Question about Karcher 2500 PSI Pressure Washer

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Karcher 520m oil leak

I have an oil leak coming from a large seal on my karcher 520m i am about to remove the 4 bolts but need to know 1) where can I obtain a new seal?
2) what type and quantity of oil do I use to replace?

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  • 3 more comments 
  • paul_with May 25, 2009

    Thanks for reply,there is no hole to add oil,is this accessed after removal of pump and seal?

  • paul_with May 26, 2009

    Thanks for reply, I think we must be discussing a different machine, it doesn't have any filling hole anywhere on the's a 520MH model

  • Anonymous Mar 14, 2014

    karcher 520m bearings under pistons worn

  • Anonymous Mar 15, 2014

    oil leaking from bottom of casing what is the solution

  • Anonymous Mar 20, 2014

    which oil to use?



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Small engine shop should be able to obtain the proper gasket for you.....oil 20 weight fill untill you can see it at the bottom of the threads at the whole you pour it into!

Posted on May 25, 2009

  • Todd McCormick May 26, 2009

    no it should be an oil filling hole at the base of the motor block with a black yellow or red screw on cap should be readily accesible!



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Where do I check the transmisson fluid on a 2006 cobolt

The 2006 Cobalt does not have a dipstick check tube at all. It is normally a non-serviceable component unless there is a leak. When the pan is removed, for service you would normally add 6.9 US quarts to the transmission. I will paste the GM instructions for servicing the pan below.

2006 Chevrolet Cobalt
Automatic Transmission Fluid Filter and Seal Replacement
Tools Required:
• J 6125-1B Slide Hammer
• J 23129 Axle Boot Remover
Removal Procedure

1. Raise and support the vehicle.
2. Place the drain pan under the transaxle oil pan.

Notice: When removing the oil pan bolts, be careful not to damage the oil pan sealing surfaces. Such damage may result in oil leaks in this area.
3. Remove the oil pan bolts from only the front and the sides.
4. Loosen the rear oil pan bolts about 4 turns.
5. Lightly tap the oil pan with a rubber mallet or pry in order to allow the fluid to drain.
6. Inspect the fluid color.
7. Remove the remaining oil pan bolt
8. Remove the oil pan.
9. Remove the oil pan gasket.

10. Remove the oil filter. Use a long screwdriver in order to pry the oil filter neck out of the seal.
11. Check the oil filter seal for damage or wear.
12. As needed, remove the seal using the J 6125-1B and the J 23129 .

Installation Procedure
1. Install a new seal, as needed. Before installing, coat the new seal with a small amount of J 36850 or petroleum jelly.
2. Install a new filter into the case
3. Install the oil pan gasket. Use a new gasket if the sealing ribs are damaged.
4. Clean and dry the oil pan. Inspect the pan for damage and replace the pan if necessary.
5. Install the oil pan.
6. Clean and dry the oil pan. Inspect the pan for damage and replace the pan if necessary.
7. Install the oil pan.
8. Install the oil pan bolts.

Tighten the bolts to 10 N·m (89 lb in).
9. Lower the vehicle.
10. Fill the transaxle to the proper level. Refer to Fluid Capacity Specifications .
11. Inspect the pan for leaks. Recheck the transmission fluid level. Refer to Transmission Fluid Checking .

Apr 27, 2014 | YouTube Videos

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you need to know where oil is coming from. pump or motor? both will use normal motor oil

Mar 30, 2014 | Karcher Garden

1 Answer

How do you remove the empellor from the motor shaft? The seal is leaking. I have the 4 screws loose holding the pump casing. Does is slip off the motor shaft or is it threaded on?

First off, are you sure it's the shaft seal leaking and not the Valute (the large o-ring or seal that is in between to two halves of the pump) seal? To clarify, if you get your head down and look at the bottom of the pump while it's running you should be able to see the water coming from the joint between the seal plate, and the seal plate housing, or just behind that from the bottom of the motor probably from the vent holes in the motor housing.

