I have a dometic rm 2611, does not cool

If the RV is level and the rear coils of the cooling unit are warm, then you will require a replacement cooling unit. Changing the cooling unit is something that can be done by the end user such as yourself. Check out Arcticold Cooling Units.here ArctiCold Refrigeration We keep it cold or give them a call toll free 1-888-782-6665
By replacing the cooling unit with an aftermarket one, it will save you you money (vs buying a new fridge) and increase the performance and durability of your fridge. Arcticold cooling units can be purchased on ebay Dometic RM2611 Brand New Manufactured Cooling Units LIFETIME WARRANTY... The RM 2611 cooling unit is the same as the RM2620

You need to unplug the heating element from the circuit board and using a digital multi meter check the ohms. You should read approximately 44 ohms +/- 10%. If it is out of range change the heating element.

direct connect compressor rly & check compressor rly.must be use overload switch.

On the back side of the unit there will be a small thermostat switch mounted on the heat column. It will be round with two wires attached to it. In the center is a reset button. If this button does not restore power then the next step is to replace the wire coming from 12v supply to the thremostat switch. The wire will be red and will have a black sleeve on it. Under the sleeve is a safety diode (to prevent overheating and fire), it will be held in place with three bendable metal fingers. If the diode is bad it will not allow 12v power to pass through to the circuit board. Even though the refrigerator is running on 110v power the circuit board still requires 12v power to operate. The diode is a part of a FREE recall kit offered by Dometic so your local RV repair center should be able to help you out.

Unplug hydro plug to fridge. Remove cover on circuit board. Follow wires from heating element, to terminals on circuit board. ( probably J7 and J8 ) . With an AC volt meter or multimeter set to AC voltage, turn fridge on hydro, and leave door open on fridge so that it calls for cooling. To be sure it's calling for cool, try gas first, when it's starts, you know it's calling for cool, then switch to AC operation. Now test for voltage at the 2 terminals that the heating element were/are attached to. If you get 100-120 VAC, then replace the heating element. If not get back to me and I'll walk you through a couple more tests.

Check when you turn the control knob inside the fridge side that there is some form of resistance or at least a sweeping sound. The knob will always stop at both extremes but very often the linkage can come loose leaving all the cool air above in the freezer. if you can unplug the fridge and listen very closely to see if the deflection door is indeed moving. If you can get the cover off, grab your surgeons cap, a flash light and a long pair of needlenose pliers you may be able to clip the link back in place. Good Luck,Dana

Your voltage supply is being interrupted. The DC voltage needs to be at least 10.5 to work properly. If you are switching from shore to gen this can cause the interuption also. I presume the gas supply is staying on when you are traveling.

Problem is either thermostat or heating element...not sure which yet..but found website supplying most usable parts for RM series fridges. Hope this link is of use.
http://www.leisureshopdirect.com
http://www.leisureshopdirect.com/caravan/ventilation/Dometic-Electrolux_Spares$$6.aspx