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Re: Maytag top load clothes washer tub spins hard
Hi, You can unsnap the plastic splash ring and see if something is between the tubs. The inner tub turns rather hard anyways. The agitator might have a 1/4" screws in the side of it to hold it onto the shaft of the transmission. If not, just pull the agitator up real hard. Under the agitator is a spanner nut that holds the inner tub in place. I hope this helps you. Please let me know if I can assist you further.
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Hi Older top load washers use a belt to drive to transfer the energy from motor to drum. However, if the belt slips, stretches, or breaks, it can cause friction and a burning smell, most likely a burning “rubber” smell. The belt is located either from the back access panel or from the underside of the washer. The solution is to replace the belt with a new one. To replace the belt you can open the back lid of the washer To replace the belt carefully pry up on front washer top to release plastic keeper pins, remove 2 Phillips screws from beneath lower front washer panel, slightly lift upward on panel to release. Now remove old broken belt, push new belt beneath large tub pulley and put belt on small motor pulley. After this push back belt tension /idler arm, start belt on large tub pulley, turn tub pulley by hand to run belt on, release tension on idler arm. Replace front panel and lower top.
Please check this diagram for the part number F28(drive belt)--
Likely a burned belt. Tilt machine back and belts are underneath machine. Always replace them as a set. At right front is pump pulley. Turn it by hand to be sure it's not bound up.
Secondly run hand up the inner tub to the top until you find a finger wide space at the top of the tub between the tub and the upper tub cover. Stick your fingers as far into that space as possible and run them 360 degrees all the way around the top of the inner tub. This checks for clothing that may have gone over the top of the tub and gotten caught there. This occurrence and something caught in the pump can burn belts.
Lastly, if the first two tests don't reveal a problem, replace both belts and test the machine again with agitate and spin to see if belt is overheated again. If not, you have fixed problem. If so, you likely have a problem beyond your abilities and the value of the machine.
If the washer doesn't reach it's proper spin speed, the clothes may be wet at the end of the cycle. Since you have replaced the belt, it could be that you have a worn motor pulley or tub bearing. Check for damage to the pulley and shaft and for free play. Also make sure that there are no clothes or foreign objects caught between the inner and outer tubs or something causing friction on the drive train. Hope this helped.
You are right on about the belt. If the tub every gets jammed by a full load and has trouble turning, the drive belt can get heated up ( kind of like spinning tires on the road...you get a smell and everything still works). I would suggest pulling the front cover to expose the belts...look underneath. There are usually two one for the drive and one for the pump. I'd replace them both... with extreme heat, it can change the belt enough that it won't operate correctly with bigger loads. K
The top of the washer lifts up like a car hood after two clips between the top and the front panel are pushed with a putty knife. Once the top is flipped open, the screws that hold the front panel in place at the top can be removed and the panel lifted off. The belt may be bad or something may be stopping the belt like a bad pump. Or the transmission drive pulley and bearing may be going bad. If the bearings above the transmission drive pulley fail the brake will not release correctly in the spin cycle causing weak, slow or no spin. The belt & pulley system can be accessed by tipping the washer back. The belt is routed around all three pulleys under the washer and is fairly loose until the motor starts. It is the torque of the motor that gives the belt tension. Leaking or loud "jet engine" sound in spin indicates a bad main tub seal at the outer tub which has caused the spin bearing to fail. This is a complicated repair as the inner and outer tubs need to be removed from the washer to access and replace the seal and bearing components.
ok lets see here;your transmission can go in two directions.if you turn the middle pully one way it will agaitate if you turn the oppisit direction you can watch [from under neath]the brake raise as the cam seperates and lifts the brake.now with the brake lifted ,your tub should spin.if its not lifting the brake you need a new center pully kit[i have had to do many]it comes with washers ,bearings and cams.if the brake lifts and your tub still wont spin you may have a pice of clothing between the two tubs[i had that one to,many times]i hope that helps.you can email thru fixya if need more advice God bless ,tom
sounds as if perhaps the hummm is coming form the drain pump not the motor, remove the front cover and you ll be able to acess the drain pump resivior, unscrew it and you find all sorts if things jammed into the pump preventing free spinning, 7 years servicing this unt never saw a bad motor, 1000's of pumps
sounds like perhaps the trannsmission has locked up and is not spinning freely, therfore the belt is meeting resistance and not turniing.( try turning the trans. pullley( where the bsck of belt is wound)does it turn freely??? try turning the tub from inside does it spin at all??? before i condemn the tranny i would check for article of clothing fallling between the tubs, holding from spinning, also ive seen (nails/screws/bra underwires,etc..) poke through onr of the holes with in the tub abd stuck to the outer tub also preventing the tub from spinning, look closely to all the inner basket holes!!!