Question about GE GSH22KGR Side by Side Refrigerator
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Not cold enough
I opened the bottom panel at the back of the fridge and cleaned the coil because it was completely covered with dust and lints and less than an hour later the fridge side temp started going down and the freezer took five hours for the temp to start going down when we didn't open it for that much time. It's back to factory setting now and thanks for the blogs that I read that I was able to try different possibilities. Your site is very helpful.
Posted on Mar 21, 2009
if the compressor is running your ref. should be getting cold. Their is a defrost timer but when it is in defrost the compressor shuts off. I think you do have a leak.
any further question let me know.
Posted on Mar 31, 2009
It's not cool
If the refrigerator isn't cool, you need to answer some questions, then see if the compressor is running.
First, answer these questions:
The compressor is a football-sized case with no apparent moving parts. It's on the outside of the refrigerator at the back near the bottom. If it is humming or making a continuous noise and your refrigerator is still not cooling, there may be a more serious problem with one or more of several different components, we recommend contacting a qualified appliance repair technician for further help.
If the compressor is not running but you do have power to the refrigerator, there may be a problem with one or more of these:
Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils or a condenser that is clogged with dust, lint, and dirt.
Evaporator coils Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets.
The refrigerator is supposed to self-defrost approximately four times in every 24 hour period. If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited.
Here's an inexpensive, though inconvenient, way to determine if the problem is with the self-defrosting system. Remove all of the perishable food from the refrigerator and freezer, turn the thermostat in the refrigerator to Off, and leave the doors open for 24 to 48 hours. (Be sure to have several towels ready in case the melting frost and ice causes the drip pan to overflow). This allows the refrigerator to defrost "manually." When the frost and ice build-up has completely melted away, turn the thermostat back to a normal setting. If the refrigerator then cools properly, it indicates a problem with one of three components in the self-defrosting system:
Condenser Self-defrosting refrigerators all have a set of coils and a cooling fan, usually under the refrigerator, that need to be cleaned regularly. If these coils get coated with dust, dirt or lint, the refrigerator may not cool properly. The coils may appear to be a thin, black, wide radiator-like device behind the lower kick-panel. To clean them, disconnect the refrigerator from the power source, use a refrigerator condenser brush (see the Appliance Accessories section) and your vacuum cleaner to clean the coils of any lint, pet hair, etc. You may not be able to get to all of the condenser from the front, it may be necessary to clean the remainder of the condenser from the rear of the refrigerator. I feel heat/warmth on the front edge of my refrigerator....why?
Older refrigerators had electric heaters on the edges of the refrigerator cabinet to help prevent moisture from building up, especially in the hot/hazy weather in the summer time. These electric heaters usually had a switch where you could turn them on or off...had words like..."switch here to prevent moisture"...switch here in damp weather".... in the picture it is in the top left of the control assembly.
Then along came the energy crunch. The manufactures stopped using the electric heaters and started running a pass of the hot condenser tubing on the edges of the cabinet where the electric heaters use to be. This is often called ayoder loop tube SxS version and the yoder loop tube Top freezer version. This has now replaced the electric heaters. If you feel heat/hot around the door opening of your refrigerator you should....
- clean the condenser coils as a dirty condenser can make the tubing hotter than normal
- check/clean & replace if necessary the condenser cooling fan ( # F ) motor, if the condenser fan motor is slow or has quit the yoder loop pass will get very warm/hot to the touch
- If the condenser coils are clean and the condenser fan motor is running ok, check the fresh food and freezer section temperatures...if the refrigerator is not operating well and the temps inside are warming up, you could feel more heat/warmth than normal
Posted on Apr 03, 2009
Faulty Cold control (Temperature Control)
The cold control is a temperature actuated switch and should open when the set temperature has been achieved. If the control does not open and turn the compressor off, it will continue to run and all items in the fresh food section will begin to freeze.
If the control is not closing, the compressor and all fans will cease to operate. Check the control for continuity.
This is usually not a do it your selfer.
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Posted on Apr 25, 2009
Setting the control to 9 may make the freezer ice up too much to work right. You can start with a manual defrost. That takes a long time, because the ice is below the freezer liner, stuck in the coils. You'll have to move your food elsewhere, like a cooler. I always take the freezer apart to get at the coils, use a hair dryer to melt the ice. Then you can check the defrost coil, it's like a toaster element. After all that, check the defrost timer too. It's usually down by the compressor area, about the size of a cell phone. It has a small dial on it that only turns one way. Mark it when the fridge is on with whiteout to see if it moves. It moves real slowly, so you will have to wait a half hour or so.
One way to speed up a defrost is to turn the dial on the defrost timer until it clicks. Then the compressor will turn off and the defrost coil will turn on. The freezer fan should be spinning. Feel the output from the freezer fan- anything? If no flow, you're iced up. Keep checking for flow, eventually it should get cold. When you get good airflow, and maybe it's not so cold anymore, you might be defrosted without having to take the whole thing apart. You may have to turn the dial more than once, if the compressor comes back on before you're defrosted. You can help the defrost with your hair dryer thru the vents in the front of the freezer, but not too hot, you don't want to melt any plastic.
Posted on Apr 25, 2009
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