Question about Whirlpool LER4634J Electric Dryer

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Whirlpool Dryer not heating

Hi there.  We have a Whirlpool LER4634J model dryer that now refuses to heat at all.  We've noticed over the past few weeks that sometimes it'll take two cycles to dry thoroughly, but today there's no heat at all coming from it.  We had a power outage last night for a few minutes.  Does that have anything to do with it?

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  • 3 more comments 
  • billy1759 Nov 12, 2007

    Dryer will blow out the thermofuse every time I replace it. The modal # is ler7646eq2

  • Anonymous Jul 01, 2008

    My whirlpool Dryer not heating at all

    what should I do???




  • Anonymous Jan 10, 2009

    dryer turns on but doesn,t heat

  • Anonymous Mar 17, 2009

    Whirlpool Model #LER8620PWO - 3 years old - Runs but does not heat

  • John Mabry
    John Mabry Nov 27, 2016

    Thermal sensor is a device that's less than $20 and is accessible from the rear of the whirlpool dryer. Has a white assembly with two wires coming out of it and is attached to the heat vent that evacuates thru the vent tube to outdoors. Locate that and replace it. About 8-10 screws will take the rear panel cover off and disconnect the vent tubing at the rear base...usually a spring ring or circular clamp holding it on. Replace thermal fuse, replace rear panel with screws and re-attach vent tubing. Done

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  • Master
  • 4,889 Answers

This can be due to malfunctioning of any of these 4 devices..
1)Heating element
2)Thermal fuse
3)Thermostat
4)Timer motor
For more info and troubleshooting checkout this link..
http://www.partselect.com/dryer+dryer-wont-heat+repair.htm

Posted on Oct 22, 2007

  • Jorge Rendon
    Jorge Rendon Apr 03, 2015

    ELECTRIC Dryer no heat or little heat, or shuts down to fast: Check your venting and lint basket. Check blower for lint build up and blower wheel obstruction., test by trying to turn the wheel manually by hand (should be easy) May have to remove cabinet or front/back plate to get to it) Next check the heating element itself with a meter for continuity OHMS CLOSED CIRCUIT. If not its defective. Check dryer Terminal block prongs both outside prongs should give combined 220, and 110 each if u check 1 outside & 1 center (ground) prong. Also check house electrical outlet for full voltage. 220 because if u only get half or 110 volts you will be able to run the machine which uses only 110 to run motor but not the heater which uses a full 220, Check the thermal cut off, the cycling and the hi limit thermostats. For continuity or OHMS. If no ohms or resistance they need replacement. Lastly check your moister sensor. ( located inside the dryer door usually) Especially if machine seems to shut down early and clothes are still wet. Test with a meter at room temperature and it should show continuity. A failed moisture sensor will affect the dryer run time in the automatic moisture sensing cycle but it will not affect the heating of the dryer or the timed cycle.

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SOURCE: Whirlpool Dryer not heating

Hello,
My electricity went yesterday and the city came out and flipped a breaker outside and the all of the electricity came back on and then the Heat started working on the dryer. I GUESS IT'S FIXED NOW.

Thanks for all of your help!!

Posted on Jul 17, 2008

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Whirlpool dryer model LEW0050PQ doesn't heat up


Hi,
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Hi,

If you are having problems with your gas dryer not heating the most common problem is that the ignitor goes bad. Even though it glows sometimes it is still not working properly.


if you dryer is gas check out this gas no heat tip....


If you have an electric dryer, you can have many different things that can go wrong causing the dryer not to heat.


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Here is a tip that I wrote about that problem...

http://www.fixya.com/support/r4398592-gas_dryer_not_working_gas_dryer_not

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Hi,
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Whirlpool Dryer not heating


If it was taking longer to heat it probably has a restricted vent. Check for lint build-up. May also have blower cage full of lint.
UNPLUG UNIT FIRST!!
To access blower cage, remove rear panel. Remove four screws holding duct on left side in place at bottom. Remove two screws at filter area on top. Pull duct out at bottom and reach inside and remove lint.
Also ohm out all thermos. Check thermos on side of heater. Check white one to right of duct you cleaned. Check between larger two wires on four wire thermo. All should show zero resistance.
Check between two outside blades of plug. Should have about 220 volts. Pull plug out slightly and carefully check for power between outside blades. Then check for 110 volts from center to either outside blade. It only requires one 11o volt circuit to run, but both to heat.

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