Question about Broan-NuTone FAN CONTROL SWITCH

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Wiring Bathroom light/vent/heater switch with 3 separate controls

I am trying to wire a light/vent/heater switch (3 separate controls) and find that the way I have it wired, I must have the light switch on in order to work the fan or heater switches. How can I wire this switch (3 separate on/off controls) so that I can work one at a time (with out the light on)? One foot note: This new switch replaces the old switch that was also a 3 way switch. Thanks for any help you all can provide!

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  • sahend9 May 11, 2010

    how about a two function control switch and black and white wires no red

  • Todd McCormick May 11, 2010

    Oh I'm sorry I miss read you don"t need wire you just need to know how to hook up the switch! what color are the screws on the switch?

  • Anonymous Mar 29, 2014

    Light won't work

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Wiring a bathroom combination vent, heater, light 3 way switch means more wires. In brief, you need to run two cables - one a two wire and one a three wire from the switch to the fan.

Incoming power will have white black and ground.

The two wire cable for the switch to the fan will have wht, blk, and ground.

The three wire will have red, blk, wht, and grnd.

The switch will likely have 2 blacks and a red coming from it, with two blacks and a red on one side, and a single black on the other.

The fan should have a red, blue, green, black, and white.

On the fan end: Group all green/copper grounds together and use a wire nut to fasten them together. Tape the nut to the wires.
There will be five white wires coming through. For ease of handling, using wire nuts, connect two on one nut and three on the other.
connect the blue to a blck. Connect one red to one black, and the other red to the other black.

The switch will have one red going into the 3 wire cable, a black going to the 3 wire cable, and a black form incoming power to the side opposite the 3 wires, and a blck going to the two wire cable.

There. Confused?

Posted on May 28, 2009

  • jrs619 Jan 08, 2011

    who's on first, no who's on second, who's on third

  • Luis Ayala Sep 03, 2011

    This is my weekend project, sumthn you just don't try without sum research!!! LOl!

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Hi *****,

I'm an electrician and can help you with this problem. First - shut off the power. Check your wiring as I describe the connections below.

If this is the only switch operating the fan and light, it should be wired as a single pole in the direction sheet. That is as follows:

1) one black wire - it should be connected to the "hot" power source, 2) one green wire - it should be connected to the bare / green ground wires & switchbox (if metal), 3) one red wire - it should be connected to the fan hot wire, 4) one yellow wire - it should be connected to the light hot wire, the remaining wires (yellow with a "3 way label" and red with a "3 way label") should not be connected to anything and capped with a wirenut.

The wiring changes if you are using a second switch to operate either the fan or light (download & view the wiring diagram provided here to follow along with my text). In this case, the hot wire from the fan or light would connect to the black screw of a standard 3 way switch, and the remaining two terminal screws on the switch would connect to the red / red with 3 way label - or yellow / yellow with 3 way label pair. Power and ground wiring on the dimmer black and green are the same as the single pole wiring described above.
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Hi Carl

I'm an electrician and can help you with this problem. It sounds like you've got a "3 way" circuit - that is; you control the light with 2 or more switches (assuming all three wires were not connected to each other - but had individual connections to three screws or three wires on the dimmer).

If this is the case, you need to replace the dimmer with a 3 way switch. A 3 way switch has 4 terminals - one is a green hex-headed screw for ground, 2 others are golden or brass screws for the black wires and fianlly a black or significantly darker screw that is for your red hot wire.

A 3 way switch has no ON or OFF markings on the handle. If the replacement switch has such markings, or has only 3 screws (ground and two golden or brass colored screws) it is likely a single pole switch; and will not work with the other switch(es) to control the light. You will need to obtain a 3 way switch before continuing and wire it as described above.

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I have a 1990 sundance my backup lights and heater blower doesnt work. when i put the car in reverse the brake light and airbag light comes on and when i try the heater blower it does the same so if any...


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I have a 1755 3 rocker switch, http://communities.leviton.com/docs/DOC-1920, that I'm trying to install in place of an older switch. Here are the pictures for both, the new switch and old one:...


