Does it act the same as if the bucket was removed? Likely your fill bucket switch is not connecting. Remove the bucket, press the switch and try to run the unit. If it powers up and "works" then you need to make sure the bucket has a good connection with the switch. If this did not work, remove the connectors to the switch and electrical tape them together and try running this again. If it works, your switch is bad. Replace. If you leave it electrical tape connected, the unit will not turn off when the bucket is full.
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Capacitor
If your dehumidifier is no longer pulling water from the air and you have verified that the ambient room temperature is above 65 degrees Fahrenheit, then the unit's compressor may not be running. The compressor is the pump that circulates the refrigerant through the evaporator to extract moisture from the air. There is a capacitor in the compressor circuit to help the compressor motor to start and if the capacitor has failed then the compressor won't run. If the compressor doesn't run or if the overload device continues to trip, then you may have a defective capacitor. An accurate diagnosis can be determined by a qualified person using special test equipment.
Overload
If your dehumidifier is no longer pulling water from the air and you have verified that the ambient room temperature is above 65 degrees Fahrenheit, then the unit's compressor may not be running. The compressor is the pump that circulates the refrigerant through the evaporator to extract moisture from the air. There is a device in the compressor circuit called an overload and it is used to protect the compressor motor from damage. If the overload has failed then the compressor won't start. If you have verified that the compressor doesn't run, then you can test the overload for continuity with a multi-meter. A common cause for the overload to fail is from operating the dehumidifier on long or undersized extension cords.
Fan Motor
If your dehumidifier is not making water and you have verified that the ambient temperature is above 65 degrees Fahrenheit, then you may have a faulty fan motor. For proper operation, a dehumidifier needs to have an adequate amount of air blowing across the evaporator coils to prevent frost or ice buildup. If you feel little or no air coming through the grille area and the filter is clean, then remove the cover and check the fan area. Inspect the coils to make sure that they are not restricted with lint or dirt and clean them if necessary. Make sure that the fan motor rotates freely and that the fan blade or blower wheel is firmly attached to the motor shaft. Using caution, operate the unit in a fan only mode and observe the fan motor. If it hums but does not rotate or only rotates slowly then it is defective and will need to be replaced. If the motor does not rotate and does not appear to make any sound, it may still be defective, but will require further testing by someone who is comfortable with using a multi-meter and working with live electrical circuits.
Electronic Control Board or PCB Assembly
If your dehumidifier is no longer pulling water from the air and you have verified that the ambient room temperature is above 65 degrees Fahrenheit, then the unit's compressor or fan motor may not be operating. The compressor is the pump that circulates the refrigerant through the evaporator, and the fan motor blows air across the evaporator coils to extract the moisture. On some modern dehumidifiers an electronic control board, often called the PCB, is used to control the compressor and fan motor. The control board has sensors connected to it that monitor the relative humidity and when the level is higher than the control setting, the control board will activate relays to turn on the compressor and fan motor. If you have an electronic control model and the compressor or the fan is not operating, then the electronic control may be at fault. A voltage test, using a multi-meter at the output relays, would be required to help in the diagnosis as well as confirmation that the sensors are operating normally.
check the capacitor to the conpressor motor BUT IF YOU ARE A NOVICE STAY AWAY FROM THIS PART IT CAN BLIND YOU OR EVEN KILL YOU and its not worth that Truely its sounds like the capacitor is shot or ven worse your compressor mother is shot have a technition check it out it is really worth it. PS Im not jocking about the capacitor.
It is very normal for the compressor to get very hot, almost to the point of being able to fry an egg on it. So it is important to keep everything clean and dirt, dustfree. Clean the fan blades, tubing and anything that you can do to ensure good air flow.
the compressor has an internal overload to protect it from overheating. the compressor is cooled by the refrigerant passing over it. It could be a bad compressor,, bad charge of refrigerant, or simply dirty coils not allowing air movement
oh no it sounds like the compressor is not working, can you hear it kick on? or the freon may have leaked out. the air coming out should be warm at least. are the back side coils getting cold? you may have to take it in
Is the fan running and stopping before the unit completely quits?
If the fan quits the compressor won't run very long.
I would start with the fan motor or capacitor.
Shut the power off to the unit, spin the blower wheel to see if it spins freely. If it doesn't spin freely, (there appears to be a little drag when you spin it),the bearings are bad, if it does spin freely, then try moving the motor shaft from side to side if there’s any play in the shaft side to side then the bearings are worn and motor needs replaced. Then, check the capacitor, if it’s bulging even slightly, the capacitor is bad and needs replaced. Most of the time people replace the capacitor if motor seems ok. If capacitor is ok, turn power on to see if the motor is getting the proper voltage, if it is and not trying to run, then the windings are probably open, the motor's bad and needs replaced. r.
MAKE SURE THERE IS NO ICE FORMING ON COILS IF U CAN SEE THEM. IF IN BASEMENT, SURROUNDING TEMP MUST BE ABOVE APPROX 60 DEG. ALSO, TRY ADJUSTING THERMOSTAT
Most likely the fan motor has broken. Without the fan, the compressor will overheat. There is a safety device inside that automatically shuts off the compressor to keep the overheating from destroying it. Check to see if you can feel air movement in the front or back of the unit while it is running. If not, then the fan motor has definitely broke. I had this exact problem on mine.
If you take the unit apart, you will find a parts list inside the unit. It will be inside a small plastic pouch. You can order a new fan motor from Sears. The cost is $30 plus shipping.
You will have to move the condensing coil in the front out a bit in order to exchange the motors. Just be careful not to break any of the copper lines. They are copper so they will flex quite a bit without breaking. Still, use caution. If you break the lines, all the refrigerant will leak out and your unit will be useless.
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