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I have the Dacor ECD230 SCH standalone twin ovens. The power is on but one of the two ovens is not heating up. I am wondering where should I start checking the problem. I refered to the manual but it is of no help.

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  • vbhutada May 25, 2009


    Thanks for your quick response. I have two follow-up questions:

    1. Do you know how can I remove the heating element from this oven and check them out?

    As I have twin ovens, I am thinking if I can interchange the heating elements and check. That way, I can isolate the problem.

    2. I have a multimeter. Can I use this to check if the heating element is working or do I need to have only an 'Ohm Meter'?

    Please let me know.



  • vbhutada May 27, 2009


    I tried swapping the heating elements but still the top oven does not work.

    Whereas the bottom oven (that received the heating element from the top oven) continues to work.

    This proves that both the heating elements are fine.

    What should be the next step?

    Please let me know.


  • vbhutada May 28, 2009

    I can't trace the fuse. The oven is kind of 'fixed' in a wooden cabinet and I do not know how to get to the back side, from where the wire for the heating element is coming in.

    Now, I also suspect that it could be the fuse problem (as it had happened once in the past and a technician had fixed it). However, in the absence of any info in the manual, I am unable to locate the fuse. Any tips?

  • vbhutada May 30, 2009

    Thank you so much for guiding me step by step in the right direction. Your help with the technical manual helped me solve the problem. It was a simple thing like resetting the heat switch but I would not have been able to locate it if you did not help me. Appreciate the help with the resolution of the problem with my Dacor wall oven. Thanks a lot!

    Vikas Bhutada


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It's very likely the oven element is faulty, this can be checked using an ohm meter. If the resistance is infinitely high then the element is no good. If the oven that is not heating is showing a higher temperature on the display than what it is then it's the temperature sensor.

Posted on May 25, 2009

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  • Dudeman321 May 25, 2009

    The multimeter will work as an ohmeter you just need tob put it onto the resistance range. This is normaly indicated by the 200, 2000, 20k 200k and 2000k ranges and also the continuity test (little speaker picture). Any one of these ranges would be fine. I'm not sure the exact procedure for this model of oven, but the normal route is to remove the back panel where the fan lives and this will reveal the heating element. Swapping these over would be a smart diagnosis plan. When you swap them over be sure not to let the wires touch each other nor themselves and be double sure the power is off when you are doing any tests/touching anything.

  • Dudeman321 May 27, 2009

    Try and follow the wires to the heating element back to the control board and there should be a fuse there somwhere, see if that is good. (You can use an ohmeter for that) Should measure 0 ohms or there abouts.

  • Dudeman321 May 28, 2009

    There is a high temperature cutout switch that has a reset button, try resetting that and if that does'nt work test it with a multimeter on the resistance x1 position should measure low resistance, you could swap them around from the working side. They are located near the latch assembly. The only other likely problem that could cause this is a bad relay board, the oven would likely have to come out of the cabinet for this, the relay boards are located in the top of the oven behind the front panel. The top needs to be removed for that. Here is a site with diagrams and technical information if it comes in handy:

    hope this info comes in handy.


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