Question about GE WWRE5240D Top Load Washer

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Sometimes leaks during fill cycle. Sometimes small puddle, sometimes floods entire garage. Doesn't appear to be hoses at back or pump inside front right. Tub is not leaking.

Water sometimes leaking out during fill cycle. Intermittent. sometimes a small puddle, has also flooded entire garage area. GE model WWRE5240D1WW. Comes out right side of machine, but looking inside it is not coming from the pump located at front right. No water leaking from hoses at back of machine or from hose that water drains from. Tub is not leaking. I have left the tub full for 48 hours with no water leakage.

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

jsrock516
  • 5911 Answers

SOURCE: flooding! Help

This is usually a symptom of a pressure switch malfunction. The pressure switch is located in the operator console behind the load (or water) level knob. It is cylindrical in shape and has an electrical connection and an air hose attached to it. In many cases, the only problem is that the air hose has come loose and fallen off the fitting on the pressure switch. All you have to do is reattach it. HINT: placing a small zip tie around the air hose where it connects onto the pressure switch will create enough resistance to keep the hose from vibrating loose again. Just a snug fit will do. Over tightening can break the fitting on the pressure switch. You will need to open the console and inspect it. To open the console, it comes off in a few different ways depending on the year and model of the washer:

1. If you have removable end caps on the console, they simply pry off by lifting from the the back exposing a screw under either end. Remove the screws and the console lifts up.

2. If the end caps do not come off, place a putty knife in the front corner of either end of the console where it meets the washer top and push in while lifting up. This depresses a retaining clip and the console will lift up.

3. Some consoles have a screw located on either side in the back that you need to remove and it will then lift up.

Be careful when you lift the console. There are small plastic hinges holding it in place and they can break if you aren't careful. Place the console in its resting position by laying it over the back of the washer. The pressure switch will be easily accessible. Double check the hose like I previously stated and double check to make sure all the electrical connections are in place.

If you check the switch and find that everything is in place as it should be, you may have to replace the switch. Post back with your COMPLETE model number (located around the rim of the washer tub opening) and I can track down a part number for you.

I hope this helps.

Posted on Apr 11, 2008

JULIANFIX
  • 975 Answers

SOURCE: Washer leaking water from bottom

looks like you have to replace the RUBBER SEAL thats inside the tub at the center post , try this , remove the panel so you can see inside , put the washer to fill w/ water , and watch closely underneath the tub wheres the transmision is connected , and watch for LEAKS . hope this info helps

Posted on Apr 22, 2008

jsrock516
  • 5911 Answers

SOURCE: Washer Tub Fills With Water When Washer is Not On

I suspect you have a water inlet valve problem. When the valves fail, they tend to either leak by, or do not open at all. The symptom you are describing is typical of an inlet valve that is not closing properly. The leak may be minute, but over time, it fills the tub and over flows. To access the water inlet valve, you will need to remove the washer top panel. Remove the three screws in the back that hold the top in place and slide the panel straight back and lift off. The water inlet valve will be located on the left hand side in the rear between the fill hoses and the dispenser (as viewed from the front of the washer). If you wish to perform this repair yourself, you can find the part at searspartsdirect.com. Just type in your complete model number and the part can be located on the next page under the "Dispenser Parts" section as item number one (part #8181694). The replacement process is very simple. Just turn off the water source, remove the fill hoses, the dispenser hose and the mounting screws. If you need further assistance, please let me know. I hope this helps you.

Posted on Jul 03, 2008

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: GE Front Load Washer

Removing the lower front panel (3 screws nearest floor), and opening the round, white water pump filter cap (be ready to catch about 2 gallons of water!) is the best place to start. All you need is a Phillips head screwdriver and a large, flat pan (deep turkey tray works well)!

YOU WILL NOT BELIEVE what I found in my filter housing this morning (see photo below)!

490ccb1.jpg

The washer is working fine now, although I may go back and remove the entire water pump so it can be dismantled, thoroughly cleaned, and reinstalled.

