Question about Kenmore Washing Machines
My washer started intermittently not spinning or tumbling. Taking off the bottom front panel, I noticed one of the pins on the motor side of the wire harness to the tach. looked a little loose. Slighting pushing on the wires while the washer is suppose to tumble or spin does indeed get it moving. Also, while spinning, I have been able to press on wires to get the motor to slow down - stop pressing and it speeds up.
I am not 100% convinced it is the tach. pins, perhaps it is another pin or wire that is the problem as it is hard to isolate one wire at a time.
Questions, does the description indicate the problem is likely the tach pins and how does one go about fixing the pins? I am ok with a solder iron, and such, but not sure how to get the pins out of the plug housing, which I prefer over just bypassing the plug altogether or splicing an entire new plug.
Thanks in advance for the advise!
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Snaggs, If your model number begins with 417 it could be a couple of issues. Start with the drain pump. Remove the bottom panel and see if the pump is clogged with coins or debris. It will be on the right. Check the pump impeller. Have a bunch of towells handy as you will have a lot of water coming out at you. When you drop the bottom panel you will be able to see if the belt is on in back. If this does not clear up the problem, more than likley it will be in the motor control board. Catriver...post back.
Posted on Sep 24, 2006
Perfect timing for the above problem and solution. My front loading Kenmore model 417.4104200 would, during the final spin time, tumble in one direction a few times then stop and reverse tumble and repeat the cycle until the cycle completed. There would be no abnormal sounds during this time. The drum would not spin at either normal or high speed. The one sentence in the comments from 'catriver' that saved me was, "This model will not go into high spin if the pressure switch detects there is water in the tub." Sure enough there was still very wet towels in the tub. I checked the water pump and found a paper clip which was preventing the pump from pulling the water from the tub. Once the clip was removed, the spin function began performing fine. If I were to do this again, I would try to avoid removing the rubber bellows. It turned out fairly difficult to re-install after I removed and cleaned it. Replacing the clamps without the correct tool was the problem. It looks like the pump can be removed and cleaned out with the bellows still attached.
Posted on Dec 02, 2006
IF THE FLOOR IS NOT ABSOLUTELY STABLE, IT WILL MAGNIFY A SMALL VIBRATION INTO A LARGE ONE. PUT SOMETHING ON THE DRYER IF IT SETS NEXT TO THE WASHER, AND TURN ON THE WASHER INTO SPIN. IF THE ITEM ON THE DRYER SHAKES, THE FLOOR IS MOVING.
IF THE WASHER IS ON CARPET, REMOVE THE CARPET OR CUT HOLES IN IT WHERE THE FEET ARE SO IT IS NOT SETTING ON THE CARPET. THE CARPET AND PAD WILL BE TOO SOFT FOR THE WASHER TO SET STABLE.
ALSO, PICK UP ON THE REAR OF THE WASHER TO RESET THE AUTO LEVELING REAR LEGS. YOU SHOULD HEAR THEM MOVE AND RESET WHEN YOU SET THE WASHER BACK DOWN.
Posted on Apr 10, 2008
I saw you post today on another forum and did not have time to put my thoughts down before work. I agree not a clutch issue I had to :), you would be so lucky. I own the machine and can’t offer any more troubleshooting then what you have done, good job of that. Unfortunately the FAV6800AW/FAV9800AW SM doesn’t have a whole lot of support for troubleshooting beyond what you have done for this issue. I found more info from the MAH3000 manual on the technical operation of the motor controller (slightly different controller). Both machines use the same troubleshooting paths. Remove JP4 which is;
P1 Motor Control common
P2 Torque (to Motor Controller) see page 1-11 MAH3000
P3 Motor Control Tach (to control board input)
My WAG is replace the Motor Controller 1st, then Control board 2nd and a possible tach issue related to the motor. That’s enough WAGing,…. but with troubleshooting not a complete WAG :).
Take a look at pages 2-5 thru 2-11, I keyed in on page 2-11 in the MAH3000, it may give you some additional insight, I know we are dealing with different machine designs but I think the designs are close regarding motor controller, the motor and what the Control Board is doing and looking for with input from the Motor Controller. I wish the FAV6800AW/FAV9800AW SM gave this kind of detail for troubleshooting. There is a nice little troubleshooting table on 2-11.
I keyed in on this note;
The motor control monitors the signals and communicates this information to the machine control (control board). The purpose of this signal is to tell the motor when to energize each winding in the motor and to tell the machine control the actual motor speed.
Then this note;
Note: If the machine control board does not receive an input signal from the motor control/tachometer circuit (JP4 connector), the motor speed will rapidly accelerate for 5 seconds then shut down. The machine control will sense a "locked rotor" condition and the motor will stop. If the motor control does not receive an input signal from the motor, the motor will "****" for 5 seconds then shut down.
I don’t believe you have that condition. I have worked with a forum member who had an issue with the motor controller related to an Lr error, locked rotor error and replacing the Motor Controller fixed the issue. Form here I vote for an issue with the Motor Controller. Not having known good parts makes this a difficult job.
The control board is under warranty for 5 yrs from DOP, the Control Board is 2 yrs. Ebay is a good source 25001079
I would push Maytag CSV for both. I got them to send me a Control Board after discussing my troubleshooting and that I had a neighbor (me) that was a repair tech who would install. I also had to send them copy of my warranty not sure why they beeded that my machine was on file with them.
In your console you will find a Troubleshooting guide if you haven’t pulled it out already. It has the schematic for the machine which I find handy. If you want a soft PDF copy of the schematic I can e-mail you. Just ping me at firstname.lastname@example.org. I use that for one-way contact, just respond back on this post if you ping me, I don’t check the account for month’s at a time.
With my limited knowledge I will try to help you. Good luck. Rich
Posted on Jun 20, 2009
Testimonial: "Awesome help and advice -- thank you to everyone!"
Tips for a great answer:
Jan 06, 2016 | Washing Machines
Dec 07, 2014 | Washing Machines
Mar 11, 2014 | Kenmore 3.5 cu. ft. Front Load Electric...
Oct 27, 2012 | Washing Machines
Sep 03, 2012 | Kenmore 98702 Stacked Washer/Dryer
Apr 17, 2010 | Tricity Bendix AW1000W Front Load Washer
Oct 12, 2009 | Kenmore 20722
Oct 18, 2008 | Kenmore 43142 Front Load Washer
Dec 15, 2006 | Kenmore 43142 Front Load Washer
Sep 23, 2006 | Kenmore 43142 Front Load Washer
30 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!
Step 2: Please assign your manual to a product: