Question about Carrier 38CKC018 Air Conditioner

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A/C Unit shutdown, won't turn back on

I disconnected the thermostat for painting, and didn't turn off the breaker.  At one point two of the wires shorted together, then I wire nutted them all separately.  When I hooked the thermostat (non-battery powered) back up, the screen wouldn't come on.  I got a new thermostat (battery powered), and the screen works, and measures the temperature, but it won't turn the unit on.
I checked the box at the condenser outside, and pulled out what I thought were fuses, but upon closer inspection, looks more like 2 copper plates acting as jumpers that connect the hot and neutral lines in from the breaker to the hot and neutral to the condenser.  
I'm stuck.  Are these fuses, and I'm just missing it, or do I have a different problem?  Please help!     

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When you removed the stat cover without turning off the power the low voltage transformer shorted when the wires touched.
Replace the lv transformer in the air handler.

Posted on May 26, 2009


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How do i change out the bake element in this oven?

Although I am not an appliance repairman, I have an extensive background in repairing a variety of electrical/electronic equipment.

It helps to understand the physics at work in the oven...heat. The heating element gets very hot, turning to a red glow during the cooking process. Metal, such as copper wiring, expands when heated. Screw terminations near the heating element would work loose (due to the heating and cooling cycles) over time and begin to arc, which would eventually destroy the connection. Therefore, the wiring is probably crimped on to the heating element.

There are two probably solutions. One- cut the wires at the heating element and attach the new element with crimp sleeves rated for the oven heat. Two- follow the wires to their termination point in the back of the unit and disconnect them. This will probably be screw connections. This requires a new heating element with the corresponding wires.


Jul 19, 2012 | Amana ACF4225AS Electric Kitchen Range

1 Answer

The motor is running but it is not generating electricity.

Here's a link to your manual:

No power is a result of a break in the output circuit of the generator. The most likely places for this to happen are at connection points and moving parts designed to open and close manually and automatically. These include terminal screws and push on type connectors, switches and circuit breakers.

Before beginning, you should follow the troubleshooting chart for "..No AC Output" on Page 21 of the manual.

Since there is a great deal of vibration on the entire unit, it is not unlikely to have open connections where there shouldn't be. A careful disassembly of the control box with the unit off and disconnected from the electrical panel should allow you to poke around without fear of shock or burns. It would be a good idea to take a picture or two of the connections when you open the box - before disconnecting anything. otherwise, be sure to label wires and terminals for anything you take apart.

Look for evidence of arcing or sparking. This is usually a blackened area near a terminal or wire. Clean the contact area and determine where the connection point is supposed to be and complete the circuit as per the schematic. Check for loose wires "floating" in air (aka not connected to anything). Reconnected as shown by the schematic. Next, apply pressure to all terminals and connectors to find any that are loose. Resecure any found. pay attention to those on DP1, DP2 and the 240 volt 30 amp outlet.

Using the schematic on Page 22, check the 25 Amp circuit breaker identified as CB1 by removing wires 11A and 44A from this circuit breaker's terminals. Use a multimeter set on Ohms (or resistance), set and zero to the lowest range, and test from the terminal with the #11 wire on it to the terminal that had 11A on it. With the circuit breaker ON, it should read less than a couple of Ohms. This is a closed circuit indication. Repeat tests with terminals 44 and 44A. If you lack a meter, you should be able to use a continuity light (this will cause a light to illuminate when there is a good battery in it and there is a connection or path between the probes of the light). The meter resistance should indicate an infinite amount of resistance when the circuit breaker is turned off (as the light should go off when the circuit breaker is turned off, too). This is the open circuit indication. If the meter never indicates a closed circuit with the breaker ON, the breaker should be replaced. If it works as expected, reconnect the 11A & 44A wires to their original terminals.

Continue to test each CB2 and CB3 the same way. Remove wire 11B from the terminal of the circuit breaker and test from wire 11A to the circuit breaker terminal that 11B was connected to. With the breaker ON, it should show as closed circuit. When off it should show open circuit. If not, replace the circuit breaker. Reconnect 11B to the circuit breaker terminal. Lastly, move to CB3 and Remove wire 44B from the terminal of the circuit breaker and test from wire 44A to the circuit breaker terminal that 44B was connected to. With the breaker ON, it should show as closed circuit. When off it should show open circuit. If not, replace the circuit breaker. Reconnect 44B to the circuit breaker terminal.

The rest of the check out requires that the generator is running and voltage measurements be taken. As little as 50 volts can kill under the right conditions, so extreme caution must be exercised. If you have never worked on these systems before or are
not completely comfortable working with voltages levels this great, you should stop at this point. Otherwise, check for the presence of 240 volts on CB1 terminal 11 & 44. If not present, there is a problem with the voltage regulator or generator windings themselves. Repairing or replacing these parts may not be worth doing depending on age of the generator, etc.

I hope this helps & good luck!

Jan 11, 2012 | Briggs Stratton Portable Generator 305cc...

3 Answers here is a strange problem with my Diamond York 90. The AC stays on even if the system is set to off on the Thermostat. I then took the thermostat out and turned on the power switch and guess what...

Hello, you are correct nothing should work with the thermostat disconnected. If the indoor fan continues to run then the relay on the control board is bad and the board must be replaced. If the outside unit continues to run then tne contactor coil is faulty and must be replaced.

Aug 28, 2011 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

Outside unit won't come on. Drain pas appears dry/.

if nothing comes on (on the outside unit) when you turn on AC (and the inside unit runs ok) I would check the fuses and/or the breaker for the outside unit. I would suspect a fuse blown or a breaker tripped. It's also possible that your 'low voltage' (24V) thermostat wire has been cut (by lawn mower) or chewed into (by dog). If the problem is the low voltage wire you can easily splice it back together - just be sure all power is off.

