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86 FXRS won't start

The relay clicks, but doesn't turn starter. I charged the battery, no help. Shorted across solenoid, it fired up, stalled, wouldn't do it again, but I can hear the solenoid engaging. I decide to change the starter motor. Before pulling starter, I tried again and bike started with start button once. Turned bike off, tried to start again and it just clicks again.
What do I do next?

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Pull your right side cover and locate starter relay pull spade connector 1 at a time squeeze them with a pair of plyers to asure good contact put them back on sometimes it really is that simple

Posted on Dec 30, 2009

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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How do I fix my van that will not start?


Hi James , you say you swapped relays ? The problem with that is you need to check for power an control at the relay socket . If you look on the bottom of the relay you will see four numbers , 30,87 an 85 ,86 . 85 an 86 are the control side of the relay . one of those two will have voltage an the other side goes to the PCM-engine computer . When you turn you key to start the vehicle a lot of things have to be right for the engine computer to energize that relay. No anti-theft system problems is the main one . Pin 30 should have battery voltage , pin 87 goes down to the S terminal on the starter solenoid . you can take a jumper wire an jump 30 an 87 the starter should crank over the engine - not start an run , just crank the engine over . There are a few good videos on youtube on starter system trouble shooting , pictures are better then me telling you. Good luck hope this helps

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Have a voltmeter? stop guessing, use the meter. same time and $$$$
starter? but what are the symptoms. ?????? no start sure. but
1: dead starter (not a sound)?
2: solenoid on starter click?
3: dead solenoid?
4: some times starts if i wiggle A/T shift lever? PRNDL bad.?

my guess, is the relay was good. all a long ?
if the old relay was burned to a crisp in inside (did you look) then
the starter can be shorted. they can in fact short.

we use to simple and cheap tools, a voltmeter and ammeter
The key switch energizes the relay.
the relay has a coil. if the coil goes to 12v, (meter across coil)
then the relay is energized. (cranking)
if that works we look at the relay output. (solenoids can short too)
use the volt meter.
if the voltage at battery sags below 10v. the battery is bad. or the starter is shorted.
we use an ammeter to see that short.
100- 200 amps (no engine stated but is covered in the FSM)

here is a voltage plot.
if you watch current it it goes to 500amps and the solenoid just bangs
the starter is shorted.

test 1:
voltmeter to battery neg lug (black meter lead)
meter on 20vdc range (battery with meter there,,reads 12.6vdc.)
red lead to starter solenoid small wire, key line (sT) i call that.
I turn the key to ST position.
the solenoid ST pin (small) goes to what voltage. key held there.?
no wire pulled, this is a live test.
we do that first.

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Hi Anonymous, and the usual suspects are:
1.Ignition/Light Key Switch not in IGNITION position.
2.Engine Stop switch in the OFF position.
3.Discharged battery, loose or corroded connections check negative cable at both ends. (solenoid chatters).
4. Bank Angle Sensor tripped and Ignition/Light Key Switch not cycled to Off and then back to on.
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You checked the relays,found nothing wrong,so you
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You checked the starter how?

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Are you sure your battery is good and able to take and keep a full charge? The only thing in the start circuit that could cause a big drain on the battery is a shorted starter. But if you can send power and it cranks okay, I don't think you have a bad starter.

Is the ignition key on when you crank it and have no spark? Does your distributor rotor turn when the engine is cranking?

I would try a new solenoid. If it clicks it should send power on to the starter on the big cable. Make sure all battery and ground connections are clean and tight. If still a problem, buy a voltmeter and learn how to do voltage drop tests. This will help find bad connections.

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