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Ac unit cools entire home except for one bedroom

We have had the electric air handler removed and replaced, enlarged return air and added a new 24x20 filter return air grill, adjusted all vents and checked in attic for a possible kink in the ductwork. Master bedroom is same size as the guest bedroom however it is 5 degrees warmer. The rest of the house is quite comfortable. We have spent almost $1000.00 with ac so called specialists and are so frustrated.

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  • steve
    steve May 11, 2010

    Factors to consider are,
    distance from air handler.
    duct size to room.
    number of ducts to room.
    location of ducts in room.
    windows in room.
    southern exposure of windows.
    wall and attic insulation to room.
    return air from the room.
    cfm to room.
    partially closed damper to room.
    Can you answer these queries?


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The issue may not be confined to airflow alone. An air conditioner makes us more comfortable through two basic rules of physics.
It removes sensible heat (the temperature you feel) and removes moisture from the air. Dry air enhances the bodies own cooling system allowing perspiration to evaporate more quickly which speeds the removal of heat from the body, this is why 85 and dry feels more comfortable than 72 moist degrees.

to ensure the ducts are balanced properly one must use an anemometer which is a tool used to calculate airflow by the pro's. Being that most homeowners do not have access to one there are some good observations to make using a pocket thermometer and your own senses:

  1. Ensure the guest room vent is the same size as the master bedroom.
  2. Ensure the supply duct for the suspect vent is the same diameter and approximate distance from the main plenum (where the ducts originate) as the master bedroom.
  3. Is the air emminating from the suspect vent approximately the same in volume as the master bedroom (does it feel and sound the same).
  4. The issue exists even if the guest bedroom door is left open.
  5. The air temperature measured at the vents is within 3-5 degrees of each other.
If 1 - 4 are true check for #5, if # 5 is false make sure the suspect ducting is insulated or covered well by attic insulation.

If 1, 2, 3 or 4 are false: Ensure the following:
  • The guest room ducting does not have a damper hidden under insulation or duct wrap.
  • The duct has not been crushed or restricted.
NOTE: internaly insulated ducts can be restricted on the inside by fallen insulation while appearing normal on the outside.

If #5 is false (issue goes away if the door is left open) the door may need to be cut off a bit more at the bottom or a grill installed to allow the air coming into the room a place to go.

If none of the above reveal the culprit concider the room itelf, it may have a higher heat load than the others.
A higher heat load may be due to dislodged, compacted and or wet insulation in the walls or attic, feel the walls and ceilings with your hands, how does it compare with cooler rooms?
If the walls and ceiling feel about the same and the tests above did not expose an issue its time to call the contractor back in, make sure the static pressure is checked in each duct a foot or so downstream of the the plenum and again just upstream of the vent. A duct with air pressure higher or lower when compared with the others could mean a variety of issues with the duct or where it connects to the plenum.

Posted on May 26, 2009

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I just had 'goodman gpc1336h41ab' 13.00 seer unit installed , I have a 1250 sq. ft. home and it just doesnt seem to be cooling. The unit runs constantly. So my question is , is my unit big enough...


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Generally, you would go from the thermostat to the air handler, and then, from the air handler to the outdoor unit. I don't know if you have a heat pump or not, so I will give you a simple diagram and you can contact me if you need more.

Thermostat : Y G R W and sometimes C
Air handler: Y G R W and C
Outdoor unit: two wires connecting to the contactor ( not heat pump)

Thermostat; Y--------------Y(air handler cooling)------------------one side of contactor, outdoor unit
G-------------G (air handler, fan)
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This is a typical wiring diagram. Just contact me if you have something different. Hope this helps. Stay cool. mark

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If you have a standard thermostat the fan switch is for the air handler only. It completely over rides the thermostat for most settings. Now lets see this is what I'd expect:
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Fan switch auto Indoor fan only runs when thermostat is set to cool or heat and the thermostat is turned up above room temp for heat or below room temp for cooling. In both of these modes the furnace blower comes on and stays on til the room temperature is satisfied. The outdoor unit only comes on for AC the out door unit will not come on for heat or the "on" setting on the thermostat. See exception 1 & 2 below...

Exception 1- (in a heat pump the out door unit runs in both heat and cool mode unless it has emergency heat turned on then it will not come on outside in the heat mode, and depending on the type of heat pump and furnace or air handler it is). A heat pump thermostat usually has "backup heat" and an "emergency heat" setting switch on the thermostat.
Exception 2 - On some thermostats they are made to cycle on the heat if the temperature reaches a preset temp (around 50'f usually but definitely by 40'f). This mode prevents freezing when if instance the homeowner is away or while the home is under construction. In this mode the fan inside can run but the heat usually comes on with it.
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Now there may be other exceptions but Ive tried to give you a heads up on some of the most common ones.
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If this helpd you understand your problem would you please give me as hifgh a mark as you can. Thnaks for using fixya and good luck.

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