Ledio, I am unable to access specific photos on Picassa
https://plus.google.com/106982528064073343888/posts

I have downloaded instruction manual for 1755 rocker switch
This is ordinary triple-rocker-switch to control 3 different loads.
It is like having 3 single pole switches and each switch controls a separate light (Load)
This is single pole switch for 120Volt, and not suited necessarily for 240Volt loads.
Switch is not for 3-way application as typically found in hallway where 2 switches control same light.

1) You have 4 wires.
Electricians don't guess, they test.
There are 4 types of wires in 120Volt and 240V household wiring: Hot wire, Neutral wire, Load wire, and ground wire.
Load wire means the wire that connects to switch and goes to Light, fan, motor (load)
Hot wire always connects to one side of switch.
Neutral never connects to switch.
Load wires connect to side of switch opposite Hot wire.
Bare copper ground wire connects to any green ground screw.

2) One-and-only-one wire in each 120Volt electrical box is Hot. (assuming you are not replacing
3-way switch or working with 240V)

3) Separate all 4 wires for testing. Tape tester leads to wood sticks. Turn power ON.
Test each wire to bare ground wire. Tester will light up on Hot wire.

4) Hot is identified. Next, find the neutral wire if it is among the 4 wires.
Test Hot wire to all other wires in box, except bare ground wire.
Tester will light up on neutral wire.
Tester will not light up on Load wires.

5) NOT EVERY switch box has a neutral. Or the neutral wires can be twisted together and covered with wire nut and pushed to back of box.
The neutral may be up in the light fixture. Neutral located in ceiling box is typical with bathroom fan-light-heater combos.
If neutral is not one of the 4 wires, then don't worry about the neutral connection because it will already be wired together.

6) Image of 1755 switch shows 1 screw terminal on the Hot side, so connect Hot wire to this single screw.
Other side of switch has 3 screws for connecting each of 3 Load wires.
Note: Neutral wire is NEVER connected to a switch.
http://www.frostelectric.com/WOE-IMAGES/00381764.jpg

7) Since I cannot see wiring project or know what loads or how the testing comes out, I suggest connect the Hot wire to single screw terminal.
And then connect 1 of the other wires to other side of switch. Not a neutral.
Turn power ON, and try switch.
Process of elimination might yield result.

8) Add a comment with more question, and it sends e-mail. I will respond.
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http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-Cooper-277-pilot-light-switch.html
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The switch that you have works like 3 seperate switches. most of these switches will have gold screws
on one side and silver screws on the other side, lets say that the left is gold and the right is silver, and
the switch may also have a green screw for ground. your 12/2 with ground is your main hot, you may
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to your heater either another pair of 12/2s or a 12/3, each side of the switch that has one silver screw,
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to the heater you would have to run a12/2 you would not use the black only the white and ground.
remember the white-neutral coming from the switch will be tied to all the whites at the vent,light,heater
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I wish we had more information to go on here.

1) You have 2 cables to to the Heat-Vent-Light
One cable is 12-3 and 1 cable is 12-3

2) That's where it's gets fuzzy.
What color wires are on HentVentLight?
Is power at the ceiling box or at the wall box?
What other wires are inside the wall box?
What kind of switch are you installing?

3) With that number of wires, it sounds like power is at ceiling box.
Power would arrive at ceiling box on one cable that has a Hot-black and Neutral-white wire.

4) Start at wall box:
Let's suppose you are installing a wall device that has 3 individual switches, with one switch for each HentVentLight.
The Hot wire from ceiling box would drop down into wall box on a black wire, and this wire connects to brass screw on switch.
Wire going to heater connects to one of the silver screws.
Wire to fan to another silver screw
Wire to light to another silver screw.

5) Work at ceiling box:
Let's suppose your HentVentLight has 4 wires: Black for light, Red for fan, Blue for heater, and White Neutral.
The white neutral connects to Neutral wire as described in #3.
Black, Red and Blue connect to each of the wires that come up from switch.

Add a comment for more free help, and fill in the missing information.

Also take advantage of fixya phone service.
For a price, expert speaks with you over phone while you work on timer or any do-it-yourself project.
Fixya is always less expensive than a service call.

Feb 01, 2011 | Broan-NuTone FAN CONTROL SWITCH

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