Question about Kenmore 30 in. 42701 / 42702 / 42709 Electric Cooktop

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All top elements quit working on my Kenmore glass top range.The clock and oven light still work.

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  • bh99603 May 28, 2009

    It's a glass top range so there are no element receptacles to check

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They have a thermal overload resistor in the burner itself and they have a propensity to burn out, or it could be the infinite switch. You will have to check resistance across the leads that correspond to each pinout. You can find this out by backtracing the wire to each terminal on the block. Replacement of either part is the only option, there are no safe alternatives to repair them. Things to check- The screw in fuses, they are usually the 30 amp fuses for the oven. Next is the clock assembly, often these clocks will have the words "push for manual" or "turn for manual", this will put the clock back into the normal operating mode rather than the automatic mode. Next, you may have to remove the power and check for any burnt wires. If all checks ok, you will have to test the selector switch and oven control.
get the selector switch and oven control checked by multimeter Oven temp problems: Temperature is too low possible trouble makers, blown oven fuse, bake element is out, burnt wire, oven probe clips, oven temp control, oven temp sensor.
Temperature is too high in the oven possible trouble makers, oven temp control, oven relay ( if used ), oven probe clips, oven temp sensor, shorted wire.
Checking a surface switch : Many infinite surface switches physically look different, but they operate almost all the same way.
Test with an ohm meter. . . .Unplug the range.  Turn the switch to a high on position, you should be able to hear it "click" into the high position. Remove the wires from the infinite switch. Be certain you know how to replace the wires. Check across from L1 to H1, L2 to H2, and P to H1. If there is not continuity across all these points, the switch is defective. Sample internal picture here.
Test with an voltmeter. . . . . Unplug the range. Remove access covers to get to the switch. Plug the range back in. With voltmeter set to read on the 240V scale, read across L1 & L2. ( no power there, check fuses or wiring ) There should be 240 volts present here. Turn the switch on to a high setting. Read voltage across H1 & H2. There should be 240V present here. If you don't read 240V here, replace the switch. Sample internal picture here.
if you are not familiar with checking get it checked by a repair technician.its not a major problem.you can get the parts at 
www.repairclinic.com
its worth getting replaced as the switches are mostly the culprit.
thanks.please do rate the solution.thank you for using fixya.keep updated.



Posted on May 28, 2009

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Ok if the wire arced on something then the breaker either half tripped and is not sending the correct power or something is shorted the control maybe. Go to the breaker box and flip the breaker on and off then try!! or Many times a surface burner element can burn out. Look for obvious signs such as breaks or bubbles on the surface, loose or corroded wire connections, and test the elements for continuity. Sometimes the element receptacle or the element ends can get burned out or loose, causing a poor connection or no connection. If this is happening, you should turn the power supply off, and remove the element to inspect the plugs and receptacle. If you see burn marks or corrosion, it's time to replace the bad part. You can also check the terminal ends by lifting them out and looking to see if they got bent and have lost connection. Straighten the ends and re-seat the element if it had bent ends.
Thank You

Posted on May 28, 2009

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