Posted on Sep 22, 2008

SOURCE: kenmore 80 series overflow

Ok, it sounds either your hose from the water level pressure switch has come off or broke, or the pressure switch itself is bad.

Check the pressure switch hose first.

a20f3ea.jpg

My tubing came loose and I just duct taped it back on and it works perfectly.

You would need to open your console as shown here:
http://www.applianceblog.com/mainfor...ead.php?t=1081
Pull forward and up on the console and you can hinge it open and hanging from the hinges.

Here is your water level pressure switch:
00092478.jpgWater fill level switch

Here is the pressure switch hose:
00021892.jpgHose for water level pressure switch

Dave

Posted on Jan 10, 2009

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Hi, i've taken the top and sides off my Bosch dish washer sgs45e02gbas it has not been working. the problem is ....when you switch it on is there is a pumping/throbing noise but doesn't continue...


Hello Phillip,

The reason only the pump runs anytime its powered up is because the flood detector has detected water in the base of the dishwasher and until that water is gone only the pump will run.That flood detector is (when looking at it from the front) is in the left front corner,its a styrofoam disc with a rod in the center of it and has floated up activating the flood switch on the letf side wall where the water enters the tub (can be seen on the left side with side panel removed) if thier is no water in the base frame perhaps some foreign object has wedged itself under the sytrofoam disc holding it up. Until the water is out of the base frame only the pump will run as long as the flood switch is tripped.

Possible things that will make water be in the base frame are,
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a leak of any component or hose
a defective water level switch allowing it to overfill

GENE

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My whirlpool washer is leaking from the front center. Happens during spin cycle I think.


Hello.

If your washing machine is leaking, don't rush out to buy a new one just yet. Sometimes simple repairs to the machine can fix the leaks saving you hundreds of dollars and days of shopping for and installing a new one. Luckily, you don't have to be a master electrician to do repairs. These steps will walk you through the basics of fixing a washing machine.
Bellow are Instructions on how to solve the problem of leaking washing machine

    • 1 Look at the floor drain to make sure it isn't clogged. Sometimes it's not even the washing machine, but the drain causing those puddles of water on the floor. Unclogging the drain can be an easy and quick fix.
    • 2 Inspect the hoses for leaks or wear and tear in certain spots. Filling the washing machine may help identify any leaks or faulty hoses. If hoses are worn, replace them with non-burst stainless steel mesh hoses.
    • 3 Check the fittings of the existing hoses to the faucet fixtures and on the back of the washing machine. Sometimes a loose connection is the cause for the leaks. Tighten couplings and hose clamps if necessary to fix the leaks.
    • 4 Replace internal washers inside of the hoses if not replacing the entire hose. Something as small as a rubber gasket can create a lot of water damage. Use a screwdriver to pop the worn washer out and replace it. Repeat replacing washers on the other end of the hose.
    • 5 Examine internal components by opening the cabinet and starting the fill cycle to see if anything is leaking internally. Calcium deposits and rust may be evident around areas that have leaks.
    • 6 Use hose clamp pliers to remove any corroded spring clamps and replace them with new ones. Make sure the hose is still intact underneath the old clamp. If not, remove the internal hose and take it to an appliance repair center to find the correct replacement part.
Thanks.

