Ice cube maker just stopped working. Ice cube arm has no tension to it.
Ice cube maker was filled with ice and the bar was up. I shifted the ice out to fill the bin evenly and then after the ice got low again I put the bar down again to start making ice again and it had stopped working. No noise of water filling up and it just stopped. The bar feels like it's loose. Before when I put the bar up there was a tension to it, not anymore.
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Re: Ice cube maker just stopped working. Ice cube arm...
If you can find someone that will take yours apart and rebuild the components inside the front of the ice maker would be good. The problem is with older ice makers you may over look the next part to fail. Your model has a tricky spring that helps the arm lock into place. You can visit our site or call the toll free number and get free help and advice. If you can locate your refrigerator model number that will also be helpful Their numbers always look like this for example 213.54698
Click link below and give us a visit, Sea Breeze
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When the bucket is full the arm is up the maker is off.
If the ice maker has a on/off button in off the ice maker is off
If the ice maker internal heater fails the cubes will not release and the white plastic ejector arms will be rotated CCW and pressing against the ice in the tray, Normal position for ejector arms is vertical.
If water solenoid has failed or water supply not available the ice maker will cycle. The ice tray will be empty,(hard to see if ice tray is empty). Check and replace water fill solenoid.
If ice in tray and ejector arms vertical several possibilities.
Freezer not cold enough to trip thermostat in ice maker to initiate release cycle.
Check freezer temperature <10 Fahrenheit thermostat in ice maker failure
The best way to check the operation is to manually lock the arm up into the off retention position. Wait a minimum of one hour. Open door and release arm down. Observe the operation of the ice maker. Is after a minute or so the ejector arm does not rotate then it is likely the ice maker has failed internally. If the ejector turns and no ice than you can assume either the water supply is off external from the refrigerator or more likely the water solenoid located behind the bottom back cover has failed. It is also possible that the hose that connects the solenoid to the ice maker has frozen right where it enters the freezer just above the ice maker. You should see ice built up at the entrance where the water fills the tray if this has occurred.
When the ice bin fills up, it won't let the arm all the way down. The arm must go down for more ice to drop into bin. Sometimes an ice cube or two will get caught under the arm and prevent it from cycling. Continuing to use the ice maker will empty bin but no new ice is made. Clear any ice cubes from under the arm and the cycle will start again. My ice maker takes about twelve hours to fill after it has been emptied but ice from the door is available almost imediately.
With the arm up in the ice tray, the water solenoid valve should be closed. When the arm drops, that tells the ice maker to open the water solenoid valve to fill the ice maker tray. It sound like the leak is at the inlet side of the water solenoid valve. On some models its not easy to get to, but follow the water line to it. Hope this is it for you. Good luck.
There are usually 2 small solenoid valves that are used to control water. Both are generally installed at the rear close to the bottom of the fridge. One of the solenoids controls the water flow for drinks and the other is to control water flow to the ice maker. You can determine which is which by tracing the water supply tubes from the freezer compartment to the solenoid or by process of elimination. The latter method requires that you feel for movement (clicking) or heat on the water dispenser solenoid while someone starts to fill a glass with water from the fridge.
Before going any further, make sure that the ice cube detection arm in the freezer is not up. Gently push the arm down if it is. When ice cubes are ready, the ice maker turns on a small heater to break the bond of the ice cubes to the cube mold. The arm is lifted up and out of the way. Then the mechanical fingers wipe or push on the cubes to dislodge them from the ice cube mold and they fall into the container. The arm is then lowered again and rests on top of the ice collected in the container. The position of the arm when resting on the ice cubes determines whether or not any more ice cubes are made.
If the arm is hanging down, then ice cube production should be on. The problem may be either a faulty solenoid valve (mentioned above), switch in the ice maker assembly - the detection arm in particular or wiring between.
In my Kitchen Aid bottom freezer there is a metal arm(?) that I lift up to stop the ice maker from making ice. When I start running low on ice, I push the metal arm(?) back down for it to make ice again. Hope this is the solution for your Kitchen Aid too.
no you shouldnt have to replace the ice maker, the stop arm probably is not in place. pull the ice maker out and check where the arm goes into the motor head. I think that will solve it for you. Good Luck.
There is an adjustment for the "harvest" bar (The bar you lifted up).
That bar you are lifting up tells the ice-maker that the cubes have fallen into the ice storage and starts the ice-making cycle over.
It is also the Limit switch for the ice level in the storage container ... if it stays up for preset time determined by the manufacturer it stops making ice... most all ice-machines use the same devices. they vary little in design.
Sometimes you can just gently bend the bar down to the point where it turns-off the machine at the level you want ... unless you can get to the adjustment hinge you can adust it there.
For the fact it goes off when you lift it all the way up tells me the harvest switch is turning the ice-maker off.