Question about Frigidaire fes365e Electric Kitchen Range

3 Answers

Element Problem problem with front small element not turning off. Have to unplug stove because of element. As soon as the stove is plugged in the element goes to full Heat. How can I reset this - I have swapped controls from other element and didn't change??

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  • rob Oct 21, 2007

    CPLEF398/CGLEF396

    I took back off and change the large/small element control from  other  elements by  unplugging the  3-pins and  swapping.

  • rob Oct 21, 2007

    This is on the back of the oven - the one on the inside of the oven is 30004866310 / model number CPLEF398CCA- it is three years old and is a frigidaire Professional series looks the one up top, smooth top, bridge element feature. This happen before 11/2 ago - and was able to reset.

  • rob Oct 21, 2007

    yes it is a square box - there are four of them, one for each element - two white for small elements, and two black for the elements with a small or large depending on the selected size. The manual I have is 316257107 (0204) Rev A - indicates manual for ES400 Controls.
    There is no wiring diagram in the book?

  • rob Oct 21, 2007

    There is a sticker in the warming draw.
    Model Number: CPLEF398CC2 S/N: VF30213062
    There is nothing in the oven - is there another place they put numbers?? on the back under the cover??

  • rob Oct 21, 2007

    As far as swapping, I put the one working in place of the one that I believed to be not working - it didn't change anything.

  • rob Oct 22, 2007

    Please show me what info that there is in the conversation that is helpful - I have the stove unplugged because when plugged in the element is on ?? To unplug the switch is three pin connection, simple to unplug and try with others. Is a bad switch or problem with some other board?? Do some of the tech guys have access to wire drawing ?? I don't have one. I still am in a position to call for help!

  • rob Oct 22, 2007

    How is this helpful - show me where there is any specs or test points - mine has a control board - and if it does what to do?? Swapping switch with the same switch on other side with same part number - your the idiot - are you one of the techs that flow?? I did reset the system and swap switch, and is now working!! your the idiot - I deal with lots of board problems at work and typically a tech get a couple of test points and work isolate the circuit. Were talking about one element?? one circuit ?? one board ?? Your some guy that fixed oven 20 years ago and hopes to get the 65 year old man thanking him for helping with a 35 years oven. If your so good - what should I have been able to fix - it working now, but at the end of yesterday I would have had to call tech support?? No different ?? They would have the model number! Idiot!

  • rob Oct 22, 2007

    If you read the Post the Switch is a THREE PIN connection - there is no WIRING up wrong - That's where you two guys are WRONG!! It's high end, and very apparent!!

  • rob Oct 27, 2007

    This is the second time in 1 1/2 year that I have owned this. So I know that some of the relays on the boards at work release and stick again. I mentioned above that I changed/switched the 4 pole switch or potentiometer? control for large elements. This has worked both times after about 1-5 hr or so. Is it just the relay on the board getting bumped or just releasing - is it a safety concern? It shouldn't be able to turn on with no one home? Should I just replace the relay Board? Thanks for the help.

  • rob Oct 27, 2007

    you need to stop working with Multi - names, I never found our messages helpful and figured someone else stepped up to the plate - and just because I found this, you don't have to sign in under some other name and get nasty!!

  • rob Oct 27, 2007

    Thanks for taking the time - I thought you were fridgetech. Sound stupid but who knows what people do out there. As soon as I rated it not helpful Lifter sent me a nasty email it was like "if was as if he created a second people to hound someone", but thank-you for taking the time - and sorry for that rating. 

  • tivan Dec 11, 2007

    Hi! I've got the same problem. Did you get around to fixing it?

  • Anonymous Mar 14, 2014

    I have GE 5 top element The right front auot side element not turning on

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I believe the range you have has a relay board mounted on the rear of the unit. The element switches tell the relay board when to turn the element on and off. You probably have a stuck relay on this board.
This type of set-up is fairly new and not a whole lot of people have worked on them. They will throw a good repairman for a loop the first time he tries to diagnose one.
(I speak from experience)

Posted on Oct 27, 2007

  • 2 more comments 
  • Michael  Lindley
    Michael Lindley Oct 27, 2007

    Yes, you need to replace the relay board. It is my experience with these units that it is good to keep an extra board on hand if you own one. I am sure those 8 yr old chinese girls are doing the best they can building them but they are prone to failure.



