Question about GE DBSR453GBWW Gas Dryer

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Light in dryer only lasts a few days. Verified the voltage at bulb socket is 120 VAC. Replacement bulbs are 120 VAC.

Light in dryer only lasts a few days. I checked the voltage and it is 120 VAC. The replacement bulbs are 120 VAC.

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Hi, are you replacing them with appliance bulbs and not regular house bulbs?
Vic

Posted on May 27, 2009

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First, test the bulb you just installed to make sure it works. Assuming it is a 110-120v bulb, you should be able to do this with any standard lamp in the house. If it's good, next test the socket in the dryer to make sure it has electricity going to it. Do this with a multi-tester and please be careful -- this is a live circuit. Set the tester to its highest AC Voltage setting. Touch the center "button" of the socket and with the other tester probe, touch the outer screw-in shell. It should show 110 to 120 volts. If no power, you'll need to break into the back and make sure all wires going to the socket are connected . . . which may have become jostled.

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Hi, Anonymous if your headlight is not working, only one beam works, keeps burning out, blinking, or is dim the first thing you need to check is the headlight bulb for damaged filaments then check your light circuit fuse, then check your head light bulb socket ground wire for a clean tight connection, that being said the usual suspects are:
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Light does not work even with a new bulb


GET A MULTIMETER CHEK FOR THE LIGHT SOCKET PIN IF YOU HAVE 120 VAC THOSE PINS ARE NOT MAKING CONTACT WITH LIGHT BULB IF NOT VOLT OUT REMUVE THE INTERLOCK SWITCH CHECK FOR CONTINUITY IF NOT CONTINUITY ON THE SWICH REPLACED THE SWITCH..

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I have a hitachi 55vs69 projection television. Lately, it has been shutting down every 15 minutes or so. The screen turns dark but you can still hear video until about a couple minutes later the led light...


Hi,

First step is to unplug the 120 vac power for a few minutes to clear any corrupted data that may be present in the controller circuits.

If a "power" reset doesn't help and the lamp or bulb is installed correctly, you most likely have a failed replacement bulb. The symptoms are all standard indications of a failed bulb.

Reduced lamp life can be caused by:
  1. Lightning and other 120 vac power bumps.
  2. Collisions with vacuum cleaners or other incidental impacts while the TV bulb is operating.
  3. Starting the TV without a complete cool down. Bulb will consume a small amount of mercury with each start. Excessive consumption occurs when bulb is "Hot" and turned on.
  4. Wrong bulb installed as replacement.(Philips original replaced with Osram or El Cheapo)
  5. Poor quality or damaged bulb installed as replacement.
  6. Bulb damaged during replacement
  7. Bulb installed incorrectly at replacement.
Almost all Hitachi 55vs69 "No Picture" failures are related to the bulb.

Many of our service events are with customers that purchased El Cheapo bulbs from "shopping cart" websites or picked up a bulb from a small "local" TV shop. Many small shops stock of 3 or 4 bulbs and try to substitute or cross reference to fit more than 200 models of TVs from 7 different manufacturers. If a premature bulb failure occurs, they have the opportunity to sell you some expensive service.

Go here to see all of the different Hitachi TV bulbs that are available in Canada.

Find Your Lamp
Use the correct bulb for your model and if you are uncomfortable with the replacement procedure, get local service.


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Low voltage only or can timer be used for 110 v


1 hp= 750 watts
125 vac = 125 volts alternating current, wall outlets
5 amp= 5amps

125vac x 5amps= 625 watts

a timer is a switch with a clock on it. just like a switch in a lamp cord.

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I had to replace the 7 volt light bulb in the dryer. Lowes gave me a 6 volt and the bulb blew. No with a 7 volt it does not work. Do I have to re-wire or is there a reset switch on it somewhere?


no reset check the bulb holder wiring for 120 volts to the socket
if 120 present unplug the dryer and inspect the socket for problems

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Freezer Light


You can try tapping the light switch (snapping it on and off) to see if that helps but this usually would require a voltage checker or multimeter to test for 120 volts at the socket of the bulb. If you're not comfortable with electrical stuff, don't stick test leads into a live socket... Basically you will somehow need to determine if the switch is the problem by pulling it out and testing for voltage, etc. Some models have a thermal overload to kill the power to the light if it should stay on for some reason, that could be bad too if you have one installed. This type complaint is hard to resolve unless you have the test equipment to explore where power is or is not.

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