a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
have you checked the rear wall of the freezer?if its frosted over,remove the rear panel to check the evaporator coil,if its iced-up it cannot cool the unit properly,if so de-ice with a hair dryer,then check the defrost heater under the coil that is suppose to keep the coil ice free,if its open it cant heat to defrost,if it has continuity and is good,then check the defrost control be it timed or adaptive for proper operation
If the mullion (rail between the fresh food section and the freezer section) on your refrigerator is hotter than normal this tip will help identify and remedy the issue hopefully before it gets to the point of loosing the cooling.
Theory: Refrigerated surfaces will attract moisture, especially in the warmer more humid areas and times of year. Since the refrigerator and freezer are cold moisture can accumulate near the door from normal use, this moisture can get into the door seals and cause them to not seal properly, mold and otherwise cause a nuisance.
Why Hot: To keep the moisture from accumulating on this surface the refrigerator manufactures have run part of the hot condenser tubing inside the cabinet close to that rail, under normal running circumstances this rail will be slightly above room temperature and the amount of heat not noticeable. The condenser is the set of coils that are on the back or bottom of the refrigerator and disperse the heat from the unit. If the condenser is very dirty or the fan that keeps the condenser cool is not running then the condenser coils and thus the mullion (rail) gets very hot and overheats. This heat will eventually cause the compressor to work harder and possibly overheat and turn off occasionally to cool itself. This will lead to reduced cooling in the freezer and refrigerator.
Fix: If the coils are under the refrigerator, pull the front grille off of the bottom, check if you feel air coming out, if not then the fan is not running, look for dust and dirt build up on the coils, clean with a brush and vacuum, do not be afraid to get aggressive with the brush. If the fan is not running you will need to go to the back of the refrigerator and unplug the power cord. Remove the back panel off the bottom and you should see the fan. It may have some dust or other debris blocking the fan blade from turning. If so clean that out very good, clean the coils from the back if accessible also. Be sure to put the back panel on as it is there to direct the air flow across the compressor and coils, without that panel the condenser will overheat.
If the fan does not run after cleaning it you will need to replace the fan motor, it is a common part that should be available at most retail appliance part dealers. Just be sure to get your model and serial number before calling.
Usually yes thats how it works. Take the fridge side and move it all the way left and see if it clicks off. Wait a few minutes than put it back in the middle. If it clicks off than you are correct so place both knobs near the middle.
The "outside" coils that you are looking for on a refrigerator will be found either on the back, or in the case of your Amana, on the bottom - behind the toe space bezel. There are no coils on the back of the fridge.
The coils are usually thin, black grates that contain the refrigerant. Be careful not to damage them when cleaning. Open the freezer door (yours is a bottom freezer type) and simply grasp at the top of the bezel an gently pull away from the frame.
Use a narrow crevice vacuum tool attachment to pull the dust and debris from the coils. Use a flashlight to see beyond the very front. You may also wish to unplug the fridge so that you do not damage the fan if it is struck by the tool while running. You should vac the coils annually or more frequently if the fridge is in a dusty area - or there is a lot of pet hair collecting on the coils. Some fridges also have the fan hidden behind a removable panel on the at the bottom of the back side of the fridge. If cleaning fan blades - you must unplug the fridge before attempting. Vacuum any dirt and dust on visible coils seen near the fan.
condensation normally drains thru a tube at the bottom of the frig to a drip pan under the condenser coil (under the frig) .. the water normally just evaporates from the pan .. if there is too much moisture in the frig, that usually means a door is ajar (not closing completely) or the seal on the door is not sealing properly .. warm moist air from the room getting in will cause too much condensation .. the drip pan may overflow ... you should check the drip pan for damage (clean the condenser while you are down there) .. also check the tube that carries the condensation (back bottom of the frig) .. it has a one way valve (lets water out only) that becomes stuck sometimes and needs cleaning.. if there is a large amount of moist things in the frig then that an cause the problem as well .. just put those things in plastic bags or containers to eliminate that problem ..
either you ice maker is overflowing,(not likely but possible) or you have a clog in your drain behind hte rear cover, not allowing defrost water to drain away in to the pan under refrig instead flowing to bottom of freezer area. rempove the rear cover and thawe all ice, especially near the middle of hte aluminum oan yull find a clogged/frozen drain tube
Step 1: If the compressor runs all the time, turn the control knob to the OFF position. If the compressor still runs, unplug the unit, then pull off the control knob and remove the screws holding the thermostat in place. Pull out the thermostat and remove either the red or the blue wire from its terminal. Plug in the unit. If the compressor doesn't run, the thermostat is faulty. Replace it with a new thermostat.
Step 2:If the compressor runs after the wire is removed from its terminal, there is probably a short circuit somewhere in the unit's wiring. In this case, don't try to fix the problem yourself; call a professional service person.
Step 3:If the refrigerator or freezer runs but the box doesn't cool, unplug the unit and remove the thermostat with a screwdriver. Disconnect both wires from the thermostat. Tape the ends of the wires together with electrical tape, and plug in the appliance. If the refrigerator starts and runs normally, the thermostat is faulty. Replace it with a new one of the same type. Connect the new thermostat the same way the old one was connected.
Step 4:If the freezer compartment is normal but the refrigerator box doesn't cool, set the dials that control both compartments to mid-range. Remove these knobs (they're usually friction-fit). Then unscrew the temperature control housing; you'll see an air duct near the control. Replace the knob on the freezer thermostat and turn the control to the OFF position. Open the refrigerator door and look closely at the air duct. If this duct doesn't open wider in about ten minutes, the control is faulty. Replace the control with a new one of the same type. Connect the new control the same way the old one was connected.
moisture in the freezer is condensed at the back in a tray that has a drain with a tube that drains to a tray at the bottom of the unit. In our case the drain was clogged and water froze in it. We removed the back panel and pulled out the tube from the drain spout. We then used a hair dryer to defrost the ice clog and a wire to route out the drain and the tube. This worked and we replaced the tube and sealed it with tape. It now drains properly into the tray.
Ya hit it right on the head. Sounds like a classic "pulling in moisture" problem. See if you can seal that air leak any way you can. That moisture can freeze up air channels and block the refer compartment from getting cool air from the freezer compartment eventually.
It sounds as if the thermal limit on the compressor is cutting off power to the compressor when it gets too hot. There could be 3 reasons for this. One, the compressor is just bad...should be covered under the 5 year sealed sytem warranty (if its less than 5 years old of course) if this is the case. Two, the thermal overload and start relay assembly is bad. They are mounted directly to the compressor (big round black thing) and can be changed for about$14 in parts (unplug the unit before replacing!) Three, the fan that runs in the bottom near the compressor that cools the compressor and condenser is jammed or not rotating for some reason. It should run any time the the compressor is running. If it doesnt, it need replaced or the compressor will do exactly what you are describing. Hope this helps!