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1 Answer

Water leaking


hi friend,
Step 1 Look at the floor drain to make sure it isn't clogged. Sometimes it's not even the washing machine, but the drain causing those puddles of water on the floor. Unclogging the drain can be an easy and quick fix.
  • Step 2 Inspect the hoses for leaks or wear and tear in certain spots. Filling the washing machine may help identify any leaks or faulty hoses. If hoses are worn, replace them with non-burst stainless steel mesh hoses.
  • Step 3 Check the fittings of the existing hoses to the faucet fixtures and on the back of the washing machine. Sometimes a loose connection is the cause for the leaks. Tighten couplings and hose clamps if necessary to fix the leaks.
  • Step 4 Replace internal washers inside of the hoses if not replacing the entire hose. Something as small as a rubber gasket can create a lot of water damage. Use a screwdriver to pop the worn washer out and replace it. Repeat replacing washers on the other end of the hose.
  • Step 5 Examine internal components by opening the cabinet and starting the fill cycle to see if anything is leaking internally. Calcium deposits and rust may be evident around areas that have leaks.
  • Step 6 Use hose clamp pliers to remove any corroded spring clamps and replace them with new ones. Make sure the hose is still intact underneath the old clamp. If not, remove the internal hose and take it to an appliance repair center to find the correct replacement part
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    Whirlpool Duet Sport HT - Left Front occ. leaks a lot of water


    hello. i dont have to tell you that these intermittent problems are often the most difficult to isolate ...........sooooooooooooo lets look at all of the possible causes for your machine leaking

    Your washer can develop several types of leaks. You can track down a leak based on when it occurs:

    During fill only
    During drain and spin only
    All the time
    During fill only If the washer leaks only during the fill cycle, check these:

    • Air-gap device -The air gap is a small device found on most washers that prevents the wash water from being siphoned into the household water supply. It's located either mid-way along or at the end of the black rubber hose that comes from the water-inlet valve. Often it's made of translucent plastic. If one of the air-gap components deforms or cracks, you may need to replace it.

    • The tube -There's a rubber tube that runs between the water-inlet valve and either the air-gap or the inlet spout. If it cracks or breaks, it can cause a leak.

    • Inlet spout -Most washers have a plastic spout near the top of the main clothes tub that directs the water into the tub. If the spout cracks or breaks free of its mounting, it can cause a leak.

    During drain and spin only A washer that leaks only during the spin cycle often has a leak in the main drain hose. Inspect the entire hose and correct any problem you find. Alternatively, the steel or plastic outer tubs can rust, split, or be punctured. This may be most visible during large loads and high water levels. If this happens, you may have to replace the entire outer tub--but that may not be an economical repair to make. Consult a qualified appliance repair technician for further details.

    All the time If the washer leaks all the time, check these:

    • Hot and cold water fill hoses - Check the hot and cold water hoses from the household plumbing. If either hose is leaking, tighten it or replace it, as appropriate.

    • Main tub seal - The main tub seal is located between the transmission and the outer tub. It's the primary water seal in the outer tub for the transmission-shaft entry point. If this seal leaks, you can see the leak by opening up the machine's main access panel while the machine is full of water with a small amount of detergent in it. The leak appears at the underside of the outer tub, at or near the center. This seal is difficult to replace. You probably should call a qualified appliance repair technician.

    • Pump - If the pump leaks, you can probably spot the leak when the tub is full of water. The pump has two or more black rubber or plastic hoses attached to it and usually has a drive belt that spins the pump. If the pump is leaking, you need to replace it.

    • Outer tub - Over time, the steel or plastic outer tubs can rust, split, or be punctured. If this happens, you may have to replace the entire outer tub--but that may not be an economical repair to make. Consult a qualified appliance repair technician for further details.

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    Noisey during spin


    yes you are right noise during spin cycle is due to faulty bearing. If the tub seal lets go water will weep into the tub bearing. This will rust the basket shaft and normally wreck the tub bearing. Once the bearings starts to get worn enough it usually gets very noisy. The tub bearing is pressed onto the outer back half of the tub shell assembly. Normally need to replace the inner basket/shaft assembly  and the outer shell with the tub bearing. 
    Sometimes the inner basket support will crack, this can give an clicking or banging noise as well.
     
