Turns off won't turn back on unless you move thermostat

Ok, its likely you will need a new evaporator (freezer) fan motor and a new motherboard. GE had a issue with the motherboard causing the freezer fan motor to go out.

Here's the motherboard for your model you can order:
Manufacturer part number WR55X10942 is RepairClinic item number 1531075
[img src="http://www.repairclinic.com/dbimages/00001592/00479990.jpg" border="0" alt="">

Here's the evaporator fan motor for your model you can order:
Manufacturer part number WR60X10074 is RepairClinic item number 914169
[img src="http://www.rcappliancepartsimages.com/dbimages/00000763/00230839.jpg" border="0" alt="">

reference: http://www.applianceblog.com/mainforums/threads/17017-FIXED-GE-GSS25JFMC-Won-t-cool

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On your model your cntrl board has a relay that can stick causing the compressor to always run even when the unit is turned off or in defrost. turn the fridge off, move the temp of the freezer to it's warmest setting and it should display a line in the freezer and fridge temp display. listen to hear if the compressor is running in back of the unit. if it is you need part number: 12868513

You will need to replace the thermostat in the unit.

NOTE: This
is a multi-solution answer since I don't have all the tech from your question to pinpoint your problem
But the solution is in here generically, if you read and study the solutions very,very carefully.
First I would check cold control. Thats where you turn it off, if your temp is not warm. it can
be defective and not shutting off. If your temp is warm proceed with the following.
I would check the fan in the freezer. Listen to see if it is running
It moves air to the ref from the freezer
Then check to see if FREEZER CONTROL is turned WARMER WHICH MAKES THE REF COLDER AND VICE-VERSA. SEE?
The ref. temp should be about 33-35
The Freezer temp should be 0 to 10 Any thing below these temps is overkill and a waste of elect
The higher the number you turn it up to is the coldest
But is probably a common defrost problem The ice build up
is not being melted by the defrost system.The fan can't blow through the coils into the fridge.
Take out back panel of freezer to check for ice buildup. The coils should be clean.
There are three components to a defrost system- a heater,heater thermostat, and a timer unless you have a defrost electronic card.
Its best handled by a Technician but you could possibly do it by taking your model number to the nearest appliance parts store and asking for the parts. They are mostly located in freezer ,behind back panel on freezer coils.except the card which is usually located in ref The parts store will have info
Also check fan undernearh Ref in the rear
Clean condenser coils underneath
Make sure back cover is on the fridge. Some take them off and throw them away.
make one out of cardboard if its gone, using the holes of the old one.
.I'm including my article on Refrigerator Repair for your help and convenience.;
Please click or copy and paste into browser for Article

http://www.fixya.com/support/r5816737-fix_refrigerator_psychologically
If you need more help go here:

http://www.applianceaid.com/procedures.html

MORE TIPS AND TRICKS:
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
STOP PAYING FOR EXPENSIVE WATER FILTERS FOR YOUR REF. DO THIS====
http://www.fixya.com/support/r9962087-stop_paying_high_price_refrigerator
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
WATER SPLASHING IN FREEZER AT ICEMAKER
THE FILL TUBE IN BACK OF REFRIGERATOR CAN SLIP
AGAINST THE FILL RESERVOIR CAUSING A PARTIAL BLOCKAGE
OR BECOME CLOGGED WITH ICE.
REMOVE THE ICEMAKER AND INSPECT THE FILL TUBE.
RUN WATER IN TUBE TO ELININATE BLOCKAGE AND CHECK
TEMP IN FREEZER. IF TEMP IS BELOW 0 DEGREES, THATS
OVERKILL AND USUALLY A WASTE OF ELECTRICITY TO KEEP IT THAT COLD, NOT TO MENTION THE FILL TUBE FREEZING UP
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Thanks for using fixya
Leo Ponder
imufo2
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ITWILL BE MUCH APPRECIATED.

the thermostat is most likely to go. i would replace that. if you want to make sure and you have a meter handy. set it to then ohms scale. turn off the power remove control cover set a test lead on each side of the control knob. as you go higher your resistance number goes higher. then you no its good. to test the thermostat you would have to turn power on. i dont recommend it unless certified, if seen some things. thanks hope this answer helps.

Hello,
It is often the case that if the thermostat is not working, the best route to take is to replace it rather than try to fix it, unless you have the necessary knowledge to do so. Most of the time, these are not as expensive as you would think and can be easily installed into the refrigerator. Here are some steps to follow to find out what the best route for you to take is in repairing or replacing your thermostat.

Good luck.....
Locate the thermostat and get all necessary model numbers, serial numbers and model codes. This information should be available for the refrigerator itself as well. Use this information to find and purchase the correct thermostat for your refrigerator.
Next, remove all power from the unit. Unplug the unit completely and make sure that it is not running before moving forward. Then, remove the old thermostat by cutting through the wiring.
To install the new thermostat, trim the lead wires to the right length. They are generally too long to start with. Terminate back into the circuit. The device will act as if it is a switch. This means that the direction or the coloring of the wires is not important. So long as you can cut off the current moving through them to the main defrost element you have no problem.
Make sure to properly dress the wires to insure that no part of them comes into contact with the defrost elements as this can cause them to melt.
Replacing a thermostat doesn’t have to be a lot of work, when you know what the problem is and can get easy access to the parts you need. Determine if your thermostat is bad by running through those tests first. When you do replace it, make sure to test to make sure it is working properly by allowing the unit to cool for several hours and testing the temperature within it.

Time for a new cold control. That thermostat kills the power to everything, Their are only 2 wires and a ground. Pretty simple to swap out.

If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

20-30dollars

Sounds like the cold control is bad.Does the fridge work ok otherwise?The cold control is what you are having to turn to 0,and are usually set at midrange.0 to 9,set at 4.The control has a temperature sensitive tube that opens or closes the contacts in the control,and they do go bad.This is where I would start.You can get a replacement control at an appliance shop.Get the model and seriel number of the fridge located usually inside of fridge on a tag on the inside wall.Use these numbers to get the part.Hope this helps. Gregg

if it is not in the center of the back of the freezer then it may not have a control for the freezer. the control for the freezer is just a flap that allows more or less air into the refrigerator side. so the only thermostat in a refrigerator is the one in the refrigerator side.