Question about Frigidaire FRS3R4EQ 33" 22.6 Cu. Ft. Side-by-Side Refrigerator w/ 4 Button Ice/Water Dispenser & Cle...

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Refrigerator and freezer will not cool

Frigidaire 2.5 yr old side by side.
Suddenly defrosted itself all over the floor, fan works, coils are clean, compressor comes on for 1-2 seconds about every 15 minutes. I have unplugged it a few times for several hours. Seems to be staying around 60+ degrees. Have unplugged the starter PC and it seems okay.

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Compressor is cutting on/off on overload,some are located on the side of the compressor,some inside the compressor.My advice is to install a start kit on the compressor.It is a combination overload/start relay/capacitor.You can get these at an appliance repair shop,just follow the instructions.Hope this helps.If I can be more help,write. Gregg

Posted on May 28, 2009

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Dear customer,

We suggest u to do the follwoing checks,
  1. Hissing and popping is normal on frost free refrigerators, it is the defrost heater
  2. Check that the refrigerator is level
  3. Check the drain pan
  4. Check the condensor fan
  5. Check the evaporator fan
  6. Inspect the compressor mounts
As for th freezer's problem checkout the,
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Frige not cooling


Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils or a condenser that is clogged with dust, lint, and dirt.

Evaporator coils Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets.

The refrigerator is supposed to self-defrost approximately four times in every 24 hour period. If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited.

Here's an inexpensive, though inconvenient, way to determine if the problem is with the self-defrosting system. Remove all of the perishable food from the refrigerator and freezer, turn the thermostat in the refrigerator to Off, and leave the doors open for 24 to 48 hours. (Be sure to have several towels ready in case the melting frost and ice causes the drip pan to overflow). This allows the refrigerator to defrost "manually." When the frost and ice build-up has completely melted away, turn the thermostat back to a normal setting. If the refrigerator then cools properly, it indicates a problem with one of three components in the self-defrosting system:

  • The defrost timer


  • The defrost thermostat (also called the bi-metal switch)


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If it still does not cool properly, there may be a problem with the refrigerant level or the compressor. You may need to consult with a qualified appliance repair technician to further diagnose the problem

Condenser Self-defrosting refrigerators all have a set of coils and a cooling fan, usually under the refrigerator, that need to be cleaned regularly. If these coils get coated with dust, dirt or lint, the refrigerator may not cool properly. The coils may appear to be a thin, black, wide radiator-like device behind the lower kick-panel. To clean them, disconnect the refrigerator from the power source, use a refrigerator condenser brush (see the Appliance Accessories section) and your vacuum cleaner to clean the coils of any lint, pet hair, etc. You may not be able to get to all of the condenser from the front, it may be necessary to clean the remainder of the condenser from the rear of the refrigerator.

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Possibly a defrost circuit problem -

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Look for frost accumulated inside the louvers at the back panel, top and bottom. If you see it, remove food from freezer and put in ice chest. Take out shelves, get hair dryer and warm the backside of the freezer, directing air down the louvers. Then leave to sit for 4-6 hours with the freezer door open. Put towels in the bottom of the freezer to catch any melted ice.
After period of time, plug unit back in and power the unit back up. Once you know it's cooling, empty ice chests back into freezer.

If there is a problem in any of the above components, then it will show up in 3-4 weeks witht he same problem again.

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Sounds like an air flow problem to the lower unit. Take the sheetmetal or plastic rear cover off the freezer back wall and make sure the coils are frosted up good and even but NOT a block of ice inches thick (air needs to circulate and a blocked coil won't let air move over it efficiently). Make sure the fan is running to move the air around. In the fridge area make sure the air dampers are letting the cold air from the freezer down to the fridge compartment. Depending on what you find will determine the next steps so let us know.

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