Question about KitchenAid KCO1005OB 1400 Watts Toaster Oven with Convection Cooking
Brand new, got as house warming gift. Worked for a while then nothing. It will not heat, broil, toast or anything. The red on light does not light up. Electrical outlet is fine and working. Ubfortunately, I do not have any manual or other paperwork for the appliance but it is brand new. Is there an internal safety switch or circuit breaker? How about a safety switch for the door? Any help will be appreciated.
The overload switch is located above the theromostat.To check it put a jumper across the switch and plug the unit in. If the switch is bad you will now see the red light on and the oven will work. Take the switch off and gently pry the 4 posts back. Remove the pin, gently put it in a vise and put a drop of solder on top of the metal cap. Put the switch back togther, install it and you should be back in operation.
Posted on Mar 13, 2009
Though this is a generally good idea for a fix, I am not sure you should just do this solder idea if you don't know what you are doing. The solder should be the proper type to melt at the right temperature (206C). As far as I can tell, there is no bimetallic function here. It is the solder that is the only line of defense to stop damage from overheating. Since all solder seams to melt at around this temperature, you should be relatively safe as long as it melts below 206 C. However, I am guessing KitchenAid doesn't sell this part because if it failed, there must have been some cause of overheating. Unless that root cause is fixed, they probably don't want people to keep running the thing. It could be dangerous in an extreme case. I.e. The switch may not have failed, it may be doing its job just fine and your toaster may have another problem. Just randomly putting something in there to hold the pin up is equivalent to someone replacing a fuse with a piece of tin foil; it is very dangerous. So, yes it can be done, but make sure you know what you are doing. THis is basically a calibrated switch put in there for your safety.
Posted on Jul 25, 2009
Using this solution:
the problem is the current overload switch is faulty, the bi metal spring should heat up and break contact with the pin. this does not happen, the heat builds up and the solder holding the pin in place melts away and the pin falls down. this breaks the contact and no electrical current will result.
I opened the overload switch and put a solder drop on the ping. Works like a charm!
Posted on Jun 06, 2008
Just take the timer out of the circuit. when the oven is plugged in it is on. when you unplug it, it is off.
Posted on May 18, 2010
Although it seems like an easy repair I have trouble following it. When I took the switch apart, the pin has a metal head on the bottom and a pinkish rod touching the bi-metal spring. The question becomes - where does the drop of solder go - at the end of the pink red so it is connected to the bi-metal spring or at the metal base so it is connected to the metal assembly with the 4 prongs?
Posted on Dec 19, 2009
I have the same problem. Fixed it with a drop of solder but it didn't last. Went to fox it again and lost the pin. It dropped in shop and no luck finding it. Where can I get a new overload switch?
Posted on Jul 10, 2009
Contacted KitchenAid and got a brand new one shipped to my door with no charges. I just had to put the old one in the new box and return via UPS all postage paid. Great PR and customer service. The new one works fine.
Thanks for the response.
Posted on Jan 11, 2008
The problem is the current overload switch is faulty, the bi metal spring should heat up and break contact with the pin. this does not happen, the heat builds up and the solder holding the pin in place melts away and the pin falls down. this breaks the contact and no electrical current will result.
Posted on Jan 10, 2008
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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