Question about Bell Sports BICYCLE CHAIN LICENSE PLATE AUTO
N is skipping or the gears are stripped
In my humble opinion, i believe you would have noticed if your cassette was worn out. i believe the problem is derailleur adjustment and alignment. If you are comfortable with this adjustment, here's how you do it:
The first step in all bike maintenance is always cleaning what you are working on first. Wash your drivetrain frequently, because dirt+grease=poorly functioning equipment. Use Simple Green and a brush to thoroughly clear your derailleurs before adjustment and, contrary to popular belief, the derailleurs DO NOT REQUIRE LUBRICATION. Only the chain and cables get regular lubrication.
Start by flipping the bike over and setting on the saddle and handlebars.
Shift into your middle front chainring and the highest gear on the cassette, rotating the crank while you shift.
Now release the rear cable at the derailleur.
Eyeball the alignment of the derailleur to make sure it is perfectly plumb with the bike, straight up and down. Then make sure that it is also longitudinally straight and follows the same front to back line as your frame. Bend the hanger as necessary by firmly holding the derailleur body and tweaking until it's all straight.
Once you are confident it's all aligned, adjust the derailleur by setting the "H" and "L" stops ans follows:
"H" (or High) is set by adjusting the screw until the jockey wheel floats perfectly over your smallest cassette cog. "L" is set by manually moving the derailleur until you are ever-so-slightly past the last cog (i like it to be precisely parallel with the last cog on my bikes) and set the stop at that point.
Now that the limits are set, set the barrel adjuster on the derailleur to its centermost point and pull the cable taut and re-tighten the screw.
Now shift into your middle gear, cranking as you go, and use the barrel adjuster to set the jockey wheel so it is aligned and centered over the correct cog.
Shift up and down the cassette, cranking as you do it, and in every gear, back-spin the crank to make sure the bike doesn't jump out of gear. Adjust the barrel nut if necessary until all gears work smoothly.
If this made no change, then your cassette or derailleur may be the problem.
Posted on Sep 13, 2009
What has happened here is that the original chain and the teeth on the cassette wore out together. When the cassette wears out and you install a new chain, you will feel a rough feeling in your feet, and the rear gears will not shift properly because the teeth on the cassette are too worn.
You probably also have worn chainrings in the front, which will require replacement.
It is usually a good idea to replace your chain every 1500 miles or so. This prevents the chain becoming too stretched out and causing undue wear on the teeth of the drivetrain.
It is also very important to clean your drivetrain frequently. I recommend Finish Line Metro as a single-step cleaner and lubricant. Apply it liberally to the chain by holding the sprayer on the lower half of the chain while spinning the cranks backwards. Let it sit for a minute, then run the chain through a rag or towel until it is clean. It may be necessary to use several clean parts of the towel, as it will become filthy very quickly.
Once it is clean, it is good for a ride or two before the process is repeated. This will help reduce wear on your drivetrain as well as frequent replacement of the chain.
Posted on Aug 21, 2009
Over tim and use, the chain and the rear cogs stretch and shape to form. Replacing the chain usually means replacing the rear cog cassette. If the rear cogs are expensive, then replace the chain more often before it breaks and then you don't have to replace the rear cog cassette
Posted on May 25, 2009
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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