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Cannot figure out how cable threads through

Need to replace the cable to the rear derailleur but cannot figure out how the cable threads through the Falcon DynaGrip MLG-26i Grip shift actuator. Is there a diagram somewhere??

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This video may help

http://bicycletutor.com/grip-shift-cable/

Posted on Mar 02, 2010

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Go to Parktool.com

Posted on May 26, 2009

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1 Answer

I have a loose Shimano 105 8500 shifter blade. How do I tighten them?


I'm not sure what you mean by "shifter blade", but I might assume it might be the cage of the derailleur. On the front derailleur there is either a rivet or a small bolt at the trailing edge that holds the two halves together, if it is a rivet then it is not repairable and the derailleur will need to be replaced, if it is the bolt, it is probably a 8mm socket head, tighten to the right. If it keeps loosening up from road vibration then the threads could be stripped (replace the derailleur), or else put a drop of Blue Loctite on the threads to prevent it from backing out. If you are talking about the rear derailleur cage that holds the two pulleys in place, these have two Allen type bolts, probably 3mm or 4mm Allen wrench size. The bolt slides through a small bushing inside the plastic pulley wheel, the bushing is slightly wider then the pulley to prevent over tightening the cage plates against the pulley, thus preventing the pulley from spinning freely, use the Blue Loctite if the bolts keep coming loose. Blue Loctite (also known as 242 Loctite I believe) is the removable type and provides some extra friction to prevent bolts from backing out. Now if by "shifter blade" you are referring to the shift/brake levers, these have a small amount of "play" in them from the factory, a little bit of wiggle. They basically are not serviceable. Try adjusting the derailleur cable to see if that removes excess play. If they still have an excessive amount of play in them, then you will need to replace the shift/brake levers as a unit. If you do this, make sure you get the shifter that is designed for the number of cogs you have in your gear cluster and front chain rings. I would recommend also replacing your chain and rear cluster at the same time so that all part wear evenly for optimal shifting performance.

Feb 15, 2018 | Shimano Cycling

1 Answer

Rear Derailleur mount broke. I need the bike for Ironman Wisconsin on Sunday, so my LBS cut the remainder of the mount off and mounted a new hanger that threads onto the QR skewer....meaning that, to...


The only other solution I can think of is to shorten the chain and make it a three speed by eliminating the rear derailleur all together. If you have found a way of remounting your derailleur though I would go that way. All the best in the Ironman

Sep 10, 2011 | Cervelo P2 Carbon

1 Answer

Shimano STX (combo brake and shifter) rear shifter does nothing up or down. Shifters move but do not engage the derailleur. The cable is tight and obviously not broken. Is the shifter broken or can...


You can't have end-to-end intact cable movement and NOT move the derailleur unless it is NOT tight to begin with. Look closer.

You need to figure out at which end the problem lies.

You can elevate the rear wheel (or hang the bike by the tip of the seat on a low branch) and pedaling it forward with your hand you can grab the bare exposed cable somewhere in its routing (usually along the down tube) and pull sideways on it (away from the bike) to see if the derailleur moves as expected when the cable REALLY moves. Then you can decide if the shifter is or is not controlling the cable.

Everything is replaceable as required.

Adjustments: http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/categories/derailleur-systems

or use a search engine "how to...." for videos.

Jul 09, 2011 | Shimano Cycling

1 Answer

How do I adjust the gears, which have been slipping?


