The spring detached causing the door to stay open

I found the answer (see below) posted on another web site. I followed the instructions and replaced the spring. I found, as the original poster had, that the new spring works better than the original and is much more sturdy. To the original instructions, I would add the following:

1) There are about 20 screws so have patience removing and replacing the screws.
2) Step 3, "Slide off the rear panel" requires further clarification as the panel will not slide off even with all screws removed. I had to turn the oven over, with the top of the oven sitting on the work table. I then used a screw driver to lift the two tabs that hold the back panel to the bottom panel. With the tabs lifted, the back panel will rotate away from the oven along the edge where back panel slides into the top panel. The back panel can then be slid out. I have included three photos that show this step.
3) Step 7, "Re-attach feet": Be sure to use the guides on the bottom of the oven to slide the foot assembly onto the oven. I had unsuccessfully tried to screw the feet onto the oven without using the guides.

Oringinal instructions for replacing the broken spring:

Just repaired this yesterday.

Got a spring from Lowes (Hillman Part # 543028 for about $4), it's larger than the original but seems much sturdier, original is really thin metal. Fit the space provided without problem.

Oddly, end result was a more 'giving' spring action, prefer it to original, which loved to snap shut unless door was 100% opened (ie fully 90 degree open).

This is for BOV800XL:
1. Remove all rear screws
2. Remove feet entirely
3. Slide off rear panel
4. I was not able to remove top housing - but I was able to gently pry sides open just enough to thread the new spring with a little ingenuity and effort. Watch out for sharp metal edges everywhere.
5. Slide back in (remember that top edge goes under the top edge/lip)
6. Put all screws back in
7. Re-attach feet

Good luck!

The door of the Hamilton Beach Model 03008 or similar toaster oven does not stay closed when the door return spring or the hook it connects to breaks. The repair is very simple and takes just a few minutes!
The door spring is about 1 inch long and connects to a small clip on the inside of the left side panel of the unit. To see the small clip and the door spring, you simply remove the left side panel of the toaster oven which is done by removing just one screw.
The mounting clip on the side panel for the door return spring is located about half way up the side panel near its front edge.
The other end of the spring (its bottom end) connects to a metal hook. If the spring is not connected on its bottom end then the wire hook is broken. This is a simple repair that only requires a few inches of metal wire.
The other end of the metal hook (its bottom end) is connected to the bottom of the door hinge where it inserts into a small hole in the left side mounting hinge of the door.
When the steel hook breaks on either end then the spring cannot function, so the door does not stay closed.
To fix this problem, you simply get a piece of steel wire that is about 1/16 inch thick and a few inches long.
Bend the wire to make a hook at one end that the spring will connect to.
Then insert the other end of the wire into the small hole on the left side mounting hinge of the door. Then bend the wire on the inside of the hole to make a U or hook so the wire stays mounted in the hole of the door hinge.
Then adjust the position of the bend on the other end of the metal wire so the spring will have good tension when it is attached to the hook and to the clip on the side panel.
To do this you make the U shaped bend on this end of the wire to be about 1/2 inch from the end of the open end of the spring when the top end of the spring is attached to the mounting clip on the side panel.
To attach the spring to the wire hook, first remove the spring from the mounting clip. Then hook the spring onto the hook (bend) you made at the top end of the wire, then just stretch the spring to connect it to the mounting clip. The door will now stay closed.

Breville BOV845. I managed to partially detach the outer shell on the left side only. Found "the" loose spring inside with both ends snapped off & gone. Could see where spring attaches to a hole in the end of the door's left side "arm" but could not see where the other end of the spring would attach to inside the body. Had I seen an obvious location, I would've rebent the ends of the spring & fixed it. Or matched up spring at Hrdwre store & replaced it.
Online schematics are blurry & inconclusive. Almost all parts are NLA, obsolete.

I ordered bulbs online at http://www.smallappliance.com/ They come in a set of 6, you can't order less than that, I looked all over the place. Here is the part number: Krups SS-185303 Heating Element. You might want to find them on Amazon.com because by the time you order them from the above website, with shipping, it will come to more than you will pay total on Amazon and it's coming from the same place. Just in case Amazon doesn't have them in stock (you never know) I wanted to give you the source for the bulbs.

1. Unplug unit and remove all trays and racks and crumb tray. (I took this time to do some much needed deep cleaning too.)
2. First you have to remove the old bulb. I tried it the hard way by trying to pull it out - it's connected with screws on the left and right to the connector wires.
3. I placed the oven on a big light colored towel and had a cup ready to place all my screws in. I also took pictures of it before I started taking it apart so I had something to reference when putting back together. I used a small sharp phillips head screw driver, DW40, household oil, a set of leather household gloves and patience.
4. I first removed the cover of the whole oven by starting with the bottom legs (there's a screw under the rubber foot), the bottom, back and then removed screws on the face/door. Becareful of the door hinge. You might want to use some household oil or DW40 before you start to attempt this. My oven is 6 years old and we've used it everyday. There was some accumulated stuff around the screws.
5. Carefully remove cover of oven and door/face. There's going to be a thick wire that will connect the interface circuit board to the internal boards so again, becareful when removing the face of the oven. The glass door may pop out of the hinge so, again, becareful.
6. Make sure and observe how the door hinge and spring are placed and take a picture as you're going to have to put it back together.
7. When I got to the connector of the bulbs I had to use, very carefully, some more household oil on the screw.l I held the ceramic socket with my leather utility gloves on and gently applied pressure to get the screw loose on both sides.
8. Carefully place new bulb in hole/holders and gently screw the wires back on, start with the right side (facing the oven).
9. Reassemble the door hinge if you took it off. and place the face on just for position.
10. Attach the outer cover, back first and then bottom.
11. Attach face and make sure hinge is working properly and you've tucked that wire back in.
12. Attach legs.
13. Remove anything else plugged into socket you use for the oven (just in case it blows the socket which has happened with some DIY repair in our house). Plug in oven and test it out.
14. I hope this has helped you. If not, find some coupons for Bed Bath and Beyond and purchase a new one and sell your extra bulbs on ebay or craigslist. Good luck!

