Question about KitchenAid KCO1005OB 1400 Watts Toaster Oven with Convection Cooking

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KitchenAid toaster oven Mod# KC010058

Brand new, got as house warming gift.  Worked for a while then nothing. It will not heat, broil, toast or anything. The red on light does not light up.  Electrical outlet is fine and working.  Ubfortunately, I do not have any manual or other paperwork for the appliance but it is brand new.  Is there an internal safety switch or circuit breaker?  How about a safety switch for the door?  Any help will be appreciated.

Jim

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  • notoast Dec 14, 2007

    We have been using the toaster oven for about 8 months (maybe once a week) and just this week it stopped working. The light will not go on and it doesn't broil, toast, warm or even heat up when I turn the timer on. I tried unplugging and tested the outlet but no luck.

  • Anonymous Jan 02, 2008

    It happened to two kitchen aid toaster ovens that I got. I am trading it in for something else. They really need to do something about this because they are well-respected. I checked on another website and saw tons of reviews for people who had the same exact problem.

  • Anonymous Apr 22, 2008

    Same problem as the others, no red light and no heat. The bi-metal overtemp thermostat switch failed. I tried to contact KitchenAid and purchase another switch but they said it could not be done. They do not service toaster ovens, only warranty if it's less than 18 months old and you have a proof of purchase. They offered to sell me another unit for a reduced cost but I declined since I have only had mine for 14 months and though I was buying quality. I didn't have my receipt for proof of purchase so no replacement for me. I will not buy another KitchenAid product again.

  • Anonymous Dec 12, 2008

    Same problem here. Toaster overn just quit working! It is just over a year old.

  • Anonymous Dec 25, 2008

    Just goe KA toaster oven, when I plugged it in nothing happend! The red light did not turn on and the taoster oven is not heating up... I am super disappointed, I usually love all KA products. Will be returning this to the store and not buying another KA toaster oven,,,,

  • mobyfresh Mar 15, 2009

    this is my second toaster oven of the same model. Got the first one last june as a present, was broiling a piece of fish and it just stopped working. It was only 2 months old. Kitchenaid replaced it with the same model and have been using it without a problem for several months. Again was broiling something and it just died. The only thing working is the timer ticking away.

  • alafrantz May 11, 2010

    JimiJam soultion is correct I tested this by bypassing the switch.

    I was hoping he could identify were the solder drop goes.

    Is is on the metal part of the pin or the top of the pin that makes the contact (the part that looks to be ceramic.

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The overload switch is located above the theromostat.To check it put a jumper across the switch and plug the unit in. If the switch is bad you will now see the red light on and the oven will work. Take the switch off and gently pry the 4 posts back. Remove the pin, gently put it in a vise and put a drop of solder on top of the metal cap. Put the switch back togther, install it and you should be back in operation.

Posted on Mar 13, 2009

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Though this is a generally good idea for a fix, I am not sure you should just do this solder idea if you don't know what you are doing. The solder should be the proper type to melt at the right temperature (206C). As far as I can tell, there is no bimetallic function here. It is the solder that is the only line of defense to stop damage from overheating. Since all solder seams to melt at around this temperature, you should be relatively safe as long as it melts below 206 C. However, I am guessing KitchenAid doesn't sell this part because if it failed, there must have been some cause of overheating. Unless that root cause is fixed, they probably don't want people to keep running the thing. It could be dangerous in an extreme case. I.e. The switch may not have failed, it may be doing its job just fine and your toaster may have another problem. Just randomly putting something in there to hold the pin up is equivalent to someone replacing a fuse with a piece of tin foil; it is very dangerous. So, yes it can be done, but make sure you know what you are doing. THis is basically a calibrated switch put in there for your safety.

Posted on Jul 25, 2009

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Using this solution:
the problem is the current overload switch is faulty, the bi metal spring should heat up and break contact with the pin. this does not happen, the heat builds up and the solder holding the pin in place melts away and the pin falls down. this breaks the contact and no electrical current will result.

I opened the overload switch and put a solder drop on the ping. Works like a charm!

Thanks FixYa!!

Posted on Jun 06, 2008

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Just take the timer out of the circuit. when the oven is plugged in it is on. when you unplug it, it is off.
Locksmith

Posted on May 18, 2010

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Although it seems like an easy repair I have trouble following it. When I took the switch apart, the pin has a metal head on the bottom and a pinkish rod touching the bi-metal spring. The question becomes - where does the drop of solder go - at the end of the pink red so it is connected to the bi-metal spring or at the metal base so it is connected to the metal assembly with the 4 prongs?

Posted on Dec 19, 2009

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I have the same problem. Fixed it with a drop of solder but it didn't last. Went to fox it again and lost the pin. It dropped in shop and no luck finding it. Where can I get a new overload switch?

Posted on Jul 10, 2009

Contacted KitchenAid and got a brand new one shipped to my door with no charges. I just had to put the old one in the new box and return via UPS all postage paid. Great PR and customer service. The new one works fine.
Thanks for the response.
Jim

Posted on Jan 11, 2008

The problem is the current overload switch is faulty, the bi metal spring should heat up and break contact with the pin. this does not happen, the heat builds up and the solder holding the pin in place melts away and the pin falls down. this breaks the contact and no electrical current will result.

Posted on Jan 10, 2008

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