If you mean that your gears are slipping by means of the chain improperly engaging or riding along the walls of the cassettes outer gears, you can adjust the rear derailleur by means of a few tools. You can control how far in and out the derailleur moves by adjusting the two limit screws with either a proper fitting allen wrench or a small phillips head screwdriver. This won't have any affect on the inside gears but if it slips on the outer-most gear, it may help. You can then adjust the cable pull by hand on the adjusting knarp if present on the derailleur. It is the little (sometimes plastic shrouded) adjusting mechanism which the cable housing seats itself in. It is found directly on the derailleur and commonly on the shifter being used with the derailleur. You can rotate the knarp clockwise to loosen the cable or counter-clockwise to tighten. If the knarp has been threaded all the way in or too far out, you can return it to its original position and tighten or loosen the shifter cable manually using either a 5mm allen wrench, a 9mm box end wrench, or a specialty tool. Depending on the positioning of the derailleur and its design, tightening or loosening the cable will affect the position at which it is placed for each related gear. With a little bit of time and examining, you can hopefully figure out the most effective setting which would hopefully allow the derailleur to engage each individual gear without hesitation. To tell wether you adjusted it properly, follow these guidelines. 1, Make sure each gear being engaged is reflected on the position of the shifter. 2, When shifting gears by hand, the chain should not drop below the selected gear nor should it hesitate to move into the selected gear from its previous gear. 3, Check the limit screws position on the derailleur and make sure it is adjusted so your low and high gears are engaged without the chain slipping past the low or high gear, and slipping of the cassette. 4, When tuning the rear derailleur, make sure you account for the change in the chains travel path due to front chainwheel shifts.

- If the derailleur is not an issue, and you attempted to adjust it with similar results afterwards, look over the drivetrain of the bike closely while it is in motion and try to see the exact component that seems to be the source of the problem. I will be happy to dig deeper into this problem if you wish to ask another question regarding this issue. Good luck.

Mar 03, 2011 | Dahon Speed D7

1 Answer

Broken cable. Need new one, And manual instruction to put it back on.


There are 2 main types of cables on your bicycle, Derailleur and Brake, and two of each of those.

The derailleur cable controls either the front or rear derailleur (gear changer),

The brake cable controls either the front or rear brake.

There are many different types of bicycles and controlling mechanisms. Manuals are available from the individual component companies (ex. A shimano derailleur manual, can be found at www.shimano.com) but you need to know the model of that companies derailleur to get the correct manual. One other hindrance may be whether you have the correct tools, most derailleurs cables can install with basic tools such as allen wrenches and screwdrivers but brakes can require specialty tools.

I would recommend or suggest that you take the bike into your local bike shop and have them replace the cable quickly and properly. Since that is where you will have to buy the cable anyway, Many times these same bike shops have extra manuals laying around from new bike builds that will instruct you the basics of the components you are working on, just ask, They are free cause they throw them away anyway.

Dec 07, 2010 | Cycling

2 Answers

How do i adjust the tension on the cables which control the triple chainring [ shimano 515 ]gearing and the rear gearing? presumably there will be other adjustements to make after this is done.


The tension on a derailleur cable is determined by a spring in the derailleur itself, and is generally not adjustable. The available adjustments on the derailleur control the limits to it's travel (and in the case of the rear deraileur, the chain tension). The shift levers that you operate to change gears generally have an adjustable resistance (to keep them from sliding into another position), but this has zero effect on the tension on the cables. If you have indexing shifters there are additional adjustments. If your cables are going slack it might seem that the spring in the derailleur is too weak, but this is a lubrication issue, or you may need to replace your cables. There is a good article on derailleur adjustments at - http://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=64 Good luck

Aug 12, 2010 | Cycling

1 Answer

Alivio 8 speed rear derailleur cable broken


There is a bolt on the derailleur that holds the cable. Loosen it to remove the cable from the derailleur. If there is a cap on the cable, remove it by pinching it with a pair of pliers. i do not know what style shifters you are using, but most all of them have a plastic cap covering the port for the cable. Shift to the highest gear to prep the cable for release and remove the cap. Push the cable back into the shifter and it should come out of the port you opened. Now, slide the new cable in and pull it through its circuit of cable housings and back to the derailleur. Attach the cable and shift to the lowest gear (big cog). Now, pull the cable along the top tube or seat stay (wherever it is more accessible) away from that tube very firmly several times. This pre-stretches the cable and minimizes necessity of adjustment later. The harder you pull, the better. Once you have stretched the cable, shift to the highest gear again and release the cable on the derailleur. Adjust the barrel on the derailleur to the center of its range and turn in the one on your shifter all the way. Now, pull the cable taut and reatach it on the derailleur. You can cut the cable to length and put a cap on it now. Shift into your middle gear and use the barrel adjuster on the derailleur to align the jockey wheel over the appropriate cog of the cassette. You should be all set!

i hope this helps
-matthew

Nov 12, 2009 | Cycling

1 Answer

Chain coming off fron gear when coasting or trying to pedal backwards? Local bike repair shop indicated that a bearing maybe shot but that they couldn't replace the front gear unit.


