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The new cord has a green ground wire; two hot wires, which are black and red; and a white neutral wire. Attach the neutral to the middle connector and the two hot wires to either end of the terminal.
In order to safely ground the machine the green ground wire must be securely connected to the dryer frame. There may be a screw on the frame where you can attach the ground.
On your cord, the outside leads are the hot leads, with each one carrying 120 volts. On a four wiire cord, the two inside lines are neutral and grounds. For a three wire cord to be used with four lugs, the middle wire connects to one of the middle lugs, and the inner lugs should be connected together, Normally, a drier comes with a bridging plate to connect the two lugs, and it is removed for a four wire cord, or left in place for a three wire cord. You can bridge the two terminals with a piece of substantial insulated wire. I have never tried to buy a bridging plate, but you might try Lowe's, etc. for one. Best regards,
This advice is on how to correctly install an ELECTRIC DRYER or ELECTRICRANGE 220-240VAC power cord (US Standards).
3-Prong or 4-Prong – The Difference:
3-prong color code:
BLACK (HOT – 110-120VAC) – May also be referred to as L1 RED (HOT – 110-120VAC) – May also be referred to as L2 WHITE (NEUTRAL – 0VAC) – Usually grounded to the equipment frame via a jumper wire or metal strap.
4-prong color code:
BLACK (HOT – 110-120VAC) – May also be referred to as L1 RED (HOT – 110-120VAC) – May also be referred to as L2 WHITE (NEUTRAL – 0VAC) – DO NOT ground to equipment frame. GREEN (GROUND) – Attach to equipment frame.
Which One to Use: According to the National Electrical Code (NEC), Article 250, installations after the year 2000, require the use of a 4-prong plug which incorporates a separate ground and neutral wire. If you currently have a home that uses the 3-prong receptacle and cord, you can continue to use it. You will have to upgrade to a 4-prong configuration, however, if you plan on relocating your current receptacle, or if the internal wires of the receptacle become damaged in any way and require repair.
Converting from 3-prong to 4-prong: Make sure you UNPLUG the appliance prior to any repairs. CAUTION: Voltages dangerous to life are still present even with the appliance turned off and still plugged in. Notably in the area of the terminal block where the power cords are installed. You will need to remove the old cord by following these steps:
With the appliance UNPLUGGED, remove the access panel on the back of the unit where the power cord enters.
With the cover removed, you will see a terminal block where the power cord is attached. The terminal wires will be colored with the WHITE wire in the middle, and the BLACK and RED wires on either end. NOTE: There should be a green jumper wire or metal bonding strap attached to the NEUTRAL (white) terminal wire.
Remove the terminal lugs holding the old power cord wires in place. CAUTION: Use care not to drop any nuts or screws inside the appliance.
Remove the bonding strap or ground wire from the Neutral terminal lug. NOTE: If disconnecting a ground wire, make sure you re-attach it to the appliance frame.
Loosen the screws on the strain relief connector that holds the power cord in place and remove old power cord. NOTE: If your appliance does not have a strain relief that clamps down and hold the power cord in place, it is highly recommended that you install one. This prevents chaffing of the power cord against the appliance casing, and prevents the terminal wires from being pulled and broken loose. This could pose a potential shock hazard or cause damage to the appliance.
Install new power cord by threading it through the strain relief connector and tighten down the screws.
Connect the new power cord to the corresponding colors at the terminal block (Black goes to Black, Red goes to Red, White goes to White). The difference is going to be a Green (ground) wire that will connect to the appliance frame. There’s usually a green grounding screw for this. NOTE: If you disconnected a green grounding strap in Step 4., you can connect these two wires at the same point.
Re-install access cover. Turn off the service breaker to the appliance PRIOR to plugging it back in. With the breaker in the off position, plug the appliance in, and THEN turn the breaker on. In the event, something was wired incorrectly, it is far better to have your hands away from the receptacle and controlled from a distance. Safety first.
