I can't get a clean tone and there is very little volume on the drive channel. I can still get some reverb but little. The tubes are all plugged in and they all appear to be working but whether they are working correctly I don't know. I don't use the drive channel so its like not having an amp!!
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First, plug it in. Next connect the speakers. Center all eq controls both master and channel. Turn off any reverb or effects. Turn the master volume 1/2 way up. Plug a sound source into channel 1 wiyj the channel volume all the way off. Turn on the amp. Slowly raise the channel volume until you heat output. If you get nothing, it's broken.
The reverb should be quite strong. I would first look at the reverb volume pot R42 which is a 50K pot. I would also check the voltages on the test points near U4 (TLO-72 op amp tp13 and tp14) which amplifies the signal coming out of the box. It is possible the box has low power levels as well. The problem is going to be around that section of the board if it isn't a dirty or dead(ish) pot.
The reverb should be noticeable enough to be annoying ;-]
For the Drive channel you need to use the Drive control AND the MASTER volume control. When the Drive channel is active, the Channel Indicator lamp should be RED indicating the Drive Channel is active. The Drive control knob is used to adjust the preamp volume and distortion level of the Drive Channel. This gives you a clue as to what to check if adjusting the controls doesn't work -- the preamp tubes. Having said that, ONLY try to check these tubes with the amp OFF! Never stick your hand up into the chassis of a live amp. It could be lethal. Your preamp tubes are the ones farthest from where the power cord enters the chassis. They have a rubber like stabilizer on them. They have a tendency to wiggle loose, which is part of the reason for the stabilizer. Again, if you're not familiar with the insides...stay out and get an amp tech to help you.
The Normal Channel only uses the Volume Control to adjust volume.
There are FOUR controls that affect the volume of signals going through plus the tone controlling ones.
You used the word "volume". Based on the schematic, and assuming you are talking about the control labeled "Volume" and not reverb, master or drive, I can give some hints.
OFTEN the resistance element in pots MAY have a bit of overtravel which can act like your unit, but USUALLY not as far upscale as yours appears..
If the control you are refering to is not the "Volume" but one of the others, then there are other things to look at.
The action you describe would be one of probablly an inverse signal leaking through and when you go up to 1.5 you are actually cancelling the leakage.
I SUSPECT you may have a cracked circuit board in the vicinity of the input jacks that is leaking the inverse phase of the input past the input triode tube stage.
Board cracks OFTEN occur near input jacks because people trip over cords... (save yourself by running cord through a handle before plugging in the plug)
This should be easy to find. Connect an audio generator to the input and use a scope to find the problem. Without a scope, use a capacitor to "ground out" suspected signal paths.
On the schematic they show a resistor (10 ohms) from ground near the input to the pot bracket. I have personally SEEN capacitive coupling to pot brackets feeding into the amps from this source sending in stray signals.
If this is connected to other equipment, a ground loop could cause problem, so test with nothing but the guitar connected.
i am guessing on what the problem is , the post is very vague. i am guessing a channel switching issue. you need to check the "sugar cube" looking power resistors solder welds. they are probably cracked and arent making good contact. if you tap on the amp it will cut in and out, its probably these two resistors. they are usually 470ohm 5 watt cement resistors. what happens is they get real hot, and as they cool down they crack the little solder welds. i usually replace them with new and keep them floating up over the pcb to help them stay cool and off of the board to prevent further solder weld cracking, stock they are real close to the board. then put a little silicon under the resistor to hold it in place and to keep it still on the board. i just fixed a blues deluxe with this issue. while you are in there, cut out the resistor sitting right behind the reverb pot, this will make the reverb awesome. also solder the mid pot center leg to the mid pot leg that comes off of the bass pot leg to get better midrange control. very easy mods. check the master volume pot, is it a B100K? pull it and put an A250k in its place for better volume control. bias pots , etc. check my website yostamplifier.com.
Your amp has two channels - "normal" and "drive." When you are on the normal channel, the "volume" knob controls your gain. In the "drive" channel, the drive knob controls your gain. In both channels, the "master" knob limits how loud the amp will get.
Most likely, you are on the drive channel, so the volume knob will have no effect. Try pushing the "channel select" switch. You should notice the channel indicator lamp (next to the drive knob) turn off. When it is off, you are in the normal mode. Yellow = drive, and red = "more drive."
Experiment with different settings to get a variety of tones.
To get the most out of this amp, try reading the manual, available online here: http://www.fender.com/support/manuals/pdfs/manuals_elec/guitarpdf/Hot_Rod_Deluxe.pdf
Here is an article that might help:http://www.guitarplayer.com/article/reverb-troubleshooting/jun-09/97165 Here is the schematic:http://www.fender.com/support/amp_schematics/pdfs/Hot_Rod_DeVille_Schematic.pdf Check to see if someone hasn't reversed the input and output cables at the reverb tank. Then troubleshoot the reverb section .
There are 2 channels, Which means there are 2 sets of knobs ... One for clean and one for crunch. Start out with a low master volume and set up the crunch, Then the clen and switch between the 2 and make adjustments until they match volume wise ... Then turn the master up.