Oh, it is too bad you are in the Bronx. i'd have that fixed right quick. There are probably a pair of culprits at work here. One, your derailleurs no doubt need adjustment. Two, your rear derailleur hanger may be bent. These two can both cause the problem. Start with the rear hanger, because that will be easier to see.
Flip the bike onto the bars and saddle and take a look at your rear derailleur. Is it going straight up and down and is it aiming straight with your frame? If it isn't, you have found your problem. The hanger needs to be straightened. This can be done without any tools if you have a good eye. Hold the derailleur by the body and bend it to make the alignment good with the cassette. If this is NOT the problem (but i really think it is) then here is a walk-through on adjusting your derailleurs and hopefully this will solve it.
Here is how to adjust the rear (first):
-Set your front gear to its middle position.
-Shift the rear into the highest gear.
-Disconnect the derailleur cable.
-Screw the barrel adjuster on the shifter (or down tube if it is a road bike) to fully turned in clockwise.
Screw the barrel adjuster on the rear derailleur to its halfway point.
-On the back of the rear derailleur you will see two screws. One will be marked "H" and the other "L". These mean high and low. Adjust high to get your jockey wheel on your derailleur perfectly centered over the smallest cog on the cassette. Manually shift by pushing the derailleur (while cranking the pedals) to the largest cog (1st gear) and set this stop on the derailleur "L" where the jockey wheel is over the cog, but past it where it would be touching the outside of the cog if they were side-by-side.
-Pull the derailleur cable taut and re-tighten it.
Shift the rear to the middle gear and adjust the derailleur using the barrel adjuster to center the jockey wheel directly over the cog it should be.
-Now shift up and down the cassette, cranking as you go and in every gear, back-pedal to make sure there is no problem with the gears hopping. If they do, adjust as necessary with the barrel adjuster.
Here are some tips for the front:
-Shift into low gear on the front and rear derailleurs. Make sure the chain is not rubbing on the front derailleur. If it is, adjust the screw marked "L" until the chain just clears the derailleur but does not touch it.
-Pull the derailleur cable taut and re-tighten it.
-Now shift the front into the middle gear and while it is still in the low gear in the back, crank to make sure the chain is not rubbing on the front derailleur. If it does, adjust the tension of the cable with its barrel adjuster.
-Shift the front into high gear and shift the rear to the highest gear, cranking as you shift. If the chain is not rubbing, you are all set.

Sep 16, 2009 | Cycling

2 Answers

Shimano Tourney rear derailleur is stuck on smallest gear and will not shift. How do I adjust the tension correctly?


There are several things that could be wrong. You could have thrown your chain (you couldn't ride at all if so). The bike could have been crashed and the derailleur bent. The cable might have slipped where it bolts to the derailleur. Or the cable or shifter could need maintenance, too. It is most likely one of the above. If it is only the adjustment, there are two stop screws on the derailleur that can be adjusted.

My best advice for you is to either find a bicycle repair manual at a local bookstore or your library that can show you some of the detail. Or just let your local bike shop do the repair.

Aug 30, 2009 | Mountain Shimano Tourney 6/7 Rear...

1 Answer

Replacing Attack's rear derailleur cable


Stop everything! Do not take the shifter apart! Go to the rear derailleur and look where the cable is attached. There is a bolt with an allen key head, it is an 8mm. Losen off the bolt. REFER TO PARKTOOL.COM

Apr 12, 2009 | Sram Attack 9-Speed Trigger Mountain Bike...

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