    Pictures of this job...
    A sure indication was the brown junk/gookus leaking out if the rear bearing area and the belt has spewed it around in the drum that the rear bearing and seal was bad...
    Picture1 - Picture2
    The whole outer shell and basket come out to do this repair....what bad bearing and rusted shaft looked like...
    Picture1 - Picture2 - Picture3
    I had to remove the back panel. Undo the pump hose & water level hose, remove the 2 shocks, remove the motor, undo the front boot from the outer panel and remove the 2 springs to lift the whole assembly out from the back to work on it.
    Picture1 ( boot pushed inside ) Help page1 - Help page2
    It leaks Your washer can develop several types of leaks. You can track down a leak based on when it occurs: 

    During fill only
    During drain and spin only
    All the time
    During fill only If the washer leaks only during the fill cycle, check these:

    • Air-gap device -The air gap is a small device found on most washers that prevents the wash water from being siphoned into the household water supply. It's located either mid-way along or at the end of the black rubber hose that comes from the water-inlet valve. Often it's made of translucent plastic. If one of the air-gap components deforms or cracks, you may need to replace it.


    • The tube -There's a rubber tube that runs between the water-inlet valve and either the air-gap or the inlet spout. If it cracks or breaks, it can cause a leak.


    • Inlet spout -Most washers have a plastic spout near the top of the main clothes tub that directs the water into the tub. If the spout cracks or breaks free of its mounting, it can cause a leak.


    During drain and spin only A washer that leaks only during the spin cycle often has a leak in the main drain hose. Inspect the entire hose and correct any problem you find. Alternatively, the steel or plastic outer tubs can rust, split, or be punctured. This may be most visible during large loads and high water levels. If this happens, you may have to replace the entire outer tub--but that may not be an economical repair to make. Consult a qualified appliance repair technician for further details. 

    All the time If the washer leaks all the time, check these:

    • Hot and cold water fill hoses - Check the hot and cold water hoses from the household plumbing. If either hose is leaking, tighten it or replace it, as appropriate.


    • Main tub seal - The main tub seal is located between the transmission and the outer tub. It's the primary water seal in the outer tub for the transmission-shaft entry point. If this seal leaks, you can see the leak by opening up the machine's main access panel while the machine is full of water with a small amount of detergent in it. The leak appears at the underside of the outer tub, at or near the center. This seal is difficult to replace. You probably should call a qualified appliance repair technician.


    • Pump - If the pump leaks, you can probably spot the leak when the tub is full of water. The pump has two or more black rubber or plastic hoses attached to it and usually has a drive belt that spins the pump. If the pump is leaking, you need to replace it.


    • Outer tub - Over time, the steel or plastic outer tubs can rust, split, or be punctured. If this happens, you may have to replace the entire outer tub--but that may not be an economical repair to make. Consult a qualified appliance repair technician for further details.


    May 07, 2009 | LG WD-16115FD Front Load Washer

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    I have Frigidaire front loading. During the spin


    Your washer can develop several types of leaks. You can track down a leak based on when it occurs: 

    During fill only
    During drain and spin only
    All the time
    During fill only If the washer leaks only during the fill cycle, check these:

    • Air-gap device -The air gap is a small device found on most washers that prevents the wash water from being siphoned into the household water supply. It's located either mid-way along or at the end of the black rubber hose that comes from the water-inlet valve. Often it's made of translucent plastic. If one of the air-gap components deforms or cracks, you may need to replace it.


    • The tube -There's a rubber tube that runs between the water-inlet valve and either the air-gap or the inlet spout. If it cracks or breaks, it can cause a leak.


    • Inlet spout -Most washers have a plastic spout near the top of the main clothes tub that directs the water into the tub. If the spout cracks or breaks free of its mounting, it can cause a leak.


    During drain and spin only A washer that leaks only during the spin cycle often has a leak in the main drain hose. Inspect the entire hose and correct any problem you find. Alternatively, the steel or plastic outer tubs can rust, split, or be punctured. This may be most visible during large loads and high water levels. If this happens, you may have to replace the entire outer tub--but that may not be an economical repair to make. Consult a qualified appliance repair technician for further details. 

    All the time If the washer leaks all the time, check these:

    • Hot and cold water fill hoses - Check the hot and cold water hoses from the household plumbing. If either hose is leaking, tighten it or replace it, as appropriate.