Now to answer your question, assuming it is the shaft seal leaking.... You may have already done some of these steps, if so, sorry - just ignore, but it may help others. To get to the impeller, you need to split the pump into two (the wet end from the dry end) This is done by either removing a large clamp, or removing 4 to 6 bolts depending on the pump. (I'm not talking about the 4 bolts that hold the motor to the seal plate, those come later see below) Once you do this the Motor, seal plate, impeller and diffuser will all pull back away from the front of the pump. At this point it's best to disconnect the electric and remove the whole assembly so you can work on a table or bench. Before removing the impeller you need to remove the diffuser which is screwed over the impeller onto the seal plate with 3-6 small screws. To remove the impeller you need to lock the motor and just unscrew impeller. Depending on the motor, you remove a cap in the middle of the tail piece and hold with a wrench, or remove a cap that covers the whole end and grab the shaft with a wrench (usually 7/16") by sliding it under one of the components (not sure exact part off top of my head have to look at it) and then turning impeller. If the impeller has a bolt or screw in the middle remove that first. It should be reverse thread so make sure you don't turn the wrong way and break or strip. If there is no screw, or after you've removed it, just spin the impeller off (it should be counter clockwise standard thread). If you can't do it by hand and assuming you don't have an impeller wrench, be very careful and use a large pliers, pipe wrench, or strap wrench to loosen it. After that you unbolt the motor from the seal plate, pull the seal plate away from motor (this removes half the seal), and then pop the other half of the seal from the seal plate. One thing to note and/or clarify... in your description you said you have the "4" screws loose... As I mentioned above, most pumps have either a large clamp or 6 bolts holding the two halves of the pump together. In your case I believe it's bolts. Some have 4, but most have 6. Then there also 4 bolts that hold the motor to the seal plate. Just want to clarify that you split the pump in two and remove the diffuser, and impeller, before removing the motor from the seal plate. I haven't worked on a Waterway in awhile, but there are basically the same as many other pumps. You may have 4 bolts, just wanted to clarify from the motor mounting bolts. If something looks different on your pump from my description let me know by leaving a comment and I'll clarify asap. Good Luck!

Sep 19, 2010 | Waterway Champion 1 1/2 Hp 230v Energy...

1 Answer

The big black washer between the tank and bottom is deteriorating also the black washers on the bolts that hold the tank to the bottom are coming apart and the tank is leaking

Any hardware stores where plumbing supply is sold including lowes and home depot sell toilet seal kits including toilet to tank seals as well as toilet rebuild kits. Ask for a toilet to tank seal and washers for the bolts which might come with the large seal(check)
1. Close toilet water valve
2. Drain tank or sop with a towel and squeeze into tub until toilet is empty or bail water out with a cup.
3. Remove two tank bolts
4. clean area where old seals were
5. put tank seal on bowl and set tank lining it on top of seal.
6. Install tank bolts with new seals and tighten evenly
7. Don't over tighten or tank will crack. You probably can tighten until tank and toilet touch evenly on both sides.
8. Fill and check for leaks.

Aug 19, 2010 | Jacuzzi Home

3 Answers

Oil Leak from gearchange shaft How to fix??????????

Hey doesn't your Honda know that only Harley's mark their territory? Pull the cover and install a new gasket, no big deal.

Jun 19, 2009 | 1981 Honda CX 500 A

2 Answers

Oil cooler seal

There are two items that can be leaking oil there. There is a gasket between the oiler cooler flange (the item attached to the engine), and the rubber gasket/seal that goes between the cooler and the flange. (the latter is the one that leaks most often as most oil change shops over tighten the oil filter).
I just replaced the gasket between the cooler and flange recently. I chose to do it quick and dirty: 1. remove oil filter 2. remove oil filter nipple (the portion you screw the filter onto) 2a. you'll need a deep well socket to get the bolt that holds the cooler tight (I believe 27mm)
2b. pull down the cooler, Grab the nipple with a pair of pliers between the flange and cooler and loosen/remove
3. remove old gasket/seal and clean surface 4. put new seal/gasket in place 5. re-seat the nipple back in. use the pliers method, just make sure you don't scar the threads where you NEED them( you don't need all of them). 6. put some gasket sealer (oil friendly) on the gasket and make sure its in place 7. tighten oil cooler onto flange with large nut and socket 8. replace oil filter and add oil as needed.
it is a tight working area, expect some scrapped knuckles, but it isn't too difficult.
good luck

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1 Answer

Oil leak from top side of oil filter

Make sure you oil the rubber seal on the oil filter and tighten the oil filter 3/4 of a turn more after the seal is flush with the bracket.

Nov 19, 2008 | 2004 Dodge Stratus

2 Answers

Karcher pressure washer leaking oil

Usually electric pressure washers only have oil on the pump, so its very likely that you will find the problem there. I'd say check all the pump seals and if that doesnt solve the problem, you can check to see if all bolts are tight when you close the pump back.
If by any chance you are looking for a new machine and/or parts for your machine, log in to where you will be able to find pretty much anything for your preassure washer.

Apr 07, 2008 | Karcher 2500 PSI Pressure Washer

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