Question about Dometic RM2852 Refrigerator

2 Answers

Refrigerator totally inop. 120 VAC & 12 VDC present. Unit is model # RM3662.

Refrigerator completely dead. Unit has 120 VAC and 12 VDC power to it.

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  • freddyk1970 May 25, 2009

    Dometic Americana RM2852 refrigerator does not work. Has power to it, light inside works and lights at top indicating 'AUTO' mode are illuminated, but refrig doesn't work in any mode. Gas is being supplied to unit (I think, oven works and tanks are full)

    Please help? Are these things worth fixing or do you just replace? It is a 1998 model year camper


  • gene_nichols May 28, 2009

    The RM3662 Dometic Refrigerator main (only) PC card was inop. A repairman came by today and replaced it with another card which is a generic card to fit several models. This fixed my problem at a cost of $225.00. This price included mileage to my home to fix the problem. This is much better than having to drag the camper to a dealer and let it sit on their lot for a week before they look at it. It took the repaiman a little over 1 hour to repair the unit.

  • gene_nichols May 29, 2009

    freddyk1970 what was the model # of the DOMETIC Fridge that you had repaired? If it is the same as mine I intend on calling DOMETIC for assistance. Also how old is yours? Mine is 2002. Thanks,



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Yes, I did the same thing. I had a qualified RV repairman change out the board. He also told me there is a recall on this specific issue and that DOMETIC should pay for not only the board, but quite possibly the cost of the labor to repair.

Dometic phone # is 888-803-0013

Posted on May 29, 2009

  • freddyk1970 May 29, 2009

    My fridge was RM2852 by Dometic Americana

    The camper is a 1998 so I'd assume fridge is too

    Have not called Dometic yet, so I don't know if this would still be covered


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Using one of the two power supplies is there any running sound. It is important that the van is not blocked by lint. The fan is easy to stall with spider webs and dirt. good luck

Posted on May 27, 2009

  • Ned C Cook
    Ned C Cook May 28, 2009

    It is important the unit is level. These work like the early Servel rifrigerators but use a pilot flame instead of feul oil. You can try the old trick of taking the unit out and turning it upside down for 24 to 48 hours. It allows the amonia to seperate and starts the cyclr. . Once it starts you don't have to do it again unless it sits unused. Are the coils hot in the back at all?



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1 Answer

110 volts works but 12 volt does nothing, checked voltage 13.6 v. Any suggestions. Thanks.

RV Refrigerator Stop Working? - RVing - Fun Times Guide
If your refrigerator works on gas, but won't work on electric, you may have a burned out.... Cirtis, We are camping in Montana and our dometic refrigerator decided to stop ......Won't know until you can confirm you have proper voltage to the fridge. ... If you have confirmed both 12 vdc and 110 vac power at the fridge, I would ...

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1 Answer

It's 110v model and I want to run it on 230v. If I use a transformer what rating would you reccomend. If I try to convert to 230v what would I need to do. Also can you point me to an operations manual....

You need the total amperes of the refrigerator and multiply by the refrigerator volts to get voltamps, then choose a transformer that is rated at least 120% of the voltamps of the refrigerator. e.g. refrigerator runs at 120 volts and 7.5 amperes, 120 x 7.5 is 900, then 120% of 900 is 1080. A transformer of at least 1080 VA (volt amps) that is 220-240 volts primary and 120 volts secondary. 1080 volt amps is same as 1.08kva (kilo volt amps).

Mar 15, 2015 | Refrigerators

1 Answer

Installed a model# UKI1000AXX ice maker on a Model# CFB1921AR Magic Cher refrigerator. Can not get voltage to the water silinoid has been installed in the refrigerator for appox. 48 hours.

Yes you can check the voltage to the valve, but first a word of caution. To start the icemaker and let it cycle so toward the end of the cycly power will be sent to the valve, THE ICEMAKER MUST BE STARTED USING A JUMPER WIRE AND THIS COULD BE DANGEROUS AND RESULT IN YOU BEING SHOCKED IF NOT DONE CORRECTLY. If you chose to proceed and check for power to valve;
remove front cover of i/m
usea jumper wires about 16 or 18 gauge and strip both ends so about a 1/2" one wire is bare on each end
place bare ends into holes on icemaker front marked as T & H
the main gear will start moving,the jumper wire may have to wiggled to get a good connection
once gear moves and within 10 seconds you will hear a click REMOVE JUMPER WIRE AS SOON AS CLICK IS HEARD
the fingers on icemaker will rotate in a 360 degree rotation,if you think of the fingers as the small hand of a clock in about the 10 to 12 o'clock position their should be 120 vac at water valve if i/m is good. if 120 vac present replace water valve, if 120 vac not present replace icemaker

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1 Answer

Unit does not seem to be cooling

Ensure the power supply is 120/22/240 VAC or 12/24 VDC power, with AC power as the preferable source. An improper power supply may result in poor performance or lack of cooling by the refrigerator.
Ensure the unit is plugged in and turned "ON" if it does not seem to be working. Check the fuse, located on the side of the inverter case.

