I'm trying to get my UDG record trolley bag fixed. 1 wheel has blown out and the handle has also snaped off at the top. Apperently Smasonite do repairs but I can't find any contact details anywhere online in Australia.
Anyone that can help me with fixing it myself or finding a repair centre I would be a legend!
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Looking at pictures on line, you'll nee to remove the electronics panel - take out the screws around the rear edge at the back & the 3 at the top, behind the handle / in front of the panel. I would expect the panel to come out thru' the rear..... Be aware of the speaker lead - could be a bit short so you may need to disconnect it. Once the electronics panel (mixer & amp etx) is clear you should be able to get your hand inside / under the handle & undo the bolts. There's a possibility the if the handle is held on with bolts then there could be "blind" or "Tee" nuts under, so undoing the handle screws may be all you need to do? Take care though, because if they're normal nuts they could drop off into the gubbins! Good Luck!
You would need to purchase a replacement fan (you can't repair broken ones). Most peavey mixers disassemble by removing the 2 screws that secure the top handle and then the six xcrews along the top and bottom of the back.
Yes, you need to pad it down. This recorder is likely to accept around a -50 Db and the other sources you mentioned are probably +4 Db. Using a limiter and compressors will result in distortion as your inputs exceed the range those can handle. I would use about a 40 Db pad trial to start. That is a voltage ratio of 1:100. Make yourself a voltage divider with say a 100K and a 1K putting the inout across the series combination and taking the out to the recorder across the 1K.
You will PROBABLY find the 4 screws on the sides that screw into the chassis and then get frustrated that it will not come out... MANY of the Behringer things HIDE the other screws as the ones holding the handle... The trick is to get at them... The plastic end covers over the handle have ridges that snap under a metal plate that is over the handle. Carefully pry out the plastic near the handle to release these ridges... pry SIDEWAYS a bit... The ridges snap into small cutouts in the metal... what a pain these are. Use a small 1/4 inch screwdriver with blade vertical right where the handle comes out to bend the plastic outward... Dont reach in very far as the blade will catch the metal... just far enough to catch the plastic cover edge... it is scary. The two handle screws usually go into nut-plates that are a part of the amp chassis.
The DI consists of two sections of an op amp and is truly driven differentally. There usually is a couple of 120 ohm series resistors and a couple of hf bypass caps near the connectors
Most of the LCD's in these are specially made for the manufacturer of the units... It is UNLIKELY you can find a source for just the LCD... They seem to have specific patterns for the use they were made...
Suggest you try to find a busted unit that the LCD is OK on... maybe Ebay... to rob one off...