Question about Alpine PXA-H700 Car Video Player

1 Answer

PXA-H700 optimum set up...

The PXA-H700 is running off my OEM head unit (GM, Onstar, XM, Tuner) wherein the "front 1" RCA inputs are being used (the H700 has room for two sets of front inputs (front 1 and front 2, I assume for the tweets, and the other for the woofers). I am running a set of memphis, 6.5" components with its own crossover in front, and a pair of memphis 5 1/4" components, with xover in the rear. I just can't get the volume I'm looking for. The rear speakers are run from the Bose amp that came in my truck, and are controlled via the OEM tuner (not hooked into the PXA). The way these yahooo's set me up, I need to turn the volume up on the OEM tuner up until the PXA-H700 flashed a 'input level error', then turn down the OEM volume until the warning disappears. The problem, I don't get the volume I am looking for, very soft and unbalanced. Do I need 2 amps for the front (tweets, then 6 1/2" woofs), then another amp for the rear and sub? I currently have a JL audio sub, hooked into the center channel of the PXA-H700, running off the same amp as the fronts) What is the most effective way to set up the PXA-H700? two amps for the front, another for the rear, and a third for the sub? Help!!

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  • 6 more comments 
  • jsiewert May 23, 2009

    Thank you.  Right now I have the JLAudio HD/600 running the fronts and the sub, bose amp runs the rears (and controlled from the head unit)  How do I leverage my new HD/600 amp the best way?  I am planning an install for the rear amp but get confused over bridging and ohms and all that stuff?  I think I understood your answer, just want to clarify...


    is there anyway to get away from adjusting the head unit volume and bypass the input level problem altogether.  Right now the OEM tuner volume is set to about 25% (this eliminates the "input level error", but I am at volume = 35, on the PXA, and the sound is not enough if I am driving to appreciate.  



    Did you say a seperate channel for each speaker?  I like that idea, but have no idea how I would config the amps to run properly.  I am going to have my local shop do this, however, i want to give them specific instructions on what I am looking for, and your response HELPS me.


    I want to take advantage of the two Front inputs on the PXA, front 1 and front 2, to get the most felxibility in tuning my ride...do I need to eliminate the memphis xover althogether?


    Again, thank you for your help...you are saving me!



  • Anonymous May 23, 2009

    yes, the hd/600/4

  • jsiewert May 23, 2009

    Yes, its the HD600/4 Thank you again...

  • jsiewert May 23, 2009

    Yes...its the 600/4

  • jsiewert May 23, 2009

    Checking now...

  • jsiewert May 23, 2009

    I assume you are referring to the MX mode..appreciate your help VERY much...

  • jsiewert May 23, 2009

    Thank you for the drawing, I assume this drawing is for my current set up, without the beneift of an amp to run the rears.  I think i am set up as you indicate in your drawing, so I feel a little better.  Believe it or not, my manual is different than the one you URL'd me...different pgs, THANK you!



  • jsiewert May 23, 2009

    Thank you....


    How do I bypass the bose amp if the back speakers are hooked to it?  Meaning, what do I connect to what?  The rear speaker wires are hooked into the bose, is this just an RCA swap?  where is the bose amp?


    Appreciate your patience with me, you have been very helpful!

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  • Master
  • 15,935 Answers

The way the EQ is hooked up is correct.

You set the factory radio to a set level, then use the volume on the EQ for everyday adjustments.

I believe your problem lies in the amplification.
Your BOSE amplifier was made to run a 4 channel 8ohm stero load.
Low powered - high in sound quality.

You have swapped the factory 8 ohm speakers (15W) for 4 ohm power hungry ones.
Now the amplifier is working harder to produce the same output.

You would be best served eliminating the factory amplifier and getting 1 good 4 or 5 channel amp to power your speakers.

a 4 channel amplifier could be used stereo (left and right) on channels 1 and 2, (2ohm stereo load)
and bridge channels 3 and 4 for your subwoofer.

For a true surround sound - a 5 channel amplifier could run each speaker individually, and the 5th channel is reserved for the subwoofer.

a small dedicated 75wx4 channel amplifier with built in crossover, and level gain controls - would blow your socks off. It is 200x better than the factory 12Watt amplifier. Your ears will love you for it :D

If you need more help - just let me know.

Thanks for using FixYa - a FixYa rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.

Posted on May 23, 2009

  • 7 more comments 
  • blueextc3221
    blueextc3221 May 23, 2009

    give me a minute, and i'll throw together a quickie diagram for you.

  • blueextc3221
    blueextc3221 May 23, 2009

    the JL amplifier is the 600/4 correct??

  • blueextc3221
    blueextc3221 May 23, 2009

    BTW - CLICK HERE for your owners manual if you dont have it.

    There is a setting I want you to check on page 27.

    Essentually-it is a LOUD button.

    Set it on Maximum and see if this changes anything.

    I am at my home PC right now and now realize i dont have my normal drafting program.. so im doing a rudimentary MSPaint drawing that is taking forever.

  • blueextc3221
    blueextc3221 May 23, 2009

    Sorry - CLICK HERE (forgot to hyperlink)



    ok - here is the cra ppy picture i came up with

    it will give you a good idea of how to utilize your current setup to its fullest potential.




  • blueextc3221
    blueextc3221 May 23, 2009

    Coming from the EQ Brain - use the "front" pair of RCAs to the FRONT amp inputs.....

    and the SUB or CENTER RCA to the REAR input on the amplifier.



    Change the crossover on the FRONT output of the amplifier to HP and set the filter slope to 12dB, set the filter frequency to 120 and set the gain adjustment properly.



    Change the crossover of REAR to LP, set the frequency to 80hz and set the gain properly.

  • blueextc3221
    blueextc3221 May 23, 2009

    with a dedicated amplifier - you should have more than enough sound.

    There must be a gain not set properly, or a setting in the EQ that is wrong.

    In your initial post, you hadn't mentioned the JL amp - so your setup sounds good - even with the factory amp running the rears (as they are just for fill anyway)

    But powering them the same as the fronts will have a positive effect on the overall loudness as well.

    You will get 150W @ 2ohm shared by the speakers- per side- (75w each) as opposed to the 12W your factory amplifier is supplying.



    Hope this helps explain better.



    Thanks for using FixYa!!



  • blueextc3221
    blueextc3221 May 23, 2009

    no - the drawing is the way you SHOULD have the system set up... eliminating the factory amplifier and using the amplifier you have to its fullest potential

  • blueextc3221
    blueextc3221 May 23, 2009

    Channel 1 for the left side of vehicle

    Channel 2 for right side

    3&4 bridged to sub

  • blueextc3221
    blueextc3221 May 23, 2009

    The factory amp is usually under the dash on the passenger side or in the kick panel (you havent indicated the year or model of your truck)

    To bypass - simply unplug the output side going to your speakers and tap into the correct speaker wires.

    Your local shop will have no problems with this.

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