These steps will work for nearly all appliances that require a 220-240VAC power cord conversion. The power cords are usually rated at 250VAC, 30 amps, and are carried by any hardware store or appliance parts retailer.
If you desire to convert an appliance from a 4-prong to a 3-prong, make sure you reconnect the bonding strap and/or ground wire to the Neutral (white) wire at the terminal block.
On some newer appliances, it is REQUIRED that you use a 4-prong plug in order for the timer or clock circuits to function properly due to the way they are configured. Refer to your owner’s manual for the correct recommendation. Even if you currently have a 3-prong receptacle, you still may be required to upgrade to a 4-prong if you encounter this situation.
In many circumstances, new appliances are NOT sold with the power cord due to the various power configurations in homes. Always refer to the contents description on the shipping container the appliance comes with to see what additional items or tools may be required for installation.
If you have the newer style, you should have 4 wires on the CORD <--- not the terminal block itself. They'll be; Black, White, Red and Green. The green goes to the frame/cabinet and the white ALWAYS (ALWAYS) connects to the center terminal. The Black and the Red attach to either of the 2 remaining terminals... doesn't matter which one.
If you have a 3 wire cord, don't worry about a green wire. Just wire it "black, white, red" or "red, white, black"... just make sure you put the white in the middle. Think Oreo cookie.
And to be specific about your question... The Black and the Red are the "hot" wires... each one carries 120VAC.
Changing from 3 to 4 wire hookup on a electric dryer: Power cord help for 3 & 4 prong dryer cords This is an example of a three wire connection dryer cord hookup. Notice that there is a ground strap connected from the common center terminal to the frame of the terminal block. Place the center wire of the cord on the center terminal [ one with the ground ******** it ] and the other two wires will be placed on the outer terminals and it doesn't matter which wire goes right or left. Get the center wire of the cord right and you are in business. This is an example of the 4 wire dryer cord hookup. Notice that the ground strap has been removed from the terminal block frame and folded back onto the center terminal for storage. You can see the colors of the other hookups. TIP: White always to the middle.
If you are converting from 3 to 4 prong service, that is fairly simple and should be done as follows:
If you purchased a pre-terminated cord that has a molded plug on one end and four wires with lugs on the other then that is what you have to attach to your dryer. Start by pulling the dryer out far enough to gain easy access to the back panel. Depending on the model, you will need to find the place where the cord feeds through the back and feed the new wire through that opening ( there should be some kind of cable clamp that guides and clamps that cable through the back panel). Once fed through, look for the terminal block on the back of your dryer. You will have at least 3 terminals that should be color coded red, black white or green) Start by installing the red to red, black to black and white to white ( or green) and then take the green wire end of the cord and look for a ground stud on the back of the dryer. There should be a terminal or sheet metal screw that you can attach that green wire to the dryer. The green wire is a safety ground that bonds the dryer to earth ground and provides a path to ground through the dryer chassis should you develop a short top ground. That path is provided to protect you so that you don't become the path from power to ground. Hope that helps...
Just remember to do all this wiring with the cord unplugged from the power source...
red and black wires go to outside screws ..white goes to middle screw..lift green ground wire from screw in cabinet back and either tape off or connect to middle screw on connector ..green wire on cord goes in it's place
BLACK and RED are 110-120VAC each. WHITE is NEUTRAL - does not carry power. GREEN is GROUND. The Black, Red, and White Wires should connect to the terminal block & should correspond the colored wires already connected to the block from the machine. The Green wire should be grounded to the equipment chassis. I hope this answers your question.
ok on a drier on your terminal block the center wire is neutral the other two are hot on a four prong cord the green or ground wire connects to the body of the drier if the dryer already has a green wire coneccted to the body of the dryer then take it loose and hook it to the neutral terminal of the dryer then hook the green wire or ground of the cord where it was if you need any more help let me know