    I apologize to fridgtech, I posted my solution without fully reading all the comments. But I got a not helpful for my time. Guess I had it coming.

  • Michael  Lindley
    Michael Lindley Oct 27, 2007

    I should just walk away, but I just can't. Here is a link to the Frigidaire support site with a list of wiring diagrams for the CPLEF398 model. Yours is not specificly listed, but one of these should be the same as yours.

    http://www.frigidaire.com/support/Result...



    You seem to be looking for trouble shooting flow charts and test points for the electronic system. Sadly this is not the case with most appliances, "high end" or not. This is not an industrial grade electronic system like you may see where you work that is designed to be used in a commercial setting  with extensive product support to keep it repaired and in working order for decades. It is a home appliance with an average life span of 8-10 years and next to no manufacturer support. When it comes to home appliances, you don't get a better built product by buying a more expensive unit, you just get one that has more options and better looks.

    Imagine this range belongs to someone else and you are trying to find the problem. You are getting a small taste of what us repairmen go through every day. If the wiring diagram is not with the unit we have to trace the wires down and try to figure it out. If the diagram is with it, there are usually no tests listed so we have to figure out our own tests. And if we work for a company that expects a certain amount of production every day, we may have about 30 minutes to check it and diagnose the problem and get the correct parts ordered. If we do call tech support, we will usually be on hold longer than we are supposed to even be at the house. All this while attempting to instill confidence in the customer that they are in good hands and not letting on that we are flying by the seat of our pants.

    That's my 2 cents worth, which is more than you are having to pay for the free advice. At least you can't rate my solution any lower.

    Thank you sir and have a good day.

  • Michael  Lindley
    Michael Lindley Oct 28, 2007

    I appreciate the apology.

    If you have looked at any of the wiring diagrams I linked you to, then you see there is no real good way to tell if your problem is the relay board or potentiometer except unpluging the potentiometer and seeing if the element goes out. Past experience tells me the board is the problem. That is what I would tell you if I were working on it and hope that fixed it when I replaced it. Good Luck

    Mike

  • Michael  Lindley
    Michael Lindley Nov 08, 2007

    tijean

    Just wanted to follow up on your range problem and see what you found out.

    Thanks/Mike

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Give me the complete model # from the sticker on the oven so I can help.  Also, tell exactly what you did when you "swapped controls" this may help me too.

Posted on Oct 21, 2007

  • 2 more comments 
  • Craig Shelton
    Craig Shelton Oct 21, 2007

    This sounds like a generic model #.  Is this the one that is on the oven?  The model # from the manual will not help me.

  • Craig Shelton
    Craig Shelton Oct 21, 2007

    I'm sorry but I can't find anything with this model #.  I need it so I can view a wiring diagram.  This control that you switched, does it look like a square plastic box?  If so this is called an infinite switch and they are part #'s for small and large elements.  On some models there is a power board that supplies power to the elements and it is usually mounted about 1/2 way down on the back of the range.  If your model has this board it would need to be replaced.  It has relays on it the open and close to send power to the elements and if it has a bad relay it will constantly send power to that element.  Let me know what you find.

  • Craig Shelton
    Craig Shelton Oct 21, 2007

    The problem would have to be in the switch.  You could unplug the range and disconnect the wires to that switch and tape them off real good so nothing is exposed.  Then plug the range back in and see what you get.  If the element doesn't come on it's a bad switch and make sure you replace it with the correct part #.  If it comes on while not connected then you have a strange wiring problem that I wouldn't be able to figure out without a wiring diagram.  Most ranges have a wiring diagram on the back in a plastic pouch.

  • Craig Shelton
    Craig Shelton Oct 27, 2007

    In the 3rd part of my post I said if you have a power relay board it would need to be replaced.  It is a safety concern because with a bad relay on the board then the element will come on by itself.

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What is "very apparent" is you have no idea what you are doing.  It's funny you buy a "high end" appliance but can't afford to pay someone to fix it.

Posted on Oct 24, 2007

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