop had replaced a capacitor at the back of the
main board, next to the rear rca inputs. It is labeled 10uf 100v. I was
told that it would fail again soon because it is a manufactures defect.
For me it is at location 2465. Here are a couple of photos of the part. http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3215/2337629026_eaa30cfa18.jpg?v=0