The machine was overflowing and I found a rub hole in the pressure sensor tube and have ordered a new one. I used first aid tape to seal up the small hole and I recalibrated the pressure sensor thingy. The washing machine now works fine. Almost.
On all of the cycles which have 'high' water levels, such as Bulky, Sheets/Towels, about half way through the wash cycle (28 minutes left), the machine begins to add fresh water, then agitates a bit, recirculates some water, then adds fresh water. This continues and the machine would overflow if I didn't stop it.
I plan on installing the new pressure hose next week when it arrives. It's possible that other small holes exist in the hose. If the overfilling continues, does this mean the replacement of the machine/motor control assembly? Other tests or reset computer options?
Many thanks in advance. Thanks to whomever posted on another question the link to the service manual for the Whirlpool version.
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Found this -
The Water Level Frequency Sensor operation is based on the displacement of the *coil* attached to the diaphragm.
When the *coil* raises or lowers---it changes the electronically resonant characteristics of the oscillator circuit.
The water level is measured by the Main Board---by frequency readings.
I've never had a failed Water Level Sensor.
It is best tested while on the washer---by using the TEST MODE.
On most LG washers---the Test Mode is enabled by pressing and holding the SPIN SPEED and SOIL LEVEL buttons---and then pressing the POWER button (release all 3 buttons and wait for the door to lock).
Press the START / PAUSE button 4 times at one second intervals (Prewash Cold Water Fill)
The display read-out on the Control Panel will show the *frequency*
Empty---the frequency read-out should be about 255
A tub full of water should show a frequency of about 214 (depending on model number)
Some of the errors that can be displayed---relating to water fill are...
Little or no water---usually caused by a failed Water Valve
Too much water (overflow detected)---Can be a failed/stuck open Water Valve or blockage in the black air tube which is connected to the Water Level Frequency Sensor. Disconnect the tube from the sensor---and blow air back into the tub to clear obstruction.
To test the Water Level Frequency Sensor outside of the washer...
Use a test meter to check the ohms between pins 1 and 3 (should have between 21 & 23 ohms).
Found here - https://appliantology.org/blogs/entry/698-understanding-how-the-water-level-sensor-in-lg-washing-machines-work/
That might be when yall put back the case yall pinched the tubing going back to the water level control. Could be sediment in the tub in which case you simply blow throw the hose and remove all water to the tub and try again. OR the tubing has come off there or gotten a hole in so the air pressure won't build inside it to kick the water switch over to wash mode at the proper water level. Might even be a bad water level switch but I would cheack all the above mentioned before buying any parts.
Message = E2
Error = OVERFLOW ERROR
Cause & Solution =
The water is supplied continuously due to an defective inlet valve. Change the valve inlet.
The valve inlet is normal, but the water level sensor Change the water level sensor
(sensor pressure) is low. (sensor pressure).
The drain motor does not work - Test and if faulty change the drain pump
Message = E9
Error = SENSOR PRESSURE ERROR
Cause & Solution = The water level sensor is faulty. Change the water level sensor.
(remove pressure tube and blow through it to make sure it is clear first)
Since you did not provide a make or model number we are winging it here. Inside the control panel there is a pressure switch that measures the pressure of the water in your machine. This pressure switch has a tube connected to it that would look like a small automotive vacuum line. Either the pressure switch has failed or there is a problem with the line itself as in a hole or a disconnection somewhere. There are only 2 connecting points for that tube one being on the pressure switch itself and the other being on the outside of the base of the wash tub enclosure itself. Most often the pressure switch has failed but occasionally the tube gets chaffed or a pin hole over the life of the unit. One thing to note is if the pressure sensing line has become disconnected at the base of the wash tub your washer will be leaking. If you do not have any visible signs of leakage when the unit is filled with water then the problem mosly likely will be where the line comes through the top panel or connect to the pressure switch. Definately near the top of the washer. Without a make and model it is very difficult to assist you much further.
Sounds like there's a water level sensor problem. The water level sensor works by reacting to the air pressure in a tube connected to the tank. You need to open up the control panel. You may need to remove some screws, but on some machines you can "pop it" by prying it up with a putty knife. You'll find that the water sensor is the back of the knob that controls the water level. If it's a digital machine the sensor will be somewhere else but connected to a clear plastic tube. The first thing you should check is to unplug the tube from the sensor, and blow in it to make it's not just clogged with lint. If the tube flows freely, you'll need to replace to the water level sensor. This is pretty easy to do.
This is most likely caused by a faulty water level switch. The water level switch is a diaphragm like device with a small clear plastic tube attached between the switch and the bottom of the washer's outer tub. As the water level rises, pressure increases on the air in the tube and when the pressure reaches a certain level, it signals the switch to shut off the water and signals the timer to start the agitate cycle. Make sure there are no obstructions in the tube. If the switch is defective, it will have to be replaced. Hope this helped and best wishes.
Water does not enter the pressure hose, air does.
Remove the plastic tube from the air dome on the side of the washer. Use a small piece of wire and clean the soap scum out of the air dome hole. Blow through the plastic tube to hear the water level switch click.
Inspect the plastic tube for a hole or pinched.
If these steps do not work replace the water level switch.
problem caan be the pressure switch. to test it, put on a length of hose, set machine going and use your mouth to pressurize the hose and water should stop. if it doesn't then pressure switch is faulty.
also the pressure switch hose goes to an air chamber and this can be clogged with gunge
If the water continues to flow even when the washer timer and the power to the washer are off then you are right and the water inlet valve has to be replaced. If it does it only when the washer is on then it could be different problems.
In that case the first thing you have to check is the water level switch. This is the device which controls the water level. Remove the power first.Open the control panel and you will see the switch on the left side. There is the clear plastic hose connected to the switch. Make sure the hose is not loose. This is one of the most common cause of overflow. If it got loose, drain out all water from the washer before you reconnect the hose. If this is not the issue then you have to check the continuity across the water level switch therminals. When there is no water you should measure the continuity across therminals 11 and 12 (gray and orange wires). Whet the tub has filled up with water you should measure the continuity across therminals 11 and 14 (gray and light blue wires). If the continuity is wrong replace the water level switch. If you are going to do it, make sure there is no water in the tub before you will remove the clear plastic hose from the old switch.