Question about GE 30 in. Profile JP938 Electric Cooktop

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One unit show fault code F153 before, now fault 160

One element shown fault code F153 every time it is turned on. I've tried shut the circuit several times and it keeps coming back. I was wondering whether there is something I could do before I call the service guy. I changed the right burner but now I am having trouble with the pan sensors. I am having trouble calibrating the sensors. Does anyone know how to do that. Thanks

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2 Answers

Why does it shut off if I use the middle burner at high, and other burners at any temp at the same time?


have an accredited electrician check the unit for a problem in the current usage when all burners are running ( elements shorting out through failing insulation, excessive resistance etc)
The circuit breaker should have sufficient capacity for all burners on at full heat but if one is shorting out through a developing fault , that may be exceeding the breaker capacity

Apr 22, 2016 | Cooktops

1 Answer

What does F1 mean


The Fault Code/s will show up in the appliance Display
F0 - No Alarm Signal
Replace Main Electronic Control
F1 - Door will not Lock
Check door lock. Is Door Lock Getting Power
F2 - Door will not Un-Lock
Check door lock. Is Door Lock Getting Power Supply? Check Control Thermostat
F3 - Self Test Error
Disconnect Appliance from Mains Supply, Wait 5 Minutes and then Reconnect to Mains Supply
F4 - Shorted or Open Circuit Oven Temperature Sensor
Replace Oven Temperature Sensor, Check Sensor Harness Connection between Sensor and Control Unit
F5 - Relay Contacts Failed - Sticking
Replace Main Electronic Control
F6 - Power Board Temperature Too High
Check Correctly Installed, Check Cooling Fan Assembly, Ducting and Airways
F7 - Incorrect Polarity - Mains Supply
Check Mains Connection - Live & Neutral round the wrong way
F8 - Power Supply to Interface Problem
Check Wiring Harness, Replace Main Electronic Control
F9 - Procesor is Auto Resetting
Disconnect Appliance from Mains Supply, Wait 5 Minutes and then Reconnect to Mains Supply

Apr 05, 2015 | Electrolux White Westinghouse Stove Range...

1 Answer

KDRS505XSS freestanding double oven range has wiring faults and will not heat. How do we fix them?


Hi,

I would have this unit checked because the electronic control is 300.00 for this unit. I ran into this and the control was the fault not the wiring to the elements, but I can't tell you to change this because I won't miss lead you like that. Several tests need to be done to rule out a shorted element before the replacement of the control unit p#W10365424, most electronics are not returnable due to there nature of people swopping them and returning them. I think a service call is needed to be sure of the issue you have.

Good Luck

Mar 30, 2014 | KitchenAid KDRS505XSS

1 Answer

Error code 32


Same unit, error 32. Replaced capacitors that were bulging on relay board. Work for a bit now same error message. Read somewhere else that they capacitors on filter board likely went as well. Where is the filter board located? I am guessing under the induction elements because I can't imagine it would be anywhere else. Can someone please assist in telling me how to access that board? I would greatly appreciate it

Dec 21, 2013 | Electrolux Cooktops

1 Answer

Fault Codes


This code is shorted temp sensor, element 2, which is the left rear.

Action:
1) Check all heater, sensor and wire harness connectors. Make sure they are tight and secure. Check heater ribbon for possible damage.
2) Remove sensor connector (for left rear in this case) from logic board and measure RTD resistance. Should be 1030-1150ohms. If not, replace heater element assembly (~$130 for part)
3) if fault persists, replace logic board.

See my other entry as how to open the unit and do the replacement of the heater element.

Note: this error code 1X4 (where X in the number of the burner) is similar to 1X3 which is "open temp sensor"; they are dealt with in the same way. Both can be due to damage but I would suspect that, unlike 1X3 codes, 1X4 codes are less likely to be due to simple wear.

Nov 19, 2013 | GE 30 in. Profile JP939 Electric Cooktop

1 Answer

GE profile JP969 fault code F113


I took the cooktop apart I removed the terminal from the main electronic board . The left front burner has 2 white wires and 2 yellow (my case). The 2 white wires lead to the RTD sensor.With an electric meter set on OHMS check continuity between the two wires leading to the RTD sensor .If the reading is more than 1030 ohms is good if not than you need to replace the whole burner that comes as a complete unit with sensor and ribbon heating element.I found it on line for $114.00 +shipping.I wish they sold only the sensor but it would've been too cheap and not worth it for the makers . All connections to that burner are very easy put back together . Some suppliers may ask for as much as $175-$195 for the complete unit .

