Question about Thermador SGS36GS Gas Cooktop

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Keeping existing 220V for oven and getting 110V to cooktop

I have an existing electric wall oven & electric cooktop running off the same 220V line. I'm changing the cooktop only to gas. Do I need to run a seperate 15 AMP, 110 line for the cooktop?

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Yes you need a seperate line for the cooktop. whoever hooked your oven and cooktop up in the first place should have never hooked them to the same line to begin with. you are lucky you never had issues.

Posted on May 25, 2009

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white, black - should be hot then ground

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red, black - should be hot white - neutral then ground

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hello,

If the electricity is needed to ignite that cooktop, you can install power inverter from DC to AC. you can use 24 volt battery and inverted to 110V or 220V or depending on the power input of the cooktop..may this help,

melnavz

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1 Answer

Cooktop WIring


To complying with changed Codes (effective in 2002 ) regarding stoves, ovens and dryers. You will need a 120/240 volt 4 wire 40 amp and 50 amp circuit. This
Decades ago it was permitted to use a 3 wire system (having two 120 volt hots (Black and Red) and 1 combination ground/neutral wire) (green and white) to serve stoves, cooktops, ovens and dryers.
The Code change now requires all stoves and dryers in NEW construction to have the 4 wire set-up (now having two 120 volt hots, 1 white neutral and one green or bare wire ground).
Existing wiring is grand-fathered under the Code change.....I advise you to change the feed wiring over to the the 4 wire set-up...
because - as with ALL Code changes in the past...it will eventually become mandatory for all stoves, ovens and dryers as the grand-father clause drops off. By complying now...
BUT the wiring will need to change to 8/3 with ground. (having 4 wires inside one outer jacket).This is the primary reason for the Code change....to provide a greater margin of safety to the user.
I can NOT recommend the 3 wire hook-up...the 4 wire provides a seperate ground and neutral -
which makes the chance of a user shock when touching the metal frame (from an internal fault in the oven) much less likely then the old 3 wire set-up....
which did NOT have the seperate ground and neutral.
Krazytech

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