Hi, I would like to build a frame for a cat enclosure similar to the catnets freestanding single enclosure (http://www.catnets.com.au/cat-enclosures.html) and would like to know what length & widt

Build it according to your own measurements and cat needs.

Absolutely. You are going to have to isolate the drummer from the writer somehow.
We used to put the drummer in an isolation booth.
You can also try building a "foamy box" for the CD writer. The kind of foam you want looks flat on one side, and sine wave like on the other. Put the flat sides out.
Build it with just the front open, and run the cables under the recorder and out the front if length allows.
CAUTION: I recommend using this enclosure ONLY when there is a live drum being recorded live.
This is because prolonged enclosure like this may cause heat issues.

TIP: which ever side faces the drummer, the writer should not be touching that foam wall.
IE - if the rear faces the drummer, the box should be big enough that the rear wall doesn't touch the writer.
Good luck, and let me know how that all works out for you!
(hey, it's easier than suspending the writer with elastic or bungee cords!)
[subnote - yes, that works too, but it's a pain in the **** building the metal frame!]

Good!

MOTOR:

21?2 H.P., Hobart designed, high torque ball bearing,

ventilated within mixer enclosure. Single-phase is

capacitor-start, induction-run type.

Three-phase is

polyphase squirrel cage, induction-run type.

Single Phase 208V 20.0 Amps

240V 17.0 Amps

Three Phase 208-240V 8.6 Amps

Hi Walter, what happens when you just plug it in? my drive enclosure does not need drivers as it is a storage device.

Hi,
I've had a look at the JLaudio website and they recommend 2 box designs, a ported and a sealed.
The sealed box needs a volume of:
2.125 ft3 or 60.2 litres.
To get this you would need to build the box to these dimensions:
22" x 16" x 14.75" or 559mm x 406mm x 375mm
The ported box needs a volume of:
3.50 ft3 or 99.1 litres.
To get this you would need to build the box to these dimensions:
24" x 19" x 18" or 610mm x 483mm x 457mm.
The port needs to be:
3.0" x 10.9" or 76mm x 277mm.
The enclosure recommendations listed above are external dimensions which assume the use of 3/4" (19mm) thick material. If you are using 5/8" (16mm) thick material, subtract 1/4" (6.5mm) from each dimension. Do not use any material with a thickness of less than 5/8" (16mm) as this may compromise the rigidity of the enclosure.
• All enclosure volumes listed above are net internal volumes! Driver displacement, port displacement and brace displacement must be added to obtain the final gross internal volume. All enclosure dimensions above have already taken this into acount.
• When using two subwoofers in a common enclosure simply double the required volume and, in the case of a ported enclosure, use two times the recommended port(s). Likewise, when using three subwoofers in a common enclosure simply triple the required volume and, in the case of a ported enclosure, use three times the recommended port(s).
• We recommend the use of this speaker in a bi-amplified system using high-quality satellite speakers and a high-quality amplifier. We do not recommend the use of this subwoofer with a passive crossover (coil), as this type of device will adversely affect performance.
As you can see it all depends on the space you have available, whilst the vented box will give you a more efficient bass responce especially with the low range frequencies.

If you to go and look at the information about your sub woofer and find out all the information about building or buying the correct enclosure then this is the link to the pdf file I found:
The enclosure info is on page 3:
JL AUDIO 15W3 Tech Specs and box info.
Warm regards
Mike

Not all the noise is from exhaust. The mechanics and the telegraphing of sounds via the feul tank and frame are major noise sources as well.

You MIGHT want to consider building a small enclosure, paying attention to venting and fireproofing..

I have heard of people building an enclosure from concrete blocks for this purpose.

You could try the exhaust by adapting with stainless flex pipe to connect to a standard automobile muffler. I have also seen the exhaust "plumbed" into an underground tank to deaden the sound.

Hello kpauten,

Here's a link to an excellent fiberglass forum which includes builds or subwoofer enclosures, kick panels, and other audio enclosures.

There's probably one or more similar to what you have in mind.

Check this link for a materials list and some fiberglassing specifics. The build was a subwoofer box, but the information and procedures should be helpful.

Look at these custom enclosures. They take up minimal cargo space, look good and sound great.

http://i790.photobucket.com/albums/yy185/Baja_BooBoo/SubySU/42-RearViewofBothEnclosures.jpg

Hope this helps.

if you want a nice thump or sound i suggest face them towards the back of the car that way the vibrations bounce off your trunk and hit you hard
thats how i have my 2 clarion 600's and thats the only way the pound good and they sound the best facing the trunk

Replace the coil packs.
Your issue is NOT the converter, or you would have a P0420/P0430 code

You will need to fabricate your solution. There is an enclosure for the HD58A7. This is a discontinued item but you can find the parts on line if nowhere else. You can get a single box or double box enclosure. There is also a faceplate. Once you have this item or items you can decide how you will attach them to the cart. I have seen people just use tie wraps you could build a box and use the faceplate on the box. I can't see your cart, so I can't tell you what I would do. Tie wraps are fast and easy if there is some way to attach them to the cart.