At Fixya.com, our trusted experts are meticulously vetted and possess extensive experience in their respective fields. Backed by a community of knowledgeable professionals, our platform ensures that the solutions provided are thoroughly researched and validated.
Hi!My Mitsubitshi work shop have tryed to clean everthing they meen can be the problem.The lamp goes away every time,but after some miles it come bak again!Regards from [email protected]
Hi Marty!Havent get the code from my dealer yet!Will try to get in contact on Freeday.You will hear from me than!Per Rasmussen.Hi Marty!Havent get the code from my dealer yet!Will try to get in contact on Freeday.You will hear from me than!Per Rasmussen.
You can't post conmments that contain an email address.
Hello, do you know the code # from when the light comes on? if no, go to most any auto parts store, and they will check usualy for free. if you get the code # i can help more...good luck, marty
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Looks as if it is a 4amp fuse and power comes from the headlight switch. Do park lights work? Looks as if 20amp fuse to headlight switch controls park lights and possibly power supply through switch to 4amp fuse. This diagram is for a 6cyl and should be the same as an 8cyl. Hope it helps
Ok two things here.... first what color is it....Blue meens you have bad rings or bad valves, white with the smell of anti freeze meens you could have a cracked head or blown head gasket. Sorry..... hope this helps. Oh i forgot one....black meens your getting way to much gas.....
Monitoring the operation of the various inputs
and outputs is what on-board diagnostics is all about. When computerized
engine controls went nationwide in 1981 to comply with federal emission
regulations, the "Check Engine" lamp became a new feature on the
instrument panel.
The "Malfunction Indicator Lamp" (or MIL as it
is called today) is supposed to alert the driver when a problem occurs
in the engine control system. Depending on how the system is configured
and the nature of the problem, the lamp may come on and go off, remain
on continuously or flash. Some types of intermittent problems will make
the lamp come on only while the fault is occurring. When the problem
goes away, the lamp goes off. Other types of problems will turn the
light on, and it will remain on until the fault is diagnosed and
repaired.
The Check Engine lamp has proven to be a great
annoyance to many motorists (as well as many professional technicians)
because it seems to have a mind of its own. For one thing, it doesn't
tell you anything about the nature of the problem. It might be something
serious - or it might not. There's no way to tell without plugging in a
scantool, such as AutoTap.
Consequently, many motorists ignore
the warning light and keep on driving if they don't hear, feel or smell
anything unusual (even then, some continue to push onward until things
get worse or the engine dies altogether). It's amazing the lengths some
people will go to just to avoid a quick diagnosis when the Check Engine
lamp is on. Many people don't really want to know what's wrong with
their vehicles because they fear it will end up costing them several
hundred dollars to get it fixed. So they'll put tape over the lamp,
attempt to disconnect the bulb or cut the wires to the bulb - in an
attempt to make it go away. But engine performance problems don't go
away and they don't fix themselves. And for motorists who live in areas
with vehicle emission testing, the day of reckoning arrives sooner or
later since modern emissions testing uses a scantool to check if the
Check Engine lamp is on, and if the light has been tampered with.
Whenever the Check Engine light comes on, a "diagnostic trouble code"
(DTC) is also recorded in the on-board computer's memory that
corresponds to the fault. Some problems can generate more than one fault
code, and some vehicles may suffer from multiple problems that also set
multiple codes.
Sounds like you could have gotten some water in your fuel tank from that fill up. Go to a autoparts store and get a product to put in the tank that takes care of water in fuel. Use it when you fill the tank up a few times after and hopefully it goes away. Whenever you can't sustain power in the engine or it runs rough then your cruise control will constantly be shut off because the engine doesn't have the power to keep the speed up and should go away once your engine is running clean again.
Sounds like the ground wire for the battery is not making clean contact. Trace that wire and clean both ends and the area it connects to the engine block. Good luck!
Hi if the coolant sensor is not working that would give you cutting out its up by the theremostate at the front of the engine.with two wires runing to it.
Hi Marty!Havent get the code from my dealer yet!Will try to get in contact on Freeday.You will hear from me than!Per Rasmussen.
×