Jun 06, 2011 | Goodman CKL36AR36 Air Conditioner

1 Answer

AC unit will not turn on and will not cool down

The first thing you want to check is all your breakers and disconnects. You should have 2 breakers in your breaker panel, one that runs unit inside and one that runs unit outside. Turn both off and then back on to make sure they are not tripped. Next go to your unit inside and you want to look for a breaker on the unit and/or a disconnect somwwhere in the immediate area. If it is a breaker, reset that, If it is a disconnect, you have a lever on it or, it may have a pull out piece your going to want to pull out and inspect to make sure it doesn't look burnt. It should say "on" on it and maybe an arrow but when properly installed, you should be able to read "on" right side up not upside down. Next, you want to go to the unit outside. It should have a disconnect of the same fashion, so check it also. At this point make sure your thermostat in in the "on" or "auto", auto would be the right setting but, does the unit run? If so, is the unit outside running as well. If only the inside unit runs, you either have a bad thermostat or a bad capacitor or wire in the unit outside, it could be other things with the unit outside but, these are common items. If everything runs, and it is still not cool, again, the thermostat could be bad or it may be time for a charge. Make sure you filter is clean as well because limited air flow acn cause the unit to freeze up and not work.

Jun 05, 2011 | White Rodgers Water Heaters

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{my thermostat was flashing filter} I replaced filter and now air conditioner wont kick out cold air rth230b

Remove the thermostat wires and reconnect wires after 10 minutes. Then check. --------- yellow wire on thermostat is for cooling.Disconnect the yellow wire bolt remove yellow wire and then see if AC works will yellow wire unplugged..If its works that means the Thermostat is the issue.It has to be replaced. On some newer honeywell thermostats.there is blue wire instead of yellow wire.The connection is same, but blue wire is there instead of yellow wire.In that case disconnect blue wire and then see if AC works with blue wire disconnected. ---------- Check this.This will help.Thanks.Helpmech.

Jun 07, 2011 | Honeywell Heating & Cooling

2 Answers

My 40 gallon whirlpool electric water heater stopped working today

The thermostat (either the upper or lower if it has two thermostats) has an integral circuit breaker that trips if a problem occurs. First try resetting the breaker. Look for a red button in the middle of the thermostat (which will most likely be behind a metal panel. BE SURE to shut of the breaker in the electrical panel that serves the water heater.

The water heater should start to heat up if the thermostat breaker doesn't trip right away. However, if the breaker on the thermostat trips again at any time, there is most likely a short in the thermostat and it needs to be replaced.

They two thermostats are not identical. The upper unit typically has three wire connections while the lower unit only has two.
If you find that one of the units must be replaced, ensure that you get the proper replacement. Then, you should mark the wires and their connection points and then disconnect them. The thermostat can then be slid out of the clasp that holds it to the tank. Slide the replacement in and reconnect the wires and ensure that they are tight.

You should complete your water heater thermostat replacement by turning the power to the unit back on. Observe the proper operation of the water heater and ensure that the thermostat is set at the desired temperature. (The temperature should normally be set at 120 degrees to save energy and avoid burns.)

Only you know your level of ability. Water heaters are high voltage and draw a high amp load. If you feel you cannot safely perform this work, do not attempt it. Call a plumber instead.

Hope this helps.

Apr 27, 2011 | Whirlpool Water Heaters

1 Answer

Everytime my central air unit kicks on my circuit breaker trips. It didn't do this last year or even earlier this year

A circuit breaker 'tripping' everytime the AC unit kicks on 'most always' indicates a direct short (somewhere in the condensing unit), although it is possible that the breaker itself is bad - (but not likely).

Usually the cause of this 'short' will be - either the condenser motor in the condensing unit (outside unit) or the compressor - also in the condensing unit.

If you're mechanically inclined - and "very careful" around electricity - there is a fairly simple way to find out which component is causing the short.

Step 1 - Make sure the condensing unit (outside unit) is completely disconnected (electrically) , i.e. pull the fuses/turn off circuit breaker on outside unit and turn off thermostat.

Step 2 - disconnect the condenser motor (this is the outside fan motor). Note: when you disconnect the wires of the condenser motor "be sure" you mark/write their location, and wrap them in electric tape.

Step 3 - start the AC unit. If the breaker trips again you can pretty much rest assured it's the compressor that is shorted.

To prove it (without a doubt) - go to next step.

Step 4 - "be sure circuit breaker and thermostat is turned off" - and - 'reconnect' the condenser motor - and - then disconnect the compressor wires (mark wires and tape them).

Step 5 - Start AC.

If breaker doesn't trip - you know it's the compressor that is shorted.

If breaker 'does' trip again - then it's possible the breaker itself is bad (not likely) or there is a 'short' in the condensing unit's "wiring" somewhere (not likely).

My guess is that either the condenser motor or compressor is shorted.

Hope this helps.

Good Luck!

Jun 10, 2010 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

Outside unit will not turn off

A couple of things can cause this;
the contactor points in the outdoor unit are pitted and sticking together, take the handle end of a screwdriver and tap the contactor, or turn off the breaker and see if the contactor points open. This problem can be frustrating as it can be hit and miss.
Even after this, if it is still running, disconnect the 2 thermostat wires, if it shuts off, you might have thermostat wires touching each other behind the thermostat.
Give this a try,
Good Luck.
Paul Gibson

Apr 06, 2010 | Heating & Cooling

2 Answers

Central air conditioner doesn't turn on... Any suggestions?

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Jan 18, 2006 | Haier Energy Star ESA3183 Air Conditioner

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