Apr 11, 2012 | GE 36 in. Profile JP969 Electric Cooktop

2 Answers

Right Front Burner shuts off after 30 seconds. Fault code f153 flashes. I have reset the circuit. Same issue occurs. Any advice?


x9009 Hello and sorry to hear about your problem.

You have a open heat sensor, one 1 of your heating elements.
I suggest you contact a service company for repairs.

I tried to help you, Please help me by vote/rate my response.

Thanks and good luck.

If you live in the Denver Co area, I can help you out

Dec 22, 2010 | GE 30 in. Profile JP939 Electric Cooktop

1 Answer

My oven wont work the digital panel beeps and shows an f1 symbol


Here is some wisdom for understanding F1 fault codes.

In some models, there are subcodes that make diagnosis even easier.

Here's a simple explanation of what's going on and how to troubleshoot:

The F1 code indicates that:


a. The electronic range control (ERC) is sensing heat in the oven when in a time-of-day (i.e., not cooking) mode.

b. The ERC is receiving information to run multiple heat functions simultaneously.


Although different components (depending upon the model) could generate the code, simple and straightforward testing using your ohm meter is all you gotta do to test for it.

1. Check the oven temperature sensor. The oven sensor has to be within spec or it will cause the F1 code.
As an example of being out-of-spec, the ERC will generate an F1 fault code when the sensor shows 1650 ohms during a time-of-day mode.
This is equivalent to 350°F in the oven.
The resistance isn't high enough to generate an F2 code (runaway temp) or an F3 or F4 code (shorted/open sensor circuit).
The ERC monitors the sensor circuit after a heat cycle and expects the resistance to drop back to 1050-1100 ohms.
The fault code is generated when this doesn't happen. Checking the sensor circuit means also checking the harness,
harness connections and the sensor itself.

2. If the oven sensor circuit checks okay, then turn your inquisitive eyeballs to the touchpad.
If the range has a separate touchpad/keyboard, the keypad may have moisture that is shorting several circuits simultaneously.
If the F1 code is given immediately (instead of during or after a heat cycle),
remove the ribbon connector from the touchpad to the ERC after clearing the F1 code. If the F1 code does not return in five minutes,
then cast a suspicious gaze upon the touchpad/keyboard. Shorts may be caused by using an ammonia-based glass cleaner.
The touchpad surface will absorb ammonia-based cleaners that are sprayed directly on the glass surface. When heat is applied,
the surface material can break down causing shorts.
If you're gonna use ammonia-based cleaners on your control panel, then you should spray it on the rag and then wipe the touchpanel
-don't spray directly onto the surface of the touchpad.

3. On Amana ranges with a rotary temperature dial, be sure that the knob is in the OFF position when performing tests.

4. If these tests all check good, then replace the ERC.


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Nov 08, 2009 | Kenmore 30 in. 42701 / 42702 / 42709...

1 Answer

Right front (large) burner indicates hot, won't work, flashes F153


I hade a code 153 also. Changed the element(costly-$200) and had to recalibrate the pan sensors(in the manual). All works fine now.

May 21, 2009 | GE Cooktops

2 Answers

One unit show fault code F153


Hi - I've been having the same problem. GE tech service in St. Louis, MO has been a joke. 1st tech call cancelled 30 minutes before appointment. 2nd tech call to diagnose the F153 code I had already provided when I scheduled service on-line cost $74.95 and the tech didn't have the part on his truck. 3rd tech call a new tech shows up, has no knowledge of previous call diagnosis, opens the box sent to my home by GE and announces that the previous guy ordered the wrong part! We're on the 4th call. My cook top right front burner has not worked for a month. I've contacted GE corporate. The part you need (at least I need) for the right front burner which is a large burner is: WB30T10062. If I knew how to, I'd repair this myself. I don't have the extended warranty. The part is covered because my cooktop is only two years old (parts warrantied for five years) but labor is estimated to cost almost $200....plus the $74.95 "diagnostic" visit. A total rip-off. My advice, if you've got this cooktop, it's still under warranty and you aren't using all of the burners on a regular basis: start using them! The tech guy said most people use that front right burner alot and it eventually malfunctions (code F153). His suggestion was to start using the other burners on a regular basis, too, so that when they go out, at least the part will fall under the five-year warranty! When this cook top is done, I'm going to get a gas stove with "old fashioned burners" and it won't be GE!

Sep 24, 2007 | GE 30 in. Profile JP938 Electric Cooktop

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