Question about Kenmore Dryers
Kenmore Elite Sensor Smart Electric Dryer Model # 110.63066101 keeps turning on and off by itself unless it is unplugged.
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
yes the heating element needs 220v to work will it go bad by having 110v ...??No but it will not work for sure but it will tumbler
Posted on Aug 07, 2008
The following link explains how to troubleshoot a dryer no heat problem:
The first thing you should check is your wall receptacle voltage to ensure you are getting between 220-240 VAC across the HOT leads (LEFT and RIGHT slots). If your input voltage is wrong, the heating circuits will not operate, but the drum still may turn. That's because the drive motor only requires 110-120 VAC, while the heating circuits require the full 220 service. If the voltage at the wall receptacle is good, check the again at the terminal block in the back of the dryer. This is where the power cord is installed. Check across the RED and BLACK terminals for the same 220-240 VAC. If the voltage is bad at the terminal block, but good at the receptacle, you have a bad power cord. If the voltage is bad at the terminal block and wall receptacle, check your circuit breakers. Some installations have two breakers controlling the dryer. If one trips, the dryer may run, but won't heat. If the voltage is good at the terminal block, your problem is internal to the dryer. This may save you the need to open the dryer if you have an external problem.
On your dryer, the heating element is located inside the dryer under the drum on the right hand side.
In most cases the Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) fails before the Heating Element. If the TCO is defective, it is strongly recommended that you replace the Hi-Limit Thermostat at the same time. These two components are commonly sold as a set and are located on the heater box on the left hand side. The TCO is located on the end opposite the heating element terminals, while the Hi-Limit Thermostat is located adjacent to the heating element leads. Failure to replace both components may result in premature failure of any components you replace.
Make sure you take all resistance readings with the components unplugged to isolate them and prevent parallel resistance paths. If you do determine your heating element to be defective and need to remove it, please post back and let me know. I hope this helps you.
Posted on Jul 08, 2009
Before assuming you may have a component failure, do a little routine inspection of the dryer and exhaust vent ducting.
If your dryer performance has been failing (i.e., clothes taking longer to dry), it may be because the exhaust ventilation ducting is clogged. If you can't remember the last time the exhaust vent was cleaned, or if it has never been done, this can contribute to dryer performance problems. All dryers need proper air flow in order to dry properly. If the ducting becomes clogged, the heating circuits will actually overheat, causing poor drying results and eventual failure. This usually results in the Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) blowing or the Heating Element failing or BOTH. When these components fail, they must be replaced.
There is no lint screen that catches ALL the dryer lint. Some lint will always get exhausted with the moisture from your clothing. If the exhaust vent is kinked or has excessive bends that create choke points, lint will accumulate in these points. Once the lint starts to accumulate, the moisture from your clothes starts to collect in it, and more lint get trapped. This eventually creates a clog. The Rule of Thumb: The SHORTER and STRAIGHTER the exhaust ventilation ducting, the BETTER.
A simple test to determine if you have a clog somewhere is to remove the dryer hose from the back of the dryer and attempt to dry a load of clothes as you normally would. The air escaping the back of the dryer should be forceful and warm (about 140 degrees). If the air flow is normal and the clothes dry as they should, then you need to inspect the ducting thoroughly from where it leaves the dryer to where it exits your home. It should be clear with no kinks or clogs.
If your vent line runs under a crawl space make sure it is suspended above the ground and has no sags where lint could collect.
If your exhaust vent runs to an attic, this is a poor design that gravity will always win because of the resistance the blower fan meets trying to push the exhaust up the wall. The lint will eventually collect in the ducting going up the wall and have to cleaned out from time to time.
Also, make sure you don't crush the dryer hose behind the dryer when you push it up against the wall. You should always leave plenty of space behind a dryer to prevent this from happening.
Rodents and birds are anotehr cause of dryer problems. If they have access to the outside exhaust vents, birds will build nests in them and mice love a warm place with plenty of bedding material (lint makes a nice nest). Make sure the exhaust vent is at least a foot from the ground and use a louver type cover to keep pests outside. Do not use a screen. It can resist air flow and clog.
In addition, you should be using semi-rigid metal type ducting that resists kinking, crushing and rodent infestation.
If the air flow is weak, then you need to inspect the dryer INTERIOR to see if the air blower is working properly and is not clogged. It is important to keep a dryer checked routinely. Failue to do so can lead to component failures and is a potential fire hazard.
If you have questions, please let me know. I hope this helps you.
Posted on Sep 18, 2009
unplug the dryer,if you haven't cleaned out the dryer check the thermal fuse located on top of the blower wheel housing,remove bottom panel,then remove lint filter,now remove the duct that the lint filter slides down into,now you'll be able to check the thermal fuse located on the top right side of the blower wheel housing,there's also a thermister there too,the fuse is the one on the left,part number 3392519 or 3390719,remove one of the wires and read it out with your meter.also while your in there vac out the inside of dryer,if you have a shop vac put it on blow and blow off all the lint that's built up on the motor and you can also blow the lint that's in the back of dryer forwards so you won't have to pull the drum,if you have a long run on the vent line from the wall to the outside blow it out with a leaf blower,if there is any blocks in the vent line,the duct or lint inside the dryer you could have a fire so this should be done every year,now if the fuse is good you gonna have to read out the ignitor,the sensor and the gas coils,if you have parcial heat it's definetly the gas coils,when they heat up they stop working when they're bad,if you need anything else let me know,so check the thermal fuse first,then the ignitor,sensor and coils,if they are good check to see if power is coming down to fuse and ignitor,you have a computer board on this dryer but most of the time it's the fuse and a dryer clean out
Posted on Dec 17, 2009
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