    • Main tub seal - The main tub seal is located between the transmission and the outer tub. It's the primary water seal in the outer tub for the transmission-shaft entry point. If this seal leaks, you can see the leak by opening up the machine's main access panel while the machine is full of water with a small amount of detergent in it. The leak appears at the underside of the outer tub, at or near the center. This seal is difficult to replace. You probably should call a qualified appliance repair technician.


    • Pump - If the pump leaks, you can probably spot the leak when the tub is full of water. The pump has two or more black rubber or plastic hoses attached to it and usually has a drive belt that spins the pump. If the pump is leaking, you need to replace it.


    • Outer tub - Over time, the steel or plastic outer tubs can rust, split, or be punctured. If this happens, you may have to replace the entire outer tub--but that may not be an economical repair to make. Consult a qualified appliance repair technician for further details.

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    Amana washer model LW6501W2 leaks in front during fill up


    It leaks Your washer can develop several types of leaks. You can track down a leak based on when it occurs:

    During fill only
    During drain and spin only
    All the time
    During fill only If the washer leaks only during the fill cycle, check these:

    • Air-gap device -The air gap is a small device found on most washers that prevents the wash water from being siphoned into the household water supply. It's located either mid-way along or at the end of the black rubber hose that comes from the water-inlet valve. Often it's made of translucent plastic. If one of the air-gap components deforms or cracks, you may need to replace it.


    • The tube -There's a rubber tube that runs between the water-inlet valve and either the air-gap or the inlet spout. If it cracks or breaks, it can cause a leak.


    • Inlet spout -Most washers have a plastic spout near the top of the main clothes tub that directs the water into the tub. If the spout cracks or breaks free of its mounting, it can cause a leak.


    During drain and spin only A washer that leaks only during the spin cycle often has a leak in the main drain hose. Inspect the entire hose and correct any problem you find. Alternatively, the steel or plastic outer tubs can rust, split, or be punctured. This may be most visible during large loads and high water levels. If this happens, you may have to replace the entire outer tub--but that may not be an economical repair to make. Consult a qualified appliance repair technician for further details.

    All the time If the washer leaks all the time, check these:

    • Hot and cold water fill hoses - Check the hot and cold water hoses from the household plumbing. If either hose is leaking, tighten it or replace it, as appropriate.


    • Main tub seal - The main tub seal is located between the transmission and the outer tub. It's the primary water seal in the outer tub for the transmission-shaft entry point. If this seal leaks, you can see the leak by opening up the machine's main access panel while the machine is full of water with a small amount of detergent in it. The leak appears at the underside of the outer tub, at or near the center. This seal is difficult to replace. You probably should call a qualified appliance repair technician.


    • Pump - If the pump leaks, you can probably spot the leak when the tub is full of water. The pump has two or more black rubber or plastic hoses attached to it and usually has a drive belt that spins the pump. If the pump is leaking, you need to replace it.


    • Outer tub - Over time, the steel or plastic outer tubs can rust, split, or be punctured. If this happens, you may have to replace the entire outer tub--but that may not be an economical repair to make. Consult a qualified appliance repair technician for further details.

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    It leaksYour washer can develop several types of leaks. You can track down a leak based on when it occurs: 

    During fill only
    During drain and spin only
    All the time

    During fill only
    If the washer leaks only during the fill cycle, check these:

    Air-gap device -The air gap is a small device found on most washers that prevents the wash water from being siphoned into the household water supply. It's located either mid-way along or at the end of the black rubber hose that comes from the water-inlet valve. Often it's made of translucent plastic. If one of the air-gap components deforms or cracks, you may need to replace it.


    The tube -There's a rubber tube that runs between the water-inlet valve and either the air-gap or the inlet spout. If it cracks or breaks, it can cause a leak. 


