I bought a set of old 6x9 tweeter/woofer speakers that were never used, but they were not stored properly so the rubber seals around the woofers cracked and promply disintigrated. Is there a way to replace these seals so i can use the speakers?
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Re: Seals around speakers are broekn and gone!
While it's certainly possible to replace the surrounds, whether it's economical to do so is another question. For very high-end speakers, there are often "repair kits" available to replace spiders, cones, surrounds and for some, even the voice coils. But such parts are usually not available for your run-of-the-mill speakers.
If the speakers are otherwise in good condition, and you are willing to spend some time with them, you can use an adhesive foam to construct a new surround. A product called "shoe goo" makes a good permanent bond. It's a super strong rubber cement and will hold up under the stresses of the moving speaker cone.
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is the difference between bi-wiring and bi-amping?
Bi-wiring is using the same power source (amplifier) but
connecting that power source to a woofer and a
midrange/tweeter on a
Bi-amping is using two separate power sources (amplifiers)
connecting one amplifier to a woofer and the other amplifier
midrange/tweeter on a speaker.
How do I bi-wire?
Your speaker must have two separate positive and negative
connections (one set for the woofer and one set for the
midrange/tweeter). Connect one wire between the positive
the amplifier/receiver the positive terminal on the speaker.
the other wire from the negative terminal on the
to the corresponding negative terminal on the speaker.
jumper straps connecting the two sets of speaker inputs.
process for the second set of terminals on the speaker,
them to the same positive and negative terminals on the
receiver/amplifier. Repeat the steps for each speaker you
Bi-Wire, connecting them to the appropriate terminals on
How do I bi-amp? Bi-amping is similar to bi-wiring, but involves
amplifiers: one for the woofer and one for the
Passive bi-amping involves a direct hookup between each
and the speaker terminals. True bi-amping involves hooking
preamp to an electronic crossover that replaces the passive
crossover network in the speaker. The active crossover then
to multiple power amplifiers.
Because the system is bi-amplified, it is important to replace the wires correctly to avoid phase problems. I don't know how the wires are colour coded, but if it is any help I downloaded the schematic and the wires are numbered 1: Woofer Active 2: Woofer Earth
3: Tweeter Earth and 4: Tweeter Active. Sorry if that's no help. Otherwise it should be easy to trace the wires to see which connect to earth.
If you did wire these in parallel to get the 2 ohm load, you will loose your balance. Also, you may have to bridge your amp.
To do this, go from the positive of the amp to both positives of both speakers. Then from the negative of the amp to both negatives of both speakers. If you have a 2 channel amp, you will have to bridge it. Note, make sure your amp is 2 ohm stable.
The six 1/2 speakers are your woofers,connect the positive and negative wires from the speaker to the 2 connections labeled on the crossover as W(woofer)+ pos and W(woofer) -- neg,hook the tweeters to the crossover connections labeled T(tweeter)+ pos and T(tweeter) -- neg,then hookup the 2 remaining connections labeled Amp to your amplifier,amp must be 2 or 4 channel stereo capable and give out enough power to properly drive the speakers so they achieve optimal performance.
There is an old cheap way to test any speaker. If you have a multi-meter, set it on OHMS. Then, while holding one lead against one speaker terminal, tap the other meter lead to the other speaker terminal. If the speaker is good, you will hear faint crackles. If you do not have a meter do not despair, you can do the same test using an AA or AAA battery with leads held to the battery.
Good luck! P.S. Nice speakers.
it does sound like you shorted out your crossover which can be fixed if you know what you are doing, but in the long run i would try to get another one i know that raidoshack sells some small ones and is also cheap, if your positive that you didnt short out the crossover se if it needs power, see if you can cross your woffers and tweeters on the crossover, if not is there any settings that u can change on the crossover? hope i helped :)
the best solution I've found is this: 1. Remove all the tweeter screws. 2. Take a thing metal rod (a coat hanger should work) and lightly tap the tweeter through the top port in the rear until it is loosened and comes out. The tweeter is totally sealed so you probably won't damage it if you need to do this to a working tweeter.
This method also works for the woofer but you need to be very careful to tap the frame or magnet of the woofer and not the cone.