Here is a Krups website address that helps you locate service by state or contact the Krups company.

http://www.krupsusa.com/Consumer+Services/Service+Centers/List/CentersList.htm

I just fixed the problem with my Krups FBC-212. The door would not stay closed because the spring that keeps it in the closed position was broken. I ordered another from one of the small appliances parts sites (about $7 plus shipping) and that fixed it. I will describe how to do it and how to avoid the mistake that made it much harder and longer than it should have.
Remove the black screws at the back side, the ones holding the external black metal case to the silver chassis. There are 9 of these on my oven.
Also remove the 3 screws holding the left-side foot on.
Now you can probably slide the metal case (previously held on by the 9 screws) out from under the black metal front frame on the left side, thereby exposing the broken spring.
If you cannot get it out from under the lip of the front frame, you can take off the right-hand foot, and if that is not enough, you can remove THREE of the 4 black screws just inside the door holding the front frame to the chassis. Do NOT remove the lower left one next to where the flat door hinge piece goes into oven (which was my mistake) because that screw holds a critical black plastic piece in place.
By now you will be able to slide the black case that covers the sides and top backward and outward enough to expose the broken spring. It will be obvious how to attach the new one.

take the cover off by removing 6 screws around the back and 7 on the bottom (2 of these are safety screws but can be removed by a small flathead screwdriver); once you romove the wrap-around "hull" or cover you can see the spring on the left side of the oven from the frontal view.; the door stop is sort of a L shaped piece which you insert from the inside of the opening on the frame & thru the little hole on the left side of the door; once you do this stretch the spring and attach to the hole into hole you see on the middle of the L shaped piece.

This problem is caused by screws being loose or dropping off a limiting bracket on the left side of the oven behind the left outer wall.  This bracket allows the front glass panel to remain OPEN, as required for broiling.
To correct this, first check to see that the two black screws facing forward, behind the left side of the front glass panel are tight.  If not, tighten firmly, but be careful not to overtighten.  If this fails to correct the problem, then follow this procedure.
Purchase 2- #4 x 1/2" SS Phillips Pan Head sheet metal screws at your favorite hardware store.  Cost About $1

1. Unplug the oven and place on a flat work surface. Place a rubber mat or towel under the oven to prevent scratching.
2. Remove 2- #4 x 1/4" black phillips flat head screws on the left side of the front glass panel which screw into the black side panel.  These are NOT the screws which hold the bracket, which face forward, but are adjacent to the bracket screws.  Be sure to indentify the proper location of all screws for replacement.
3. Remove the 4- #4 x 3/8" SS phillips pan head screws at the bottom of the left side of the oven.  Pry the metal tab of the back panel slightly off the bottom of the black side panel.
4. Remove the 3- #4 x 3/8" SS phillips pan head screws from the back panel which attaches to the left side black panel.
5. Carefully pry the bottom of the left black side panel up from the bottom of the oven until it is parallel to the top of the oven.  It will seem hard to pry it upward as you are bending two SS tabs holding the black side panel to the SS top.  It will come up easily once you get it started.  When it is parallel to the top, slide the black side panel to the rear to remove it from the two SS tabs.
6. You should now see the limiting bracket at the front of the oven's left side.  Remove the 2- black Phillips screws holding the bracket.
7. Slip the limiting bracket from the oven.  Place on a wood block and with a chisel (or large common screw driver) and hammer, strike the screw holes on the bracket firmly once, so as to close the screw holes slightly.
8. (OPTIONAL)  If available, using a rat tail file (or small flat file), at the crook of the spring lever, carefully increase the indent of the crook ever so slightly.  This will allow the front glass panel to stop more definitely at the open point.
9. Remount the bracket using the 2- #4 x 1/2" SS Phillips Head sheet metal screws you bought. Tighten firmly, but do not overtighten.  Check the front glass panel movement. It should have a definite stop to allow the panel to stay open approximately 1/2" for broiling and should close fully, easily.
10. Slide the left black side panel on to the SS tabs.
11. Pry the left side black panel down until it meet the bottom plate.
12. Replace the bottom screws.
13. Replace the 2- #4 x 1/4" black Phillips flat head screws at the left side of the front of the front glass panel which screw into the black side panel.
14. Replace the back panel screws.

THERE IS A SAFETY MECHANISM ATTACHED TO THE DOOR THAT TURNS OFF THE OVEN WHEN YOU OPEN THE DOOR. INSIDE, BEHIND THE KNOBS THERE IS A SPRING THAT ATTACHES TO A WIRE THAT IS CONNECTED TO THE DOOR. WHEN THE DOOR OPENS THE WIRE RELEASES THE SAFETY MECHANISM AND THE OVEN SHUTS OFF. WHEN CLOSED THE WIRE PUSHES AGAINST THE MECHANISM AND THE OVEN WORKS. I WAS ABLE TO FIGURE OUT HOW TO RECONNECT THIS FEATURE SO THAT THE OVEN WOULD WORK.

I have the same problem. The end broke off. I heated the end with a torch and bent a new loop (cooled it in cold water). I hope it will work for a while. I could find a replacement on the internet. To get to the spring, just remove the left side panel (3 screws)