Green and red light are on my pyramid amp and its not working
I just bought a pyramid PB1217X artic series and i bridged my two 10's and it quit working then it started working and now it doesnt at all? the red and green light comes on and when the green light goes off when i turn the car off it bumps once and the light shuts off.
whats wrong with it cause i reconnected the ground and everything else on it.
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Re: green and red light are on my pyramid amp and its not...
It could be even simpler than that, yes an improper impedance rating on an amp will cause it to overheat, but should function temporarily until it reaches peak temp. If the outputs were blown the protect light should not light up being that they would need to work to cause the protect light to come on. I would double check all of your connections, one small little crossed wire would cause an amp to immediately go into a protect mode.
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if the amp is shutting down and the protect light is coming on you just have to let it cool down because it is getting to hot, sounds like you are pulling to many OHMS for the amp. if you are running your speakers bridged you can try running them unbridged (parallel) and that will drop the OHMS letting it run cooler. or you might have to try a different speaker/amp combination speakers might be to many ohms for the amp.
What is the speaker load in Ohms that you are running? Or what exactly is hooked up to it? are you bridging it? The protection light will come on if the load is too much for the amp to handel. If the load (in Ohms) is less than the rated load that it can run, it will stop the output to keep the amp from self destructing. The amp will sense that the demand for power will be too high for the amps circuitry which will either make the amp get so hot that it will burn up the copper on the board or more likely burn up the power mosfetts that power the speakers. If the Ohms are within range then it will allow power to flow through the circuit until the rails that the mosfetts are bound to until they get so hot that it will go into thermal protection. So if your amp has both thermal and overload protection lights and the overload is light then the load is probably too much for the amp. if it's bridged in mono the you can only have 1 speaker setup hooked up it if it's a 2 channel amp. a 4 channel amp bridged in mono for both front and rear channels will be able to have 2 speakers rated a 4 ohms each hooked up to the amp 1 set per bridged output or channel. Try it running in stereo with only 1 speaker per channel and see if it will produce sound. If not then you have an amp that has internal problems and will need to be serviced. Check your warranty to see if you are covered.
Usually, this indicates an overload condition. I have a Pyramid 35 amp supply that has no green light but uit does have a red light and an irritating little beeper that the instruction book says is activiated when power draw approaches 90% of rated output. (Why not call it a 30 amp supply if you can't use the full 35???) Enough editorializing. You don't say if the supply actually works, just that the light changes color. If it doesn't work at all, I would start with checking the diode bridge for a blown or leaking diode. If one is bad, it can output enough to drive an LED but fail anything else. If these are good, check the filter capacitor. If this is bad, the hum could concievably confuse the regulator circuit. Next, I would check what ever voltage regulator it has in it. I can't comment on specifics as there are many schemes that can be used. My unit, for example, is like a mouse driving an elephant. It has a small 723 regulator IC, (Aprox. 100ma output), controling 4 large TO-3 pass transistors driven by a 36 volt 40 amp transformer to boil it all down to an adjustable 12 to 15 volts.
The bottom line is without knowing if the unit is puting out or not and not having it in my hand to look at, this is the best I can do. I hope it helps.
Pyramid makes the PB series of amps. I have one that's driving a Sub.
The PB 700 puts out rms 60watts x 2 @ 2ohms, which gives you some "headroom" for your speakers. You don't want to over drive speakers with , for example, a 1000 watts for 100 watt speakers, because that's a good way to blow your speakers.
There are many brands and models of amps that will fit your speakers. Just make sure the amp will drive 2ohm speakers, since your jbl's are rated at 2ohm impedance.
You may want to consider adding a Sub woofer to your setup. A single Sub would fill in the low end very nicely. If you got a 4 channel amp, then two channels will drive your jbl's, and you can bridge the other two channels to drive the Sub. That would be a kick'n sound!
Just make sure the amp is bridgeable
For example, the Pyramid PB 1200 is a 4 channel, bridgeable amp. This particular amp will drive the 2ohm jbl's, but you would want a 4 or 8 ohm Sub connected to the bridged channels.
hey gandylt, i had the exact same problem happen to me acouple days ago. i bought an additional working xbox 360, and i decided to up grade the cooling. anyway let get to the point.
There were three things that i did that solved the problem.
1.) I removed all heatsinks to find that i did an crappy job on applying the artic silver, it was everywhere. so one thing u want to do is make SURE THERE IS NO THERMAL compound on the motherboard PERIOD! the thermal compund can act like conductors, therefore if its all around the motherboard it can actually BRIDGE two different flow routes on the motherboard which isnt good at all. So Clean the mother board with 90%+ Alcohol. 2.) Second i reapplied the artic silver 5 in an very thin layer! its important not to have too much. 3.) Third. i didnt tight the heatsink bolts so tight like i did the First time. tight them but dont tight them too much.
Those were the exact 3 thing i did to get my 360 recovered from the following error. good luck guys!
You didn't say how long it ran before it quite and I assume the red light you are refering to is the protection circuit engaged light and not the power on light. But from the info you did provide, I'd say that it sounds like you may have blown some of the main output transistors/MOSFET's. If so, it's time for a trip to the repair shop. Sorry, for the bad news. If just turning your car on caused the outputs to fry, then I wouldn't be surprised to find that you have either bridged the speakers wrong or by some means you have put the wrong speaker load on the outputs. Ask someone who knows what they are doing, if you have your speaker loading correct. This person might not be a car stereo installer as sometimes they don't know how to load an amp correctly, especilly when it comes to bridging. Good luck.