When i try to weld with my puk 111 the electrode sticks to the weld.it is not retracting when the arc is created.i figured that out by using my puk 2 welder.i watched what it did when the electrode touch the metal and that is when i notice the the electrode retracted when the arc was created.my puk 111 stoped retracting and i do not no why.it will still weld to pieces of metal together but the electrode sticks to the weld
Mine was doing the same, spoke with the technitions and they told me to undo the connector from the hand piece to the machine at the machine, you then need to disassemble this connector and look to see if one of the white wires is dissconnected, if so you need to carefully push the gold plated pin out the back of the connector towards the cable, solder the wire back on and reassemble and it should work.
If not contact the head office and they were very helpfull.
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Not sure what machine you have, but it should be DC straight (electrode negative or DCEN) and DC reverse (electrode positive or DCEP). The polarities have different characteristics. For example, if you're planning to TIG weld, you would either use DCEN or AC (if welding aluminum). For the general stick welding process, DCEP tends to give you a deeper weld. The welding rod you buy will have recommended machine polarity and amperage range settings, you should use the recommended polarity for whichever rod you're using because different rods are designed to weld under different circumstances. But, generally speaking, most welding rods for steel will work on DCEP without much trouble.
Use the smallest tungsten possible, ie 1/16" welds up to 115amps. Hold the tungsten straight up the face of the grinding wheel so the striations go up the tungsten. This encourages the arc to go straight down the electrode thus avoiding arc wonder on lower amperages. It also helps to make the point as long as possible to encourage a finer arc. Happy welding.
There are four common welding processes utilized through out the work industry today. They are : (Stick Welding or SMAW) Shield Metal Arc Welding (Mig Welding or GMAW) Gas Metal Arc Welding (Tig Welding or TMAW) Tungsten Metal Arc Welding (FCAW) Flux Cored Arc Welding
There are many many welding processes, however these are the most common. The type I am going to discuss briefly today is SMAW. The most economical and cheapest way to learn if welding is for you or not is to start with stick welding. It has the least amount of variables that can go wrong for a beginner. It is not fast paced like mig or flux core, so you have time to watch the molten puddle to see what it is doing and make necessary adjustments to correct the size, shape, and contour of your weld bead. The hardest part for a beginner is to keep the electrode from sticking to the work piece. Thus is the reason it got the name of "stick welding". There are three common ways to strike an arc in SMAW. Tap Start, Scratch Start, and the last is to place the electrode upon your fingers like a pool cue, and shoot the rod like your playing pool.
Changes between AC and DC voltage at the electrodes.
Q: What Type Of Stick Welder Works Best For All-Around Use?
A: A welder with an AC/DC output, whether its an electric arc machine like Miller\'s Thunderbolt or a gas engine drive like Miller\'s Bobcat.
DC welding offers advantages over AC for most Stick applications, including: easier starts; fewer arc outages and sticking; less spatter/better looking welds; easier vertical up and overhead welding; easier to learn "how to weld" and a smoother arc. DC reverse polarity (electrode positive) provides about 10 percent more penetration at a given amperage than AC, while DC straight polarity (electrode negative) welds thinner metals better.
Q: Does An AC Output Have Any Advantages?
A: Yes, if you need to weld on material that\'s become magnetized from friction, such as when hay, feed or water constantly rub against a steel part. A DC output won\'t work because of "arc blow," where the magnetic field blows the molten filler metal out of the weld puddle. Because an AC output alternates between polarities, it enables you to weld magnetized parts.
maybe its your volts too. make sure you are grounded properly and clean from debri's, strike the electrode like a match and keep the arc close to your work-piece. dont go too fast and make sure your not wearing to strong of a lens in your hood. gold lens number 10 are the best for 7018 rods.
Argon is an inert gas and in welding is used to produce a shield around the weld. It protects the work from impurities. The arch comes directly from amperage shorting to ground through the rod. The heat generated from this short melts the rod into the work. In short, the welder should work without the Argon and needs only Amperage in the rod and a good ground to create an arch. Double check the ground on the work. In this case, your Ring. Please rate this answer for me and feel free to write again. Thank You. Roger
Hi Kevin, Causes of poor penetration: Travel speed too fast, welding current too low, poor joint design / and or preparation, electrode diameter too large, wrong type of electrode, excessively long arc length. Solutions: Decrease travel speed, increase welding current, increase root opening or decrease rootface, use smaller electrode, use electrode with deeper penetration characteristics, reduce arc length.
What type of weld are you trying to do? A Fill weld?
Are you trying to fill a V in-between two pieces of hard steel, (Carbon), that is 3 inches thick?
1. If you are, the electrode should be held at a 90 degree angle to the metal. Straight up, and down.
Moving the electrode too fast will cause a intermittent bead. Slow down. TIG welding takes time. It isn't like ARC welding. If the electrode burns off to one side, you don't have the electrode in the correct position.
2.Too little heat, (Amperage) will make a 'Cold' weld, and you won't have the penetration that you need. Too much gas (Argon) will do this also. Too little gas, and you'll burn through.