The 5 speaker system worked great for two years, then just stopped outputting any sound. The sub powers up and the satellite speaker powers up but no sound. I tried hooking them up to two other computers with the same result. I opened the back of the sub to look at the circuit card and there were no obvious problems such as burnt areas on the board and the output drivers appeared to be ok.
Had the same issue as treefarmer and guest. Initially I thought that the voltage controlled pre-amps were the problem as well but further testing proved that wrong. If you remove the yellow wire from the RT Front speaker PCB and measure the voltage at the wiper of the pot it is still too low (should swing from 0 to 5 volts). On investigation it turned out that the pot was failing.
I couldn't find a proper replacement pot so had to fix the broken one. After removal and dissassembly it discovered there was a leakage path between the carbon trace and the bushing assembly. The top deck which contains the carbon path for the wiper can be removed by bending back the tabs that hold it to the metal case. Carefully cleared the shorting path with a probe and retested with an ohm meter..
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First of all, nothing wrong with the fuse. A fuse is nothing but a short piece of wire with a resistance value. If the unit turns on, fuse is fine. The fact that the headphones you plugged in are working tells you that the music is finding it's way up to that point. You must realize that the speakers themselves have additional circuitry that the headphones don't use. If you could obtain a diagram for the circuitry you might find that a capacitor or a diode or a transistor got "zapped" when the high voltage was applied.
If you have this diagram and you don't know what component is defective, can you post that diagram and I would be glad to help!
The Bose system has sound that is unmatched, the 901 with the equalizer is amazing. I have done what you are thinking of doing, the speaker runs 5ohms giving more power to the coils, adding a sub will color the sound and will not give the desired results, the 901 equalizer may be damaged with the modification of the sub, not recommended.
The speaker level input option is designed for receivers that don't have digital output for the sub, used this way when you set to digital the speaker outputs only get the higher range outputs so won't reproduce much bass. To get the sub to work in digital mode you need to use the digital output (single RCA) from the amp to the sub
grady66, We will start with the easy one, Phase. The phase selector is a setting that can be adjusted by sound; which one sounds better? Either one will work fine. It's mainly for situations where the sub enclosure is located at a distance or behind the listening area. The 'in and out' crossover selector and the input from the receiver goes together. The 'in and out' crossover selector is asking if you want to use the internal crossover to block the bass from getting to the satellite speakers. Most home surround sound receivers only have the one sub out and most subs have both left and right inputs. When there is a single signal being fed to the sub you use the subs left input or buy a splitter and send the signal into both left and right, but either way will work equally the same.
There is two ways to connect the speakers to the receiver.
1) Cross-over 'In': you connect the output speaker wires from the receiver to the speaker inputs on the sub and the speaker outputs on the sub to the satellite speakers; the sub will get its sound from the input speaker wires.
2) Cross-over 'Out': you connect the sub to the receiver using the receiver's single sub out, then connect the satellite speakers directly to the receiver's speakers outputs; in this configuration the satellite speakers are given a full range of signal including the bass.
I have used #2 with the same system and had great results.
Your Acoustimass 5 is a powered sub with powered surround speakers. If you are not getting sound output, the internal fuse may be open and you will have to replace it. Bose used a heavy multiple output cable terminated in a miniature DIN plug to connect speakers. You may be able to find one on eBay.
Try looking in the audio settings,it might be configured for stereo/mono or any number of surround sound settings e.g; 5:1, 7:1 In which case it might shut off the power to the circuit board inwhich the speakers are connected.If that fails .......Take it back!! Either the connection inside the speakers is faulty or the connections in the unit are faulty.
1ST.-The right jack could be damaged!!
Usually, there is a [+} posaitve & [-] negative input\output to speaker connections. Not all [-]neg. is ground.Sometimes the [+] pos. is grounded. [The exception to the rule is that u SEE the black wire going to ground] the reason I am letting u know this is that u can test the INSIDES of the sound system.
If u can get inside of the unit. Cut the left speaker output [+] posative from both outputs. criss\cross wires.Place left speaker output to right speaker jack[ that does not work!!] & visa versa.If the [LEFT Output] stops working after u plug in the speakers,the internal RIGHT output is damaged. NEEDS TO BE TESTED
If nothing nothing changes.The left still works & the right still does not work, then it is the jack (shorted ?, opened internally ?)
The hum can be from the power supply not properly filtering, and or the output stage also has a short.
There is the chance that the speaker driver coil is now burned, or the power supply is now dead. If ther output stage is shorted and was putting DC on to the speaker cone, this will burn it very easily.
You should sent the unit out and have it serviced, unless you are properly trained, have the service and engineering manuals, and the test equipment to follow up on a proper repair and calibration.