Listen to the compressor, which is located in the rear of the unit near the bottom. If the compressor is not running,it makes a humming sound, disconnect power to the unit and contact a service technician, as either the compressor or thermostat may be defective. If the compressor is running,
Turn the temperature control dial if the refrigerator does not seem to be cold or warm enough. Number 1 on the dial is the warmest and number 5 is the coldest. After changing the temperature control dial, leave the refrigerator door closed for several hours to allow the temperature to change.

Jun 11, 2011 | Refrigerators

1 Answer

Will not run only on gas but will not cool

If it works on gas and NOT electricity then the heating element is not getting power or the heating element is open. The heating element is located on the tubing just aft of where the pilot flame is on the bottom of the copper tube. You should check for power to the heating element and with power off perfom a continuity check on the element. I really do not at this time think you have a heating element problem.

There is a 120VAV element a AND a 12VDC element. The chances of both of these failing at the same time is pretty slim.

There is a note in the manual:
If the gas only pushbutton is depressed the
lamp will illuminate green and the refrigerator
will only operate on the LP gas mode, even if q
120 or 12 volts are available.

Another significant change in the third
generation A.E.S. system is how the 12 volt
heating element mode operates. As with the
first and second generation series, the 12 volt
heating element circuit is energized by the
ignition lock terminal. This terminal receives
its DC voltage from a wire that runs from the
run side of the vehicle’s ignition switch to the
refrigerator’s ignition lock terminal. This
allows the 12 volt heating element to be
energized only when the RV is traveling down
the road.
When the ignition lock terminal is energized
by the ignition key, the printed circuit board
must see at least 13.3 volts DC for a period of
40 seconds before the system will activate the
12 volt DC heating element.
If 13.3 volts is not achieved in this time frame,
the electronics will light the LP gas burner and
the refrigerator will operate on the LP gas
LOWER THAN 13.3 V.D.C. =LP Operation

If the battery voltage remains low after the
delay cycle, the automatic controls will light
the refrigerator on the LP gas mode and stay
on the gas mode until the printed circuit board
sees approximately 13.3 volts DC to the
terminal block.

For proper cooling on the AC mode, the AC
voltage to the refrigerator should not vary
more than 10 percent from the voltage rating
on the heating element. Heating elements used
in Dometic refrigerators could have a rated
voltage of 110 volts, 115 volts or 120 volts AC.
Because of this, the power requirements for
each differently rated heating element will
vary. For example, if a heating element is
rated for 100 volts, the acceptable power range
would be between 99 to 121 volts AC. If an
element is rated for 115 volts, the acceptable
power range would be between 103.5 to 126.5
volts AC. If the heater is rated for 120 volts,
the acceptable AC power range would be
between 108 to 132 volts AC.

The unit to operate on either AC or DC must have 13.3 volts to the unit. I think this is where your problem lies in that the battery voltage is less than 13.3 VDC

If all of that checks good just repsond here and I will help you. There is still more that can be checked.

Thanks for choosing FixYa.


Aug 24, 2010 | Dometic RM2652 Refrigerator

1 Answer

Generac 5500XL, model#09778-7 no output. Changed the power regulator board. No luck. Flashed the 120 plug with 12-30vdc from DC board. Nothing. Excited the brushes directly with DC board. Only got 2.36VDC...

Double check your brush istallation. positive side toward rotor bearing, if you put 12 vdc directly into brush pack and check with a meter at the 120 vac outlet and have low or no voltage, you may have no resistance in your rotor slip rings, excitor & main windings also need a resistance check. 12.6-16.7 ohms (rotor) 2.26-2.80 ohms (excitation) .26-.32/.28-.35 main or power windings. Note: unit running when appling 12 volts to brush pack. 2-5 second only, ( This test tells you the rotor & stotor are ok )

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1 Answer

Why won't it turn on?

Sounds like you need a new battery. When they go dead you will still see the green light but it will not turn on or only on for a second.

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1 Answer

Fuse missing

I would start with a 1.5 AMP fuse (175 watts / 12 VDC = 1.6 amp)
Make sure the fuse is rated for at least 120 VAC. Hope this helps!..Gary

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