    Inlet spout -Most washers have a plastic spout near the top of the main clothes tub that directs the water into the tub. If the spout cracks or breaks free of its mounting, it can cause a leak. 



    During drain and spin only
    A washer that leaks only during the spin cycle often has a leak in the main drain hose. Inspect the entire hose and correct any problem you find. Alternatively, the steel or plastic outer tubs can rust, split, or be punctured. This may be most visible during large loads and high water levels. If this happens, you may have to replace the entire outer tub--but that may not be an economical repair to make. Consult a qualified appliance repair technician for further details. 


    All the time
    If the washer leaks all the time, check these:

    Hot and cold water fill hoses - Check the hot and cold water hoses from the household plumbing. If either hose is leaking, tighten it or replace it, as appropriate.


    Main tub seal - The main tub seal is located between the transmission and the outer tub. It's the primary water seal in the outer tub for the transmission-shaft entry point. If this seal leaks, you can see the leak by opening up the machine's main access panel while the machine is full of water with a small amount of detergent in it. The leak appears at the underside of the outer tub, at or near the center. This seal is difficult to replace. You probably should call a qualified appliance repair technician. 


    Pump - If the pump leaks, you can probably spot the leak when the tub is full of water. The pump has two or more black rubber or plastic hoses attached to it and usually has a drive belt that spins the pump. If the pump is leaking, you need to replace it. 


    Outer tub - Over time, the steel or plastic outer tubs can rust, split, or be punctured. If this happens, you may have to replace the entire outer tub--but that may not be an economical repair to make. Consult a qualified appliance repair technician for further details.

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    It leaksYour washer can develop several types of leaks. You can track down a leak based on when it occurs: 

    During fill only
    During drain and spin only
    All the time

    During fill only
    If the washer leaks only during the fill cycle, check these:

    Air-gap device -The air gap is a small device found on most washers that prevents the wash water from being siphoned into the household water supply. It's located either mid-way along or at the end of the black rubber hose that comes from the water-inlet valve. Often it's made of translucent plastic. If one of the air-gap components deforms or cracks, you may need to replace it.


    The tube -There's a rubber tube that runs between the water-inlet valve and either the air-gap or the inlet spout. If it cracks or breaks, it can cause a leak. 


    Inlet spout -Most washers have a plastic spout near the top of the main clothes tub that directs the water into the tub. If the spout cracks or breaks free of its mounting, it can cause a leak. 



    During drain and spin only
    A washer that leaks only during the spin cycle often has a leak in the main drain hose. Inspect the entire hose and correct any problem you find. Alternatively, the steel or plastic outer tubs can rust, split, or be punctured. This may be most visible during large loads and high water levels. If this happens, you may have to replace the entire outer tub--but that may not be an economical repair to make. Consult a qualified appliance repair technician for further details. 


    All the time
    If the washer leaks all the time, check these:

    Hot and cold water fill hoses - Check the hot and cold water hoses from the household plumbing. If either hose is leaking, tighten it or replace it, as appropriate.


    Main tub seal - The main tub seal is located between the transmission and the outer tub. It's the primary water seal in the outer tub for the transmission-shaft entry point. If this seal leaks, you can see the leak by opening up the machine's main access panel while the machine is full of water with a small amount of detergent in it. The leak appears at the underside of the outer tub, at or near the center. This seal is difficult to replace. You probably should call a qualified appliance repair technician. 


    Pump - If the pump leaks, you can probably spot the leak when the tub is full of water. The pump has two or more black rubber or plastic hoses attached to it and usually has a drive belt that spins the pump. If the pump is leaking, you need to replace it. 


    Outer tub - Over time, the steel or plastic outer tubs can rust, split, or be punctured. If this happens, you may have to replace the entire outer tub--but that may not be an economical repair to make. Consult a qualified appliance repair technician for further details.

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    the water inlet solenoid valve has debris stuck inside of it, thereby not allowing complete "off" mode. best to remove it and clean the water path thoroughly. valve is found by tracing the inlet water hose.

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