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Posted on May 27, 2009
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Noisey gear box. silent when clutch is engaged

I have a ford xr6 turbo 04. last near i burnt my clutch. had it replased with a extremely hard heavy duty clutch. since i have had it installed my car had seemed to be getting noiser. i than lost my lisence for 3 months. once retained (3 months ago) i noticed the noise again. since then it has only gotten worse. when i put my goot on the clutch the noise stops? what could this be? I asked 3 different mechanics here is what they said
1) a bearing in the gear box needs to be replaced $2000
2) change of oil, if the noise continues than the bearing in gear box needs to be replaced.
3) alot of manual cars make that noise. just general noise of the gear box. no solution.

who do i choose? or is there another solution?

i also stalled my car. when i started it again it would barely move. i stoped and startd it again than it was ok. but noise was still there. also note this noise gets worse when car is hot

  • Anonymous May 11, 2010


    Was the throwout bearing replaced when the clutch work was done?

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  • Expert 27 Answers
  • Posted on May 27, 2009
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Joined: May 27, 2009
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Change fluid first then go from there

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When the car is on hard to get into gear or reverse on a manual transmission for 04 cavalier

Hi Jenna,
That means the Clutch plate (Disc) is very near burnt out (finished), adjustment which is Automatic is not possible when the clutch pedal is depressed. Get to a mechanic soon. Otherwise you will have to pay for towing too.
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When i start to drive in first gear, i experience extreme shaking

If you have a manual gear box there are two things that you can check. First is the engine mounts especially the rear one to see if the rubber has broken away. Check all engine mounts for the same problem.. The second is a failing clutch or if you have a cable operated clutch it points to engine mounts. What appears to be happening is when you engage the clutch in first gear the torque reaction of the engine is rolling the gear box away from the clutch actuation arm or lever. The clutch slips ,the engine rolls back ,the clutch engages , the engine rolls and so you have a bad shudder. When you are moving the reaction is less as you move up through the gears . If all is good then have a qualified clutch and brake specialist do a check on the clutch itself.
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My 1995 F350 Powerstroke "Shutters"

VIBRATION - DRIVELINE RESONANCE/VIBRATIONBETWEEN 1400 AND 2000 RPM WITH CONVERTER
Clutch ENGAGED DURING MEDIUM TO HEAVY
THROTTLE CONDITIONS - VEHICLES WITH 7.3L DI
TURBO ENGINE AND TRANSMISSION BUILT PRIOR
TO 11/13/95 (5L13)
^ TRANSMISSION - E40D - DRIVELINERESONANCE/VIBRATION BETWEEN 1400 AND 2000
RPM WITH CONVERTER
Clutch ENGAGED
DURING MEDIUM TO HEAVY THROTTLE
CONDITIONS - VEHICLES WITH 7.3L DI TURBO
ENGINE AND TRANSMISSION BUILT PRIOR TO
11/13/95 (5L13)

FORD:
1995-1996 E-350, F-250 CREW CAB, F-350 CREW CAB
Article 96-26-21 is being republished in its entirety as part of a consolidated 7.3L diagnostic aid booklet.
ISSUE
Some vehicles with transmissions built prior to 11/13/95 (5L13) may exhibit a driveline resonance/vibration between 1400 and 2000 RPM with the torque convertor engaged. This may be caused by the torque converter.
ACTION
Prior to torque converter replacement, refer to the following Service Procedure for details to verify conditions.
SERVICE PROCEDURE
1. Verify the resonance/vibration does not occur in neutral and is most noticeable between 1400 and 2000 RPM with the converter clutch engaged during medium to heavy throttle conditions. Also watch for the vibration to diminish at engine speeds lower than 1400 and higher than 2000 RPM. If the concern meets all of these conditions and the transmission has a built date prior to 11/13/95 (5L13), replace the torque converter. Refer to the appropriate Service Manual for removal and installation procedures.
2. If the vibration concerns do not meet the conditions, check for non-factory installed items that could affect driveline and verify proper installation. Also refer to the appropriate Service Manual, Section 05-00 for diagnosis and testing.
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Hard to shift

You may have what is called a syncronizer problem which is basically a transmission rip down and inspection, when the syncros go they create havoc inside the gear box making shifting extremely difficult in these gear ranges.
The other thing that also should be inspected at the same time the transmission is looked at is the clutch assembly, clutches should last long times depending on how each vehicle is driven, generally a clutch can be worn out in as little as 30,000 miles if it is pushed hard as oppossed to a car being babied and lasting 100,000 miles or more.
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Clarify please. When in gear & you take foot off the pedal it revs?
Your explanation appears to say that when you push the clutch, to disengage clutch, engine revs, as it should, and when you remove your foot, from pedal & it engages, truck runs as it should. Are